Houston to Denver Road Trip - First time in CO without snow

[radman]

Disclaimers:
1) This isn't meant to be a RTT discussion - I know some of you hate them
2) This will be our first trip to CO in the summer, and I've never been on any of the passes (closed during the winters)
3) I haven't really researched in any of my "Overlanding" groups yet, so apologies if I miss a lot of obvious stuff here.

However, I'm hoping to get some specific advice around the Denver and Summit County (and maybe New Mexico) areas.

Tentative plan is to leave Houston on a Friday or Saturday and head to Denver. I'll need to work Monday and Tuesday in Denver, but then I'm planning to head into the mountains Wed-Sunday. Then, head back to Denver for 1-2 days and begin heading home.

Possible RTT uses:
- 1 night on the way to Denver
- unsure if there's good park/forest within 2 hour drive of Denver for camping.
- unsure if there are any good passes in the Breck area. I've been wanting to hit the one from Ouray to Telluride, but I don't think i'll have time to go that far west on this trip.
- are the "passes" day trip activities or do people camp on them?
- On the way home, hit up Great Sand Dunes, Angel Fire, or White Sands? (Never been to any of these places).
- also on the way home: San Antonio Caverns, Hill Country, Six Flags?

Basically, I can take the RTT and maximize CO outdoor time or take the cargo box and make it a destination trip.

Bonus points: I'll need to find stuff for my wife and kids to do while i'm working 3-4 days in Denver. Are there safe areas or is the entire city a toilet bowl? backup plan is to send them to Estes park (or similar) YMCA and I'll find a way to meet them.

Thanks!

 

[fos373]

Denver is safe (enough).....

Sent you a text

 

[cryan]

Couple things,

- we usually camp at Trinidad lake state park on the way up from Austin and it’s pretty nice.
- Washington park, red rocks, and parks along bear creek road are fun to check out but close to the city.
- Boreas pass from Breck to como is a pretty scenic drive on dirt. Not technical but scenic. You can camp along this road in spots.

 

[BIC JET]

OK, I THINK ON THE WAY HOME YOU HAVE TO DO THE GREAT SAND DUNES. Sorry all caps, not yelling. The cool factor is to call the park service at he great Sand Dunes first. 719.378.6395. Find out how the river crossings are over Medano pass. There are a bunch of great camping spots on that route. So, after you spend some time with the kids walking up and sledding down the dunes, you just keep heading over the mountain (small, maybe 9,000 ft at tops) camp anywhere along the way. The campsites have a bear box and a BBQ grill. Very nice and follows a stream. There are 6-8 stream crossings, this is why you need to call first to be sure your vehicle will clear them all. Just Visit with the ranger on the phone. After you make the peak, the roadway is very easy to follow and will take you to Walsenberg right off of I-25. Not to bad at all but 4WD will be needed for sure.

 

[sadovnik]

While you're in Denver, I would definitely include Garden of the Gods as a must-see attraction. It's actually in Colorado Springs, but it's less than an hour away from Denver. There's some great off-roading not too far from there in the Pike National Forest. I always go to Rainbow Falls and Divide. Not too difficult but definitely fun. You can download the free COTREX app for maps of all the offroad trails. There's tons of dispersed camping all around that area. You may want to check out Pikes Peak while you're there too. The list of things to do goes on an on. Oh, and the city is not a toilet bowl at all, especially when compared to a certifiable sh*thole like Houston.

 

[bloc]

I don't have much to add to the RTT discussion but have done the same drive a couple dozen times at this point.. maybe some useful advice.

If you are driving all the way from houston you might be surprised how close ouray/silverton/telluride are to Denver. If you have the better part of a week to spend down there it should be looked at as an option.

When are you going? Imogene pass is likely the one you are thinking of from Ouray to Telluride, and it is spectacular, but not open yet. Other people in that area might have better info for this year but it can often be a mid july thing before it's open. Bushducks Colorado Pass Page - https://bushducks.com/tripreps/passopen.htm This site also allows users to post pass status.. with the popularity of the stuff out of silverton it is usually updated really quickly when those open.

Ophir pass is another great route from silverton and that drops you in south of telluride. Much easier than imogene, and quicker. But a good option if imogene isn't open yet, it is. Not to mention alpine loop, engineer pass (be wary of CR18 mineral creek rd down to 550.. it is doable but with the condition in a couple spots the last few years much of your family may not enjoy it) and so much more in that area.

Also.. you live in houston and are asking whether denver is a toilet?

 

[DenverLX]

Im just surprised that someone from Texas thinks Denver is a toilet bowl. Please tell all the other Texans so they will stop moving here.

Denver is a great city with tons to do. I recommend hanging out in Rino, going to rockies games, and enjoying some of the awesome restaurants around. Its fun to rent bikes and cruise around too. The Zoo and some of the museums are fun for kids. In the mountains there are many great places and passes to camp on. You can basically camp anywhere you want once you get into the backcountry. Lots of passes are old mining roads and are simple trails, others are not. I use trailsoffroad.com for beta on places. I spend a lot of time near Buena Vista, Leadville, Crested Butte, and aspen.

If you are planning on camping you need to plan on dispersed camping since all campsites seem to be booked up for the entire summer. If you are going to popular areas or areas that have easy roads then I would recommend getting there early. The amount of people camping this year is absolutely unbelievable. I have no idea where these people have come from but there are literally hundreds of people camped everywhere.

Bringing a regular tent is going to be useful if you camp in the same spot for more than a day that way you can hold down a spot. If you plan on a hotel or other rental, better book that as early as possible too, everything is booked it seems.

IMPORTANT: Bring a propane fire pit because we will be under full fire bans any minute now. Also please bring a portable toilet, or wag bags or something, there are far too many people these days and its gross if everyone just s***s everywhere. Feel free to message me if you need anymore details on places.

 

[1world1love]

Disclaimers:
1) This isn't meant to be a RTT discussion - I know some of you hate them
2) This will be our first trip to CO in the summer, and I've never been on any of the passes (closed during the winters)
3) I haven't really researched in any of my "Overlanding" groups yet, so apologies if I miss a lot of obvious stuff here.

However, I'm hoping to get some specific advice around the Denver and Summit County (and maybe New Mexico) areas.

Tentative plan is to leave Houston on a Friday or Saturday and head to Denver. I'll need to work Monday and Tuesday in Denver, but then I'm planning to head into the mountains Wed-Sunday. Then, head back to Denver for 1-2 days and begin heading home.

Possible RTT uses:
- 1 night on the way to Denver
- unsure if there's good park/forest within 2 hour drive of Denver for camping.
- unsure if there are any good passes in the Breck area. I've been wanting to hit the one from Ouray to Telluride, but I don't think i'll have time to go that far west on this trip.
- are the "passes" day trip activities or do people camp on them?
- On the way home, hit up Great Sand Dunes, Angel Fire, or White Sands? (Never been to any of these places).
- also on the way home: San Antonio Caverns, Hill Country, Six Flags?

Basically, I can take the RTT and maximize CO outdoor time or take the cargo box and make it a destination trip.

Bonus points: I'll need to find stuff for my wife and kids to do while i'm working 3-4 days in Denver. Are there safe areas or is the entire city a toilet bowl? backup plan is to send them to Estes park (or similar) YMCA and I'll find a way to meet them.

Thanks!

I have no advice on the RTT, but there are plenty of places to disperse camp within two hours of Denver.

I agree with DenverLX on the Leadville and Buena Vista areas. The drive over Tennessee pass is awesome and there are tons of places in WRNF to find some solitude. Hwy 24 south from I70 will take you past Mt Elbert and the Ivy League peaks. It’s just spectacular scenery.

Also, Denver is a great, beautiful city. I’m not sure why you would think it was unsafe or a toilet bowl. Especially coming from Houston. There are plenty of things that the kids would love there.

 

[doktorno]

I'm from Houston, just came back from Salida CO and Buena Vista for mountain biking trip. Recommend both. If you have kids mine still talk about the zoo in Colorado Springs.

 

[Tex68w]

Depending on when you go I'd spend your time doing the Alpine Loop over anything else out there. Of course this is all dependent on the dates you're heading out there, the taller passes usually aren't open until mid-late July and in some years depending on the snowfall it can be August before they clear them. I'm a bit of a RTT hater but I'd take it if you're planning to do any camping at all, it'll certainly make for a quick pitch option along the way or while there.

 

[mooneywa]

Don't forget Palo Duro Canyon just south of Amarillo. It's not halfway, but it puts you within half a day's drive from Denver.

 

[trudd]

Also.. you live in houston and are asking whether denver is a toilet?

I'm sorry, this made me laugh so hard. Also, most of my friends who are "from Houston" are really from Katy, Spring, etc. But I digress...

I'm not sure of your route back, but if you happen to head south on 522 in New Mexico (IE, through Taos), there are lots of great options along the way. I've been going to the area for 15+ years and only recently discovered St. Anthony Parish in Questa, NM. Carries a great story about a community taking the reins and rebuilding the collapsed church. Beautiful stained glass, very peaceful, on the edge of the Carson Nat'l Forest mountains. We make a point to take the kids to stretch our legs and enjoy a little silence, if that's your jam. We'll be up that way in a few weeks.

If you need camping recs near that area, send me a DM. I've got some spots.

 

[radman]

Also, Denver is a great, beautiful city. I’m not sure why you would think it was unsafe or a toilet bowl. Especially coming from Houston. There are plenty of things that the kids would love there.

Also.. you live in houston and are asking whether denver is a toilet?

Touché. Our experience with Denver (from this past January) is highlighted in the red path below. I should go back and pull the dash cam footage since my words won’t be able to accurately describe it, but it was honestly scary. Most of the buildings we passed in downtown were boarded up, there was a 200+ homeless camp across from the capitol, and we were approached several times while stopped at lights. I’m sure it was a combination of COVID, BLM, capitol riots, etc, but definitely want to find the nice “pockets” to send my wife/kids to while I work.

I’ll be working in the “tech center” (green circle) while in Denver.

As for “my Houston”, it’s a 5 mile radius bubble on the west side of town (memorial or city center, if you’re familiar with H). It’s glorious

 

[sadovnik]

Oooohhh, you mean you went past the State Capitol building the week leading up to the insurrection in DC and were surprised to see buildings boarded up and protesters everywhere? And you're judging Denver based on that week at that particular location? Interesting. I guess I could do the same and say that Houston is just a smelly, flooded city full of sandbags, boarded up buildings, and abandoned cars as far as the eye can see? I'm sure you're lots of fun at parties.

 

[radman]

Yes, sorry sorry.

Oooohhh, you mean you went past the State Capitol building the week leading up to the insurrection in DC and were surprised to see buildings boarded up and protesters everywhere? And you're judging Denver based on that week at that particular location? Interesting.

Yessss, sorry already
I’m an ignorant Texan that went off the grid for a month beginning after Christmas (except for mud!) and I can’t even tell you if we passed through Denver before or after the DC incident.
All I want to do is leave the Texas heat and spend lots of money in CO (and not get murdered). That’s all.

It looks like the RTT is going on the trip! I got the COTREX app, and now just need to hone in on a plan while leaving enough buffer to go off the beaten path on a whim. Maybe even cross paths with the mighty @tbisaacs …

My departure dates are semi-flexible. Could leave as early as 4th July weekend, but will wait until the 9-10 if that means missing the crowds.

 

[1world1love]

Touché. Our experience with Denver (from this past January) is highlighted in the red path below. I should go back and pull the dash cam footage since my words won’t be able to accurately describe it, but it was honestly scary. Most of the buildings we passed in downtown were boarded up, there was a 200+ homeless camp across from the capitol, and we were approached several times while stopped at lights. I’m sure it was a combination of COVID, BLM, capitol riots, etc, but definitely want to find the nice “pockets” to send my wife/kids to while I work.

I’ll be working in the “tech center” (green circle) while in Denver.

As for “my Houston”, it’s a 5 mile radius bubble on the west side of town (memorial or city center, if you’re familiar with H). It’s glorious

I definitely think this is a result of COVID. There are generally a lot more homeless people and simultaneously many fewer services available for them. Having driven across the US twice since the pandemic started, I can tell you that there are similar situations in every city of any size, not just places like SF and NY. I saw large homeless populations and lots of panhandling in places like Wichita, Paducah, Flagstaff, Albuquerque, Knoxville, Huntsville, etc. These aren’t major cities.

In any case, I definitely wouldn’t hold it against any city at this point. I think under normal circumstances, Denver has no more crime or homeless than any other similar sized cities and likely much less.

 

[sadovnik]

I don't know if you're on Facebook, but there are a bunch of user groups you might find useful:

Colorado Off Road Trail Reports
Overland Colorado
Dispersed Camping Colorado
Camping in Colorado

 

[1world1love]

Yes, sorry sorry.

Yessss, sorry already
I’m an ignorant Texan that went off the grid for a month beginning after Christmas (except for mud!) and I can’t even tell you if we passed through Denver before or after the DC incident.
All I want to do is leave the Texas heat and spend lots of money in CO (and not get murdered). That’s all.

It looks like the RTT is going on the trip! I got the COTREX app, and now just need to hone in on a plan while leaving enough buffer to go off the beaten path on a whim. Maybe even cross paths with the mighty @tbisaacs…

My departure dates are semi-flexible. Could leave as early as 4th July weekend, but will wait until the 9-10 if that means missing the crowds.

You’re good man. You are definitely not ignorant. No shame in asking questions trying to look out for your family.

I think if you already have the RTT on, no reason to take it off. while there is likely to be a lot of folks out in the wild, there are lots of places to camp if you are willing to go s little farther than the last guy, which you are well equipped for. Sounds like a great trip. Can’t wait to see pics.

 

[tbisaacs]

Maybe even cross paths with the mighty @tbisaacs…

Lets do this

 

[mcgaskins]

Simply looking at the data, Houston has more crime than Denver. There are a confluence of factors that have made Denver and most major cities more dangerous in the last couple of years, especially the last year. The same advice applies in any major urban area - don't leave valuables in sight when you leave your car, stay aware of your surroundings late at night, etc. etc. Denver is an incredible place for myriad reasons, but every single large US city has at least one sketchy area. You highlighted a stretch of Colfax above which has always been one of the most "interesting" areas in the whole state, so it is inaccurate to think a small area in the heart of the city is representative of an entire metro area of 3+ million people. I will say drivers have become unbelievably aggressive and reckless however especially on I-25 and I-225, so I would say that is your biggest risk factor. They actually target people with RTTs I hear...