- Thread starter
- #21
By the looks of the threads I have read I should install the probe at the collector in the manifold?
Is this right?
Thanks
Paul
Is this right?
Thanks
Paul
Hotter at 100KPH
- Thread starter Beast
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Added some guages, man does watching your exhaust temprature ever change your driving habits. My guage is in *C. Im guessing anything over 600*C is bad?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Beast said:
800ºF - 1200ºF right ..
I thought 600ºC is imposible ..
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Beast said:
That's getting up to the upper limit. 600C is about 1100-1200F which is about as high as you want to go.
- Thread starter
- #25
A couple of pics where I mounted the probe....too close to the head?
she looks pretty dry, do you oil her?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Beast said:
2H engine .. !!!!!!
The max temp that I attemp 1250 ºF in this exact point throtle out ..
Beast said:
You are not too close to the head, the closer the better as far as placement. with the temps as you mentioned you might want to check that the probe is not touching the exahust manifold.
Cheers,
Michael
- Thread starter
- #30
fitchik said:
Im at King and Keele, were gettin sewers now.......urban sprawl here on in...
I dont think the probe hits. I did check for clearance when installed with the down pipe out.
I will be oiling the beast..a. when she gets painted hopfully next week.
Beast said:
This is a great thread. I have an HJ60 as well and am having the same problem. I have changed out the fan clutch, boiled the rad, and changed the thermostat.
I have 33 BFG tires and a pretty hi gearing ratio at 4.88 (BTW I still have my 4.11 if you want em email me at longnow@gmail.com).
Please update what you find on EGT temp corrolating to engine temp...
- Thread starter
- #32
Turns out that the tires seem to be a a big factor in this problem. I finaly hooked up the temp guage using the factory sending unit rather than tapping in a new location. Turns out the water temp goes up to 260* under load (up hills) for a length of 30 seconds or more at 600*C with 35's. I did put a set of 31's on and did the same run. The truck did get up to 600* and the water temp alomost hit 260*(up hills) but it took longer to get to 600* with 31's than it did with the 35's.
Guess ill be investing in some gears or a turbo.
Thanks all
Paul
Guess ill be investing in some gears or a turbo.
Thanks all
Paul
I think that is an extremely high temp for the water.
I posted in the other thread, boiling on a 50/50 antifreeze water mix is 223 degrees F.
So your above boiling. Unless it is reading inaccurate you might start to warp things .
This is just an opinion. Heck I could be wrong. Just bells are going off in my wee head.
I posted in the other thread, boiling on a 50/50 antifreeze water mix is 223 degrees F.
So your above boiling. Unless it is reading inaccurate you might start to warp things .
This is just an opinion. Heck I could be wrong. Just bells are going off in my wee head.
- Thread starter
- #34
This is in *F if it makes a difference brownbear. I was told normal operating temp is 95-100*C which would work out to be 200-212*F. The truck runs at 220*F normaly. Where would be the best place to tap a new line for the sending unit?
Thanks
Paul
Thanks
Paul
she's running way to hot, if that is with a mechnical temp gauge, I have mine hooked unto the spot right on the thermostat housing, I never see it above 200.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I have factory 2H thermostad 82ºC .. and at 90ºC is hot . ! more than that is to hot for me.
brownbear said:
Wouldn't 223 the boiling temp at standard atmospheric pressure (1 atm)? Placing the same liquid in a closed system raises the boiling temperature above its normal point of boiling. If you're running a .08 or .09 bar rad cap, you're almost doubling the pressure over the standard atmosphering pressure, which probably explain why you could be at 260*F and still not boil over. [edit: after a bit of checking around, it looks like a 14 psi (about .09 bar I believe) rad cap will raise the boiling point by about 45*F over the bp at 1 atm - so 260 would still be less than boiling temp.]
Robin
Last edited:
Beast said:
Yes I was thinking in F.
Could also be your indicator(gauge) just isn't accurate. Do you know anyone who has an infared temp measuring gun? Could just get it up to temp and point it something in the system. Should give you an estimate if your gauge is accurate.
Could point with the closed system stuff. But I have seen guys who just use water show up at the gas station boiling over. And it is a closed system for them, so the boiling point should be higher too......
Things to think about.
brownbear said:
Fer sure...a closed system will still boil over...just at a higher temp than an open system.
Lord knows it's happened to me a few times in my short cruiser career.
Robin
iron_giant
SILVER Star
I'm still learning as I go but this might help a little. I recently adjusted my valves and found that they were very loose. After bringing them all back to spec the temperature of the truck dropped significantly. Mind you this is all on a stock gauge, but my 2h with similar mileage now never goes over half, and only reaches half under heavy loads. Before I adjusted the valves I was getting up to half and over on any small load. I am also running 33's and 3.73- makes for a very gutless ride. As stated above, with 35's I would definatlely regear to bring the 2h back into its massive power band. best.
