How to cover/fill body holes?

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One of these days I want to pull off my flares, fill the holes in the fenders and where I removed the OEM roof rack, and do a "$50 paint job" on my 80. I've heard people talk about "foil tape" and LineX, but what is the BEST way to fill these little holes so they can be painted over and not look like they were ever there?

I assume welding, which I'm a little leary of because of concerns about warping etc, plus the fact that I can't do it myself. Is there any kind of putty type filler that would work well?

Thanks.
 
I am going to try JBweld. Ive heard on here that it works well.

fill the hole, grind it down and sand and prime.
 
One of these days I want to pull off my flares, fill the holes in the fenders and where I removed the OEM roof rack, and do a "$50 paint job" on my 80. I've heard people talk about "foil tape" and LineX, but what is the BEST way to fill these little holes so they can be painted over and not look like they were ever there?

I assume welding, which I'm a little leary of because of concerns about warping etc, plus the fact that I can't do it myself. Is there any kind of putty type filler that would work well?

Thanks.

what the factory uses and what the body shops use is 3m seam sealer . you just apply it like caulk on a house and spread it even with a little paint brush where you need it. it should be able to fill a tiny hole. or use good quality filler.
 
what the factory uses and what the body shops use is 3m seam sealer . you just apply it like caulk on a house and spread it even with a little paint brush where you need it. it should be able to fill a tiny hole. or use good quality filler.


This stuff?

Manufacturer 3M Automotive Mfg. Part # 08369

ULTRAPRO MSP WHITE SEAM SEALER TUBE. NET 10 FL OUNCES. MAY BE PAINTED SOON AFTER APPLICATION. GREAT FOR BODY JOINTS AND OVERLAPS. COMES IN FOIL BA


Or this stuff?

Manufacturer 3M Automotive Mfg. Part # 08500

ALL AROUND AUTOBODY SEALANT. SEALS INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR SEAMS AND JOINTS. 10 FL OUNCES IN A CAULK TYPE CARTRIDGE.
 
yea, it sounds like you have two different part # both being applicated differently.

we had the caulk type at the shop. both will work fine. personal preference.

yea we shot undercoating ( bed liner) I would have to say 15 - 20 mins after we applied that stuff.
 
have a mig? easy to fill holes but as suggested, little stuff might be filled with all the above. jb seems to work for lacy kind of holes. jim
 
old school body shops would use brazing rod ...its like soldering but stronger...they would "braze the holes" kinda easy to do...will burn the paint thou


yea good idea. that stuff is EXPENSIVE tho from what i have heard
 
The hot rod guys i know use a block of copper behind the hole and a mig welder. The weld will not stick to the copper but provides a bridge or backer to allow the weld to fill the hole.

GL

Ed
 
To make a copper "backer" to hold behind holes to be welded. Take a piece of copper tubing (dont steal it from your neighbors plumbing), hammer a good 6" section of it flat, fold it over and hammer it flat again.

The copper is pliable enough to shape to curved body panels. If it is too big, use tin snips to shape it.

I used this method when redoing the interior on my FJ55. Works great.

Hodag
 
Not being a good welder I used an aluminum drywall patch adhered to the inner fenders with a high strength epoxy then used a premium filler, sanding, more filler, more sanding and then self etching primer prior to coating with U-Pol bedliner.
U-Pol and Interior Recon 022.webp
U-Pol and Interior Recon 025.webp
U-Pol and Interior Recon 028.webp
 

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