How much to re do axles

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Joined
Jun 23, 2006
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Location
Charlotte North Carolina
my 77 fj40 is leaking like a champ, front being worse than rear. I know its pretty labor intensive. How much am i looking at for each axle to have the work done? I just dont have the tools or the know how to take on something that big? I would like to do it sometime before i saddle up for the GSMTR journey. I have some guys down here that do good work on 40's but i want to know how much to set aside for the repairs.
 
Use to be a guy in rockhill that worked on fair amount of 40's...pm mongo and see if he remembers.
 
Josh - I talked to Mark and Johnny down in Fort Mill about doing mine one time. I don't think we ever discussed price but they were capable to do the job.

I am going to have them do a few different things few me in the next few months.

Toyota Techs
2788 Hwy 21 Business
Fort Mill, SC 29715
803-548-2688
 
Thats who I was thinking of.
 
they are good guys...did their shop get moved when all those houses got built around them recently?

i'm from fort mill, but hadn't been back there in a while and all sorts of houses/developments/shopping malls had popped up all over it seemed when i was back there last week.
 
Yeah i was planning on taking it to mark and Johnny. They are def still down there. I was just trying to figure on how much i was going to blow thru when i went to pick it up. They are good guys and do great work. at least everytime i've been there they have.
 
We didn't get to my hub/axles during the December HAMOM. Sure would like to learn though, and there seems to be a great need.

Would be a good skill to have . . . . lots of money for labor.
 
Front axle rebuild was the first thing I tackled on mine. Just get in there and do it yourself. It's not hard. Might want to do your brakes at the same time. $ runner calipers are a nice upgrade at the same time if you run larger tires. I say take the money you would spend on labor and get an FSM, $35.00, a hub socket, $15.00, snap ring pliers, $15.00, and some loaded calipers, $120.00, new vented rotors, $50.00, and have at it. The rebuild kits are only like $165.00 with new wheel bearings.

So for $500.00 you could get some nice tools, an FSM, a serviced axle, upgraded brakes, and some good quality time with your rig. If you have kids get him greasy too. He will always remember it.

Jeremy
 
If you dont want to spring for the FSM you can print off the front axle section on birfield.com (Thats what I did, along with printing out articles on here and followed along.) Its not too bad just messy and take your time. I still need to go back into mine b/c I missed something.

DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY UNTIL YOU GET IT BACK TOGETHER. ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!!
 
In prep for the HAMOM, I bought the rebuild kit with inner axle seals and new wheel bearings from Marlin, already have the FSM ($85 from RHT), and a new set of brake pads. All I lack is confidence . . .

The part that really scares me is the cone washers . . . I hear that is a PITA and an art.
 
the cone washers aren't bad at all...

keep the nut on the stud but backed off a couple turns and then hit the stud with a brass drift. the cone washer will pop out after a few (or less...or more) hits. keeping the nut on there prevents the cone washer from flying across your garage.

my bro-in-law just turned and replaced the rotors on his 80 series, as well as repacking all the bearings and replacing the seals. i showed up when he was about 75% through with the job. he asked me, 'what are these crazy tapered washers? and how was i really supposed to get them off?', ha ha.
 
Cone washers are easy, I had to remove mine atleast 4 times during my build. Once they start to rise out of the arms a little, I would tap a flat head screw driver into the split. This would push them the rest of the way up and would stick to the tip of the screw driver preventing them from flying out. I hammer does wonders on this part of the job, a BFH. ;)

Jeremy
 
the cone washers aren't bad at all...

keep the nut on the stud but backed off a couple turns and then hit the stud with a brass drift. the cone washer will pop out after a few (or less...or more) hits. keeping the nut on there prevents the cone washer from flying across your garage.

Ditto
 
Thanks, and sorry for the hijack.

Malph, its good to hear from you again, and I enjoyed my bike trip through Tennessee in September. Saw a number of cruisers in Nashville, especially along music row. (Lots of 60's and 62's)

I was the only bicyclist stopping to take pictures of trucks!

I guess I need to just tear into it and hope for the best.
 
hey david,

sorry i never got back to you about that, i kind of dropped off the face of mud last semester...tough classes and too much time spent working in the lab will make you forget you have a land cruiser, ha ha. i do feel like a jerk though, i live maybe half a mile from there and chances are you rode thru my neighborhood.

i don't think you'll have much trouble, especially if you could get somebody to come hang out that's done it once or twice. also, it helps to know how to pack bearings properly so that you actually help instead of hurt your axle. a factory service manual will do wonders for you as well. don't think you can get by with a chiltons or haynes. those are okay for basic stuff, but when it comes down to it, an FSM is irreplaceable.

good luck, and maybe drive it to a HAMOM or something like that? or maybe the next club workday so you're not stealin somebody else's HAMOM time.


malphrus


ps - i'm not 100% sure which cruiser this is your talkin about, but look into gettin some of marlin crawler's new, better designed inner axle seals if it's 62series or earlier. i've only heard good things about them.
 
oh, great. upon rereading the thread, i realized you are having HAMOM soon, if not next, and you already have the marlin stuff. ha ha. well good.
 
cone washers are nto bad at all. Smack the fool out of the stud via BIG Hammer and brass drift. Leave nuts on to keep them from flyin. On the hubs just hit the hub just right and they come right off.
 

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