LCT
SILVER Star
Thanks!
How long did your factory suspension/shocks last on your GX470?
- Thread starter pcruz1
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@LCT - This is what it looked like once complete, at "normal" ride height (my airbags still work.)
I can report that the TRD OR shocks work awesome! I went out in the snow and BLM high desert here in Oregon this weekend and had a lot of fun. It wasn't muddy, but lots of rocks and dips and drops, it rode great and handled it with ease.
I can report that the TRD OR shocks work awesome! I went out in the snow and BLM high desert here in Oregon this weekend and had a lot of fun. It wasn't muddy, but lots of rocks and dips and drops, it rode great and handled it with ease.
LCT
SILVER Star
Looking good!
Bought brand new Tacoma OR take offs for $200 and the 9.8108G bushings you suggested. Was it a pain to put the bushings in? Did you replace the suspension yourself? I’ve done brakes and such but not suspension work before. So wondering if I should go the DIY route or take it a shop (~$300).
Also, any lights on the dash once you unplugged OEM shocks?
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201k all original. Drives fine.
I'm with these chaps. My 2008 w/174k-ish drives like a new truck. The soft and sport modes still show significant difference and I do not see any leaks. I'm also waiting on them to wear out so I can go ahead and use that as an excuse to replace with good off-road goodies.
I did replace it myself. It wasn't really that difficult - hardest part is dealing with potential rusted up or stuck bolts, especially the little allen screws holding in the control box for the electronic suspension up front. I think I found a walkthrough somewhere for the front, let me know if you need a quick once-over on how to get it done and I can type something up. The rear is super easy, just a few bolts after you get the wheels off.
I'd say the difficulty level is on par with replacing brakes, just takes longer because there's more to get in the way. It took me 4 hours to get the driver's side front one done, then 4 hours to do all the other 3, so I learned a few things along the way
This included a trip to the store to buy a new tie-rod end. Don't forget to soak your bolts in PB Blaster, ideally the night before, and it is definitely helpful to have ratcheting box-end wrenches for the strut-mount bolts. It's almost impossible to get to, but a real small allen wrench (4mm I think) is the right tool for the two screws holding in the control box for the electronic suspension. When you get the front ready to come out/ go back in, having a friend to push down on the lower control arm helps slide the old shock out and then the new shock in. Having two extra friends for the rear axle is helpful as you line it up, since both sides slide in at once - so having someone on each side to guide it in as you adjust the rear diff is helpful.For the rear bushings, I rented the bushing press kit from Autozone and then used it plus a shop vise to get them out. If you have access to a hydraulic press it will be even easier. Just find the right size metal sleeve in the bushing press kit to push them out, then use the right size metal sleeve to push the new one in. NOTE: the OEM bushing has a metal sleeve and a rubber bushing. When you replace it with the 9.8108G, you DO NOT need the metal sleeve. Just the bushing.
This video is a decently helpful walk-through for the front. The rear is mostly self-explanatory...jack it up, remove the wheels, disconnect the cable for the electronic shocks, remove the top nut, and gently bang out the bottom until it comes loose and drops out.
LCT
SILVER Star
Thanks a bunch! This is extremely helpful.I did replace it myself. It wasn't really that difficult - hardest part is dealing with potential rusted up or stuck bolts, especially the little allen screws holding in the control box for the electronic suspension up front. I think I found a walkthrough somewhere for the front, let me know if you need a quick once-over on how to get it done and I can type something up. The rear is super easy, just a few bolts after you get the wheels off.
I'd say the difficulty level is on par with replacing brakes, just takes longer because there's more to get in the way. It took me 4 hours to get the driver's side front one done, then 4 hours to do all the other 3, so I learned a few things along the way
For the rear bushings, I rented the bushing press kit from Autozone and then used it plus a shop vise to get them out. If you have access to a hydraulic press it will be even easier. Just find the right size metal sleeve in the bushing press kit to push them out, then use the right size metal sleeve to push the new one in. NOTE: the OEM bushing has a metal sleeve and a rubber bushing. When you replace it with the 9.8108G, you DO NOT need the metal sleeve. Just the bushing.
This video is a decently helpful walk-through for the front. The rear is mostly self-explanatory...jack it up, remove the wheels, disconnect the cable for the electronic shocks, remove the top nut, and gently bang out the bottom until it comes loose and drops out.
Mine was Lexus dealer maintained, even tires, until the bags and then air pump failed; Because of leaky bags.
We made it about 4mi offroad on a dry mud road, then we bottomed out. On the bumpstops and done.
Since I didnt want to damage the frame or whatever else might go when the bumpstops wear out and an offroad tow for a "Lexus" seemed worth its weight in gold to some towing companies, I had to ditch it.
Talk about a fun ride home, a fun wait for an aftermarket conversion kit, and a fun installation on the trail where Lexus/Toyota failed me for the first time.
Boy did that sting.
It was clear to me there and then that upgrades had to be made that Toyota Lexus couldn't provide.
A Monster was born!
GXOR or Bust, let's see what this thing can do...Really don't understand the folks saying theirs has umpteen thousand miles and 'rides fine'. I just replaced my 14 y.o. stock struts and shocks that had 75k miles and they were toast. There's virtually no way that stock suspension components are lasting 140k+ miles. Every single car I've purchased (and that's a lot) has gotten new shocks and struts and there has NEVER been a time that ride and handling haven't improved dramatically.
Honestly, "it rides fine" doesn't mean squat. Drive one with new suspension, and then drive yours...you'll feel the difference.
Honestly, "it rides fine" doesn't mean squat. Drive one with new suspension, and then drive yours...you'll feel the difference.
Running at 139K here and the GX drives great, although the P.O. replaced the rear shocks around a year ago, and there is some sagginess in the front.
FYI - I'm a suspension snob and have replaced struts/springs and other components in all of my vehicles the second they start getting sloppy and know how a worn suspension feels. The suspension in my GX is just fine, although I'm sure it would feel a bit tighter with new parts. However, it rides and drives good enough that I personally can't see dropping $3K plus for a lift (Ironman FCP, plus new LCA and RCA bushings, plus a coil conversion kit) at this time. The factory air-ride is also really nice for hauling stuff and the suspension adjustments still make a difference between comfort and sport. It will get a lift and new bushings, just not for another year or two (unless something breaks first).
FYI - I'm a suspension snob and have replaced struts/springs and other components in all of my vehicles the second they start getting sloppy and know how a worn suspension feels. The suspension in my GX is just fine, although I'm sure it would feel a bit tighter with new parts. However, it rides and drives good enough that I personally can't see dropping $3K plus for a lift (Ironman FCP, plus new LCA and RCA bushings, plus a coil conversion kit) at this time. The factory air-ride is also really nice for hauling stuff and the suspension adjustments still make a difference between comfort and sport. It will get a lift and new bushings, just not for another year or two (unless something breaks first).
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