How Does this PTO Winch Work

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gofast

gofast

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Hi All,

I'm curious if anyone out there has a manual for the the PTO winches ( English). My brake doesn't work and the driveshaft wont spin so I'm not sure if I've engaged it correctly or that it's hooped.

Comments welcome.

Cheers,

John
 
Maybe post some pics.

The brake is super strong.
If its broken you will be able to see. Usually the move easly.
Maybe try some penetrating oil on everything and give it a day.

If the shaft spins freely, you probably have a broken sheer pin (they break easly when old).
Technically very easy to change, but mine was a royal pain.
The pin is right where the drive shaft meets the winch (looks similar to a universal joint). If you can spin the shaft and the winch doesn't move its the pin.

For changing it. By free turning it, you can line the pin up. By moving the shaft aginst the part of the winch the spins, then turning the shaft you can move both.

Cheers,
Nick.
 
Thanks Nick,

I've found the shear pin and it looks like a bugger to remove and replace with my fat fingers. I appreciated the comment on the brake and checked with another friend as well and his is like mine. It seems our brakes are broken.

I'm gonna fiddle around with this and maybe take it apart. If anyone has any reference material for a tear down, I'd be grateful!

Cheers,

John
 
drill out the pin and replace it with an m6 cap screw and nut. grade 8.8 buy 3 and put them your glove box. they are much better.
 
Sounds like it the pin.

As for the break being broken on both rigs. I somehow doubt that. They are very strong. Dumb question, but when you go to move the break, do you pull up the knob before trying to move it? It should move freely, if not, perhaps the drum is under tension, or its slightly rusted. Try some oil on it to loosen it up. It should go.

Maybe try and post some pics. Do you see where the break is physically broken anywhere?

As for the pin:
I found that if lined everything up, I could use a small nail to drive what is left of the pin through. Lining it up however, turned out to be a pain. It will take some fiddling. As for drilling it out, sounds like a good idea. Just don't go to big. You still want it to be the weak point. As well as you don't want to overdrill the input shaft on the winch. But the idea of a grade 8 bolt is a good idea. You just don't want to much free play either.

Cheers,
Nick
 
Last edited:
As for a manual.
Birfield.com used to have one, but its down right now.
I will see if I can't find a digital copy and put it online for you.

Cheers,
N.

If anyone has it, please let me know.
I will supply FTP info so you can get it to me.
 
What brake are you talking about? I have seen and used maybe 100 Toyota PTO winches and the only brake on them is a small drag device intended to provide a limited frictional resistance. Just so the drum does not unwind while driving kind of thing.

Are you talking about engaging the winch drum to the shaft? If so this is not a brake and is frictional resistance through the worm drive and I am sure you will damage the gears before that moves.
 
If by brake you mean the freespool dog clutch assembly on the non drive end of the drum, these can be easily damaged if the cable loops off. Check the bottom arm of the yoke that actuates the dog clutch, these can get bent & jam up, the shaft that the lever pivots on can also bend.

It could just need a stripdown & lube, they are bad for seizing up if not used, I rebuilt my PTO winch & box before I fitted them, you don't really need a manual, it's not rocket science.

Cheers
Clint
 
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