How do I remove the panel around the glove box? Can't remove AC evaporator.

[yuji]

I have the typical AC water drain leak on the passenger side floor mats.

I'd like to check out this leaking box to see whether I can fix the seal, see the drain, etc., but I'm not sure how to remove the tan panel blocking access to the screws. It almost looks affixed /glued to the major dash trim piece that goes across the whole top.

Do I need to remove the plastic panels to the side of the seat?

 

[RobRed]

Before you do all that have you blown compressed air into the drain pipe (under the truck)? That can cause an overflow if blocked. Also remove the antenna relay box on the front - then you should be able to remove that faceplate to see what's what. Then eval the removal.

That structure is huge and goes into the center of the truck. Look at this for a diagram of the area Cabin Air Filter Install / Retrofit - TLC FAQ

You can download the FSM for directions on removing the panels. It's available from various sources including TLC FAQ - TLCFAQ Tech Library

 

[spressomon]

<snip> Before you do all that have you blown compressed air into the drain pipe (under the truck)? That can cause an overflow if blocked.

Adding to this: I ran a piece of wire (solid #14 from a romex bundle) with the insertion end taped over to reduce a chance of tearing the line from the bottom of the truck up the A/C evap drain line. Saved me from going further to eliminate the plugged drain/interior leak issue.

 

[APKhaos]

Adding more to this: If you really need to get the evaporator cover panel off, the FSM says remove the dashboard. Yes, the entire dashboard. Its a big job. My evaporator failed, and I had the replacement evaporator in hand when I discovered this little wrinkle.

WARNING: The following content may be unsuitable for sensitive Hundy owners
Removal of the evaporator cover and then the evaporator itself is blocked by the lower glovebox horizontal support. If you are careful you can cut the support about 2" to the right of the left side hinge screw position. Make a clean straight cut using a mini hacksaw with a fine tooth blade. The cover [and the evaporator if you need to] can now be removed with the rest of the dash in place.

I made a 2" x 1/8" aluminum plate with two tapped holes for 10/24 black finishing screws and added some epoxy to repair the cut. It turned out well, and this entire area is covered by the glovebox in any case. Its just not visible, and with the Al backing its a strong or stronger than before the deed was done. Not for everyone, but worked well for me and meant I didn't have to spend countless frustrating hours R&R'ing the entire dashboard.

BTW, I agree with spresso and others that you should be able to fix the drain problem without removing the evaporator cover. Be patient and work from the drain line end. You'll get it cleared.

 

[yuji]

Before you do all that have you blown compressed air into the drain pipe (under the truck)? That can cause an overflow if blocked. Also remove the antenna relay box on the front - then you should be able to remove that faceplate to see what's what. Then eval the removal.

That structure is huge and goes into the center of the truck. Look at this for a diagram of the area Cabin Air Filter Install / Retrofit - TLC FAQ

You can download the FSM for directions on removing the panels. It's available from various sources including TLC FAQ - TLCFAQ Tech Library

Thanks for the manual! I just downloaded it. This will be instrumental : )

I just noticed I don't even have a drain pipe - the AC is draining right out of the engine compartment wall. I will grab a pipe and try the compressed air and live with the leak until then.

I've put all the panels back in and will deal with a wet floot until I find myself a drain pipe that fits the exit channel and where I can more easily blow air up it.

Removing that evaporator plate is a HUGE process! I will definitely not do that until I'm completely flooded.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[RobRed]

Adding more to this: If you really need to get the evaporator cover panel off, the FSM says remove the dashboard. Yes, the entire dashboard. Its a big job. My evaporator failed, and I had the replacement evaporator in hand when I discovered this little wrinkle.

WHAT? Are we talking about the same thing here?

The Cooler Cover has 7-8 screws and can be removed. You could inspect the evap this way or retrofit a filter cover if you didnt have cabin filters.

The dash comes down for the whole cooler unit removal of course.

 

[yuji]

WHAT? Are we talking about the same thing here?

The Cooler Cover has 7-8 screws and can be removed. You could inspect the evap this way or retrofit a filter cover if you didnt have cabin filters.

The dash comes down for the whole cooler unit removal of course.

Ah, that's interesting.

I suppose the cover could be slid off to the right without removing the dash trim that's in the way if you could access the left most screw hidden by the dash (the thing pointed to in my pictures).

It's probably at 60-70 degrees and could be done!

 

[APKhaos]

WHAT? Are we talking about the same thing here?

The Cooler Cover has 7-8 screws and can be removed. You could inspect the evap this way or retrofit a filter cover if you didnt have cabin filters.

The dash comes down for the whole cooler unit removal of course.

You're right. The cover comes off with no drama. As I explained in my post, my evaporator had failed. The minor surgery created enough clearance to remove the evaporator and fit the new one. I can see how this was somewhat off-point when all yuji wanted was to pop the cover.

 

[RobRed]

You're right. The cover comes off with no drama. As I explained in my post, my evaporator had failed. The minor surgery created enough clearance to remove the evaporator and fit the new one. I can see how this was somewhat off-point when all yuji wanted was to pop the cover.

No worries I thought I had misunderstood.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

 

[Yoeddy1]

Hey guys,

I'm having the same exact drip as Yuji did. I have what I'm guessing is the drain that sticks out about an inch through the firewall. Is there a different drain under the truck that I should ensure is clear? If so, where is it? I'm assuming it is normal to have some condensation/water in the evap box when the A/C is running on a hot day, and it should drain through the firewall right? My problem is that it seems like the door isn't sealing to the box. I took all of the screws out popped the door a bit, and retightened the screws. Drip still occurs at the bottom of the door. Can I silicone the underside of the door? I can't figure out how to fix this.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Supra88]

I recommend getting some Permatex or Toyota FIPK and sealing the lower portion of the evaporator cover. The original oring/seal is not going to cut it.

 

[Yoeddy1]

I recommend getting some Permatex or Toyota FIPK and sealing the lower portion of the evaporator cover. The original oring/seal is not going to cut it.

Picked up some black Permatex today and sealed it up from the underside. Not a single drip. To be on the safe side I also blew out the drain tube coming out of the firewall. Water dripped steady through the drain tube. Not a single drip.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Jason