Builds Homer's 2003 GX470 Build 8.2 4.56 2.5 34s (2 Viewers)

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A couple of repairs…

I found my transfer case breather hose dangling. It disconnected off the nipple on the black actuator box.

Cut the tip f the hose, re-inserted into plastic nipple on TC actuator black box, zipped tied it.

Another repair was re-installing the FJTOYMAN rear shock guards/skids on my new to me 8.2” rear axle housing.

I only used one bolt because the 2nd bolt doesn’t line up. FJTOYMAN says that I need upgraded one, but I’m gonna run it with one bolt.

I red loctite it, torqued it to 90, and marked it with white oil pen.

Just in time to go to the Eastern Sierras near Bishop Cali
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Buttermilk Road near Bishop. My 8.2” elocked rear diff with 4.56 gears did great. Mild trail with some steep rutted hills…didn’t spin any wheels due to no front sway, nolathane hd (24mm) rear sway bar, 4.56 gears, and rear elocker.




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My suspension and armor setup

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Made a quick video on my 8.2” rear diff from a 2016 KDSS elocked 4Runner.

My 2003 GX470 is non kdss. And I wanted to keep my HD Nolathane 24mm rear sway bar.

 
Also, started hammering the pinch welds on the passenger side.

It got dark and I got tired…so I only finished one side.

Driver side soon. BMC next month! Getting ready for the 34s in 2025

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Continuing to make room for 34s in the rear…Blue Dog Designwerks minimal fender

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Ordered the hybrid front bumper from Restless Offroad Fabrication https://www.restlessoffroad.com/product-page/lexus-gx470-hybrid-front-bumper

In order to deal with cutting the wheel fender liner and exposing the windshield fluid bottle….

Ordered a windshield bottle relocation kit from Silver Rhino $42.50

Ordered parts for a DIY hidden short snorkel $50 that fits inside the stock fender from www.SiliconeIntakes.com

Ordered a rain sock $9 that repels water but lets air go thru from amazon

Metal mesh end cap for a 4” pipe to prevent rain sock (hydroshield) from being sucked in

I just ordered so these are not my installed photos but that’s what I’m going after

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Removed the stock windshield fluid bottle and installed the Silver Rhino Relocation Bottle Kit.

Unfortunately, there’s no hole for the smaller diameter (and 3rd) plug for the fluid level sensor.

You do need to disconnect the fluid floatation sensor to avoid the windshield fluid light from turning.

I would have preferred to disconnect the plug and line to the rear sprayer since I removed my rear windshield wiper.


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Got some used Dobinson C59-701Vs to be ready for when I add weight (tire swing out, maybe rear bumper, 34s)

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Really need to install the 701Vs…when the Mrs goes with me…I’m a little low in the rear…

Going dispersed camping south of Yosemite…


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My front end had a slight vibration at highway speeds between 60 and 70 mph. I rotated one side back to front, but that didn’t make a difference.

I was debating what to do. My 5.7 year old tires have 31k miles on them with some off-roading and bruises. Buy new tires or road force balance the old ones?

I took it to a tire shop near my house and they did the road force balance. The guy told me that 3 tires are way too high on the road force balance at like 60. I didn’t get a printout, and I have no clue what that means.

The worst part is this guy couldn’t tell me if the rims or the tires were the issue. I told him these were brand new AlphaEquipt Foxtrots and that Copilot/AI says these rims are not known for having issues balancing.

Anyways, I told him to road balance all 4 tires and he did. He also rotated the best two balanced tires to the front.

Lo and behold…it fixed my front end vibration. I drove on the freeway for 25 minutes at 60, 65, 70 mph and the vibration was gone.

I thought I would share. Also, here’s some images explaining what road force balance is and does.
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Images from this web site = Discount Tire | Tires and Wheels for Sale | Online & In-Person - https://www.discounttire.com/learn/road-force-balancing
 
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This thread has become my personal knowledge base!

I write things in here to remember when I did stuff or when I was researching stuff.

Ordered the Restless Offroad Fabrication front hybrid bumper which will weight about 150 lbs with a bull bar, hardware, lights, and powder coating. Ordered on 8/8/2024, so I expect it in Nov or Dec of this year.

In preparation for the bumper, I’m trying to figure out what circlip to go to. I want to end up with a 2.25” to 2.4” lift in the front.

I’m currently on the 3rd circlip from the bottom without the bumper. It measures 22” on the driver side and 22 1/4” on the passenger side. Driver side lean.

Copilot (Microsoft AI = ChatGPT4.0) says 150 lbs will lower these coils (700 lbf/in) by 0.21”

Copilot also gives different circlip to lift measurements than the Bilstein instructions. [update:..copilot is wrong on the circlip lift height increments…use Bilstein chart to figure out the circlip lift height increments at 0.3” for each circlip, but don’t use the Bilstein starting height listed for circlip 1. My circlip 3 from bottom = under 2” lift]

So, I’m still trying to figure out which circlip I will end up at, but I’m thinking 5th cicrclip on driver side and 4th circlip on passenger side.

I might have to install the bumper and then adjust the circlip. I was trying to do it before, but I’m gonna wait.

Anyways here’s my notes…

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Waiting for a friend to bring his spring compressors to raise the circlips on my HD 6112s.

Restless Offroad Front Bumper supposedly in powder coating….so maybe ready soon.

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And bought a preowned JW Offroad tire carrier….

Need to install that one too

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Noticed my original 2003 stock bushings for the rear links are falling apart, so… went for the upgrade! Got the matching pair of uppers and lowers.

And copilot (AI) agrees with some of the experts that I shouldn’t mix and match upgraded/flexible/extended links with factory stock links

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Noticed my original 2003 stock bushings for the rear links are falling apart, so… went for the upgrade! Got the matching pair of uppers and lowers.

And copilot (AI) agrees with some of the experts that I shouldn’t mix and match upgraded/flexible/extended links with factory stock links

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I have no evidence or measurements to confirm what copilot is saying with regards to the length of these extended Apache links, but I’ll do a side by side comparison with my stock rear links when I take them out.

I’ll also measure the center to center distance from the front hubs to the rear hubs to see if the rear axle gets pushed back any amount.
 
I’ve been asking copilot to help me write down and verify my notes. Here’s what we’ve come up with


Apache Offroad HD Rear Upper/Lower Links

These rear links are designed to:
1. Provide Maximum Protection Against Damage:
a. The Apache Offroad HD Rear Upper/Lower Links feature super thick tubes, thicker than most other rear links and rock sliders, providing exceptional strength to withstand hits from rocks.
b. Reinforcing the lower link mount points, such as using the eimKeith LLS bracket, is recommended to prevent twisting or damage to the mount points due to the stronger lower links.
2. Maximize Travel:
a. The offset design helps clear the gas tank and axle during extreme articulation with long travel rear shocks and springs.
b. The presence of a rear sway bar, especially a heavy-duty one like the Nolathane 24mm, can restrict travel.
3. Increase Rear Axle Articulation:
a. The joints are made from multiple durometers of polyurethane with free-floating sleeves, allowing for extreme articulation without binding.
b. The effectiveness of this feature may be reduced if a rear sway bar is used.
4. Correct Rear Axle Alignment for Lifted Trucks and Long Travel Applications:
a. The links are slightly longer (approximately 1/8") to push the axle back a bit, potentially improving pinion angle alignment for rear lifts between 2" and 3.5".
These statements align with the product descriptions and specifications provided by Apache Offroad.

Reasons for Upgrading Your Rear Links:

Aging OEM Bushings:
If your factory OEM bushings are old (e.g., original from a 2003 GX), they may be deteriorating, which can cause driveline vibrations.
Rock Crawling Preparation:
Planning to do some rock crawling in Moab, such as the trifecta? Upgrading to beefy rear lower links and adding the eimKeith LLS bracket will provide essential protection from rocks.
Enhanced Articulation:
Since the lower links articulate more with flex joint bushings, it’s important for the upper links to also articulate in unison. This reduces stress on mismatched joint bushings that don’t articulate as well. Therefore, it’s recommended to upgrade both the rear lower and upper links to ensure they have the same flex.
 
I'll be curious how much better you flex with those. The OEM links are, to be blunt, pretty whimpy! Probably why new ones are <$100 each :). I have yet to bend/break one but it seems totally plausible if you are wheeling in some rocks. It also seems easy enough to reinforce the OEM ones with some steel for quite cheap, but that certainly won't make the rig flex any better.
 
I'll be curious how much better you flex with those. The OEM links are, to be blunt, pretty whimpy! Probably why new ones are <$100 each :). I have yet to bend/break one but it seems totally plausible if you are wheeling in some rocks. It also seems easy enough to reinforce the OEM ones with some steel for quite cheap, but that certainly won't make the rig flex any better.
Yeah…I’ll see if I can provide feedback on how the rear upper/lower links change my articulation…if I can tell any difference.

Right now my factory rear links have 21.7 year old rubber bushings.

Also, I do see dobinson teal paint on my factory gas tank skid plate. So on the driver side…there’s some rubbing/binding with factory links and LT coils/shocks. I’m gonna clean that area to see if the paint returns with the new Apache Offroad links

I don’t see any other indication of things rubbing back there
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