Im currently working on putting my front bib back together after some restoration. I noticed that the hinge, which is not attached to anything, is very stiff. I cant pivot it at all with my hands. Im concerned if I attach it all, bib, hinge, frame, back together, it could bend the sheet metal on the bib. How stiff is it meant to be, I don't see where it comes apart. Should I spray some silicone grease in there and see if that provides some relief, or is it a lost cause, and should I seek a new one?
How stiff should the bib hinge be?
- Thread starter krispy
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Warm up the metal add some Kroil.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
A heat gun and lubricant of your choice isn't a bad idea, but...
These things were never free like the door hinges, especially on the later models which weren't really designed to have the windshield dropped.
Pry the hinges into postion, as best you can estimate, and bolt the windshield back on.
These things were never free like the door hinges, especially on the later models which weren't really designed to have the windshield dropped.
Pry the hinges into postion, as best you can estimate, and bolt the windshield back on.
- Thread starter
- #4
I have some Kroil so I got that goin for me. When you say heat it up you mean with a torch or in an oven at 400 for 20 mins. I have a curing oven in my shop so thats easy to do.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Believe he’s talking about the single hinge attaching the bib to the body to access the radiator etc…
OP, start soaking it, Kroil, corrosion x, PB Blaster… whatever, it’ll loosen up.
It should rotate freely and shouldn't be stiff at all.
Once you are able to rotate the bib hinge the rectangular pivot can be lined up with a slot cut through the hinge allowing you to remove the bib without removing any fasteners, this is military specification back in the day and would allow expedited engine swaps while under fire.
Once you are able to rotate the bib hinge the rectangular pivot can be lined up with a slot cut through the hinge allowing you to remove the bib without removing any fasteners, this is military specification back in the day and would allow expedited engine swaps while under fire.
RevISK
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #8
Now im wondering if I misnamed the part. Im talking about this thing. It's not my photo, but it's descriptive.
You didn't state your year truck but my 01/72 build bib hinge is a two piece assembly.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Ah, so. Ignore the man behind the curtain.
RevISK
SILVER Star
You are correct, bib hinge.
The 78 hinges do not come apart like the early ones. Not sure when they changed. It should "hinge" freely tho.
That bib hinge was the same p/n 53107-90300 on my microfiche set for the period 03/69 to 07/80. Coincidentally, those are the same years my microfiche set covers for the US and Canadian markets.
RevISK
SILVER Star
My early 1980 one doesn’t.
Didn’t “hinge” until it drank many ounces of Corrosion X.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Now I want to look again…
See attached. I believe rust is going to be the biggest issue.
I stand corrected, I thought they changed in 78.
- Thread starter
- #18
Ya, so I let mine sit in Evapo-Rust overnight, I thought that would do the trick but no luck. Im going to try some heat and penetrating oil see if that loosen it up
RevISK
SILVER Star
I swear by Corrosion X in the red can. It has worked miracles for me.
But a torch and PB Blaster has done the trick as well. Good luck.
If its in the right position I dont understand why folks are trying to get it to move?
Its one part I wont be fussing with on my re-rebuild of my 76 and I definately wont be doing speed engine changes under enemy fire any time soon
Its one part I wont be fussing with on my re-rebuild of my 76 and I definately wont be doing speed engine changes under enemy fire any time soon
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