how hard is it to swap axels on an 80 series?

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will have my new (to me) locked frt. and rear axels rebuilt and ready to install in my 80 soon. is it a simple disconnect and reconnect 2 banana job or is this something left for the pros?
 
Do it
 
Will the axles be complete down to every detail, or do some parts from your old axles need to be transferred over?

It's a simple job, but more labor intensive than it looks. It's a two person full day job. Two floor jacks and two jack stands required.
I never swapped a coil spring 80 axle. Maybe Carter or someone else that has can provide details.
 
Hard part is the steering rack... making sure the geometry doesn't change. Or just plan on getting an alignment done afterwards.

But Steve's got it pretty much... you also have to worry about the wiring and such since you're adding the electronic lockers now.

PS: test the lockers BEFORE YOU MOUNT THE NEW AXLE!!!

If you have a lift available it makes the job go faster for sure.
 
two floor jacks, two jack stands. two totally Complete and rebuilt axels with all the wiring needed. all day for two people really? when i did the frt lift and castor correction seemed like i was most of the way there a few more bolts and the whole damn axel would have been off. .. or not. thanks for the pointers/ advice guys. ill be sure to check & service the actuators prior to install. ill let you all know how it goes.
 
"While you're in there"...

consider replacing the bushings on the other parts of the control arms (front lower, rear upper and lower). It'll cost a bit o cash, but you probably won't ever have those parts off again.

Unless you do what I did to my rig...
 
I think he did that when he had the suspension done?
 
There are a few bushings. Most folks change out the front two on the lower control arm when they do a moderate lift - but ignore the rear one (as you're not required to change it). Last time I changed mine back to OEM (because I put plates in), the rear was pretty much gone - it had holes all the way thru the bushing.

On the rear, those are usually ignored. But since you're going to have to disconnect them anyway, it makes sense to buy the bushings, and have them handy. If they're in bad shape, cut them out and press in new ones. If they're still in good shape, return the parts.

You can also buy 'high flex parts' from Slee that change the bushings for one that allow the axle to flex more than OEM ones.

Basically while you've got the whole thing apart, change the bushings. There are other bushings on the panhard rods, anti-roll bars as well that are usually trash after 20 years or so ;)
 
more flex? yeh i bought the oem bushings already from when i installed the lift kit a month or so ago and skipped the bushing install as i was 6hrs into a 1.5 hr install job and decided to skip that part. with the axel swap though ill allow more time. thanks for the bush-ing reminder
 
Not hard at all it seems, 4 hours in and the new axle is almost in
 
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9 PM to 3 AM and the rear is almost done, fun times.
 
Matt got there a few before 9pm, we talked about where to start and bs for about 20min. then took our time and had fun with it..began cleaning up a lil around 2:15am. whats left? reinstall breaks, drive shaft & wheels. should be less than hour. total 6hs ish. not too shabby for 1st timers now to do the front axel !! thanks Matt for the help
 
How are those bushings in the control arms???
 
The one's that were in there will be fine for this rig's tire size/lift
 
Maybe so, but they're how old now? 20 years?

Time to change them while they're out. That's all I'm saying. It'll make a difference in handling.
 
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