I am in Texas and am curious how often you guys are charging your AC's? I got mine done about 3 years ago and it is starting to lose of of the cooling....
how often do you charge your AC? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter citadel
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Never. You likely have an oring that is leaking. Easy fix (1hour) with $15 NAPA oring kit and $15 drier from NAPA also. The only two you can't get to are the orings in the expansion valve behind the dash.
My AC was empty so I replaced orings, pulled a vacuum, and charged it and mine is good as new.
My AC was empty so I replaced orings, pulled a vacuum, and charged it and mine is good as new.
I'll put my money on the schrader valves (you have 3), but what has been pointed out could be likely too. You can get the valves at O'reilly's in Austin. I fixed my bros leak not but a few weeks ago.
The answer is never though, you have a leak.
The answer is never though, you have a leak.
I agree and disagree. Never is bold statement. In a perfectly contained capsule sure. The fact that the system as numerous connections and valves leaves room for leak in any one area if not more. I have filled mine up once in 20k, I don't know the previous history. That was 8k ago when filled and still blowing cold as ever. I KNOW i have a leak but a slow one at that. Loss over a few months sure there is more of leak and issue that should be attended too. just my .02.
ive got said leak from the discharge to condenser (i think? the one behind the PS grill). got part numbers for o-ring kit and said drier? i asked the local napa here, but they're pretty useless when it comes to vehicles not sold here in canada. is the o-ring kit just a bunch of different o-rings? drier is universal?
thanks!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
My truck is 12 years old with 230k miles and the A/C system has never been serviced and still blows ice cold. It should continue that way until something fails. Anything from an o-ring to a schrader valve could go anytime but so far I'm good.
Any reason why he can't get to those behind the dash?
He can, it's just not as easy as the others.
Before I swapped my motor to another body, my system had not been touched in 16 years. Hasn't been touched after I converted to 134 either. You have leaks if you are low on freon. Deny it all you want, it doesn't make you any less wrong.
Before I swapped my motor to another body, my system had not been touched in 16 years. Hasn't been touched after I converted to 134 either. You have leaks if you are low on freon. Deny it all you want, it doesn't make you any less wrong.
- Thread starter
- #10
do you need to fix leaks before you recharge?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Er is this a trick question?
of course, these systems are not supposed to leak. (The one in my Accord was not touched in 15 years and still works great.) But naturally, the Orings will eventually degrade and you'll eventually start to lose out refrigerant. Likely just a matter of time.
Seems to me, though, that usually if one Oring starts to go, it's probably age-related (if nothing odd was done), so if you're going to empty the system any way, might as well change as many of the Orings as can be done relatively easily.
Seems to me, though, that usually if one Oring starts to go, it's probably age-related (if nothing odd was done), so if you're going to empty the system any way, might as well change as many of the Orings as can be done relatively easily.
A shop that services AC systems will put a dye in the system so that any leaks can be detected with UV light. There was an article in our local rag (well really more of a recurring ad) from a local shop about AC systems recently, and how they should be serviced every couple years.
Princess Auto (originally a mail order farm supply store up here) had some AC recharge kits on sale recently for something like around 50-60$. Apparently it's quite easy to do, so I've heard anyways.
Princess Auto (originally a mail order farm supply store up here) had some AC recharge kits on sale recently for something like around 50-60$. Apparently it's quite easy to do, so I've heard anyways.
...Is the o-ring kit just a bunch of different o-rings? drier is universal?
thanks!
The o rings are universal (get a kit) the drier is application specific to the 80 but cheap anyway.
- Thread starter
- #15
can the o rings be replaced easily? curious if there is a write up... I know zero about ac systems...
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Never is correct, the main reason leaks occur IMHO is the AC is that many people never use it in the winter, this allows seals to dry up, shrink and leak, always use the AC once or twice a month during the cold season even if for only five minutes as it really does help.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
There is a single bolt on each connector. The bolt puts pressure on the o ring to seal. Getting the correct torque is a little tricky but otherwise the operation is simple. Lube the o rings before installation.
The cruisers AC operates with the defrost setting as well as the AC setting. This should provide enough lubrication during the winter months if you use your defroster at all. ...might not be enough for you folks down South though. For me the leak was from road debris punching through the condenser.
The Santech part # for a 1993+ Landcruiser o-ring set is MT2580. Use mineral oil or silicone lube when installing the new o-rings. The drier is a Denso part # 478-0503. R134a in not a consumable, so in a perfect world, it would stay in the system forever. As has been pointed out, there are plenty of places for it to leak-including the compressor front seal. I'd service it as soon as I noticed it not cooling as well as it was.
- Thread starter
- #19
what is the verdict on servicing yourself vs taking it to an AC shop? Done most of the standard MUD mods and repairs - except head gasket 
not sure where this ranks for someone who has never tackled it....
not sure where this ranks for someone who has never tackled it....
To change an o ring you will need to have the system evacuated. EPA mandates that you cannot simply vent it to the environment etc blah. Then you can make the repairs. The o rings are easy to replace but getting to them is tough. I found that removing the front bumper was the easiest way to access the drier. The ones on the front of the condenser were fairly easy to get to. Once the repairs are made you need to attach vacuum gauges up to the high and low pressure ports and draw a vacuum for 20 minutes or so to evaporate any moisture that has found its way into the system. Once that is done you see if the system holds that vacuum for 20 minutes. If so you go on to charge it with the right amount of R12 (sorry I only have reference on the later R134 systems)
The gauges and vacuum can be bought for under $200 or less than $100 for a venturi-type vacuum that works off of your compressor at Harbor Frieght.
The gauges and vacuum can be bought for under $200 or less than $100 for a venturi-type vacuum that works off of your compressor at Harbor Frieght.
Last edited:
