How to bring a 1965 fj 45 Pick-up back to life.

[Hoosier 45]

I have the above vehicle that I bought back in about 1998, It came from Montana with surface rust and a few minor dings. I had a students father paint it and it turned out offel (a little better than a bruch but not much), I left for the Gulf war one days after.

When I got back, which was not alt later, as thing with the war went of quick,
I drove it around for 4-8 years around Indina, only in the summer as the salt here can be bad.

Around 2004 i was doing an under truck inspection and found a rust hole, so apart it came. We so did another child.

It is presently completly disasembled the sanbalsted frame leaning up against the inside of my garage, The cab, doors, windshield, seats and small parts are in ths chicken coop that is no longer in use(the fox fixed that for us). The axles are laying under the slightly sloped bed so as to keep things dry.

So were to begin to get this thing back to gether and looking good for my oldest daught to learn to drive in. She kind of has some history as I drove my expectin wife to the hospitial in it. My oldest would later fish from it while it was in the drive way, it kinda of goes on an on.

It had a chey 283 with a three speed that i traded for a niv 185 lb. anvil from about 1907. I have a stock 2f with a f speed sitting on an engine that ran 4-5 years ago.

Thanks all, I will wait for advice.
Martin

 

[1tontoy]

first advice

Try again with the 'above' pic

 

[2fpower]

One step at a time. Focus on the tree and not the woods, or it will seem daunting.

I would start with the frame and make a rolling chassis first. Especially if you are changing drivelines, because you will need to do much welding to the frame, and fitting and changes to the body.

Unless you are buckruso, plan on a solid year of evenings and weekends, and writing lots of checks.

Good luck, and just so we are clear..... post up pictures.

Cheers!

 

[Living in the Past]

One step at a time. Focus on the tree and not the woods, or it will seem daunting.

I would start with the frame and make a rolling chassis first. Especially if you are changing drivelines, because you will need to do much welding to the frame, and fitting and changes to the body.

Unless you are buckruso, plan on a solid year of evenings and weekends, and writing lots of checks.

Good luck, and just so we are clear..... post up pictures.

Cheers!

Curious why you would have to do a bunch of welding and changes to the body? Worst case you need to bolt the two front and passenger's rear motor mounts to go back to a F/2F. The tube crossmember behind the transfer case is a long way back compared to a FJ40 and is probably still there. Going from a three speed to a four is that big of a deal. Might fit with no mods. I put a four speed into my 1968 FJ40 with the stock transmission cover. Later switched to one from a 1976 because it was taller. Going back to stock with a four speed instead of the three speed is pretty simple compared to some of the builds going on in this section. I think one of the biggest problems is going to be souring parts that are no longer available. I picked my 45 up a couple of years earlier. At that time SOR still had the 4X4 emblem for the tailgate listed in their catalog. When I found out it was no longer available I ordered all the body mounts, weather stripping parts that were FJ45LP only.

First thing I would do is get the frame and axles together. But would also start a list of things your going to need and start trying to find them. Don't wait until you need them.

Here is a picture of my 65. Up until a month ago it sat outside. But I live in a dry desert which helps big time with rust problems. We need pictures of yours

 

[a.greenspan]

Here is a picture of my 65. Up until a month ago it sat outside. But I live in a dry desert which helps big time with rust problems. We need pictures of yours

Nice
but needs a 4x4 emblem ...

...it`s was missing on my 45 too, so I made my own

Cheers
Peter

 

[2fpower]

clarify

Curious why you would have to do a bunch of welding and changes to the body?

It was unclear in original post what engine he was going with, or what modification were done to frame that need to be reversed. As other op said, hard to tell without pics.

Also, my quote was welding to frame, and possible changes to body, which I was thinking of tunnel changes.

I respect your opinions living in the past, and I agree that he should start with making a rolling chassis (axles, frame, motor,etc) I was just trying to give this new member something more than "show us pictures."

 

[Living in the Past]

It was unclear in original post what engine he was going with, or what modification were done to frame that need to be reversed. As other op said, hard to tell without pics.

Also, my quote was welding to frame, and possible changes to body, which I was thinking of tunnel changes.

I respect your opinions living in the past, and I agree that he should start with making a rolling chassis (axles, frame, motor,etc) I was just trying to give this new member something more than "show us pictures."

And I guess I was trying to not scare the guy off by overwhelming him. I think carefully grinding more so than welding with PO mods. Will will have to wait for pictures to see what has to be done.

I believe it was me agreeing with you about the rolling chassis. You posted it first. I just added start finding your missing parts now instead of waiting until you need them.



"

 

[Hoosier 45]

OK as you can see from my post count I do not post much. I do visit this site often but I hate to type and I do not know all of the ins and outs of using the site.

My first real vehicle was a '77 fj40 back in about 1982. I drove it till it desolved and then took parts off of it for the fj45 (front axle and brake booster).

Sorry for the poor wording and spelling from last night (I did proof read it but I had taken some Lunesta about a half an hour earlier and as you can see, when they say right before bed they mean it).

I have some hard copy pic's from after the paint job in the 90's that I can try to scan and post.

My first question is should I use POR to paint the frame. I am not looking for a show quality truck but I want some thing that will look nice and last.

Next I want it to look near stock. The springs are stock 1965 so they should probably be replaced, but with what? How about the reversed shackle thing?

I teach HS machine shop so I have access to all of the good stuff, including CNC mills and lathes and the welding shop next door. We also have an auto body shop but I do not know the teacher well and am not sure if they take on "projects".

I have completely torn this truck to bare bones once for the first paint job but I have not had it down to bare bits before so this will be a different trip I am sure.

I sandblasted the frame about 3 years ago and it has been under cover the whole time. It has been exposed to the air so it is no longer "white".

I have a low mileage 2F out of a '77 FJ55 with the 4 speed on a stand and I have a PTO winch more or less complete off a 70 something fj55. I am just missing some linkage I think(three moves and another child in 10 years can fog the brain).

Thanks.

 

[a.greenspan]

Hard to asses your truck without pics.
To protect a blasted surface from new rust it`s important to protect it immediately with a primer, so if your frame has new rust blast it again or sand it.
If your springs are in a acceptable shape I wouldn`t buy new ones.
There are companies which repair springs.
Example:
Denver Spring & Suspension

Cheers
Peter

 

[Living in the Past]

As for rust issues I really don't have any comment. Living in Arizona it's pretty simple to keeping things from rusting just by keeping them clean.

On the springs I second just having them repaired. Re-arching is done by most any spring shop. I instaledl a lift on my FJ62 and hated it because of the stiff ride. I ended up just have my old springs re-arched and put them back on. Ever shp I called did it. I believe you will find the fronts springs are the same one as on the FJ40s up thru 7/80. So used is a easy option there. The backs I'm pretty sure are FJ45 only. Had a friend who thought he could use FJ55 springs but later found out they wouldn't find. If I'm wrong I hope someone will correct me.

 

[Hoosier 45]

I would guess just from looking, that my pick-up is in about the same shape as Living in the past's truck. Mine has a lot of spots of surface rust but only one rust hole about the size of a deck of cards and it is located on the bottom under the cab just rearward of the tranny hump.

The first question is what do people think of POR-15 for the frame and axle housings? I would be painting it in an attached garage that can be kept 55 - 60 deg. F.

 

[fhawk5]

I have a 1965 also and I do not have that "reflector" or whatever it is on the bed by the rear wheel ? My rear bumber is different also.

 

[Living in the Past]

I have a 1965 also and I do not have that "reflector" or whatever it is on the bed by the rear wheel ? My rear bumber is different also.

That is mine truck. The reflector nor the bumper are OEM. Probalby because it was a truck they got away without refectors and bumpers. The FJ25 and early FJ40 had US made reflectors put on when imported. Around 64 they changed to Koito reflectors made in Japan. Every bumper I've seen on the early FJ45 were after market. Confer made one about like the one on my truck.

 

[2fpower]

To address your POR 15 question, yes it is great on frames and on axles. Some folks do powdercoating on frame, but the majority of threads I read use POR15. I too used it on both of my frames, with good results. I brushed it on, and was happy with results, but the sprayed ones look nicer.

I always used the marine clean and acid product from POR, just cause I like to follow directions.

Anyway, I have not heard any negative remarks on it.

One issue with POR15 is that it cannot stand up to sunlight, so lots of people put their chassis saver on top of the por15 because it is UV stable.

I believe that rust bullet does not have this issue, but you should read up on it.

Cheers.