Couldn't find one to buy so I made one...started with a plate of 6061 and made, what I think, is a much more protective transfer case skidplate. Check it out...
Homemade tcase skidplate completed
- Thread starter spressomon
- Start date
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I see it mounts to the crossmember like the stock plate but where / what did you attach the diagonal brace to?
cruisermaine said:
I'm guessing directly below the passenger seat.
(note to self, never ride along with spressomon)
LOL
Nice work, it looks like you got some skills!
That's nice lookin' man! Details please 
-t
-t
- Thread starter
- #5
The rear brace mounts to the crossmember just above and to the rear of the tcase. The crossmember is plenty stout, along with the rigid system, to take a pretty good hit...although that would be pretty unlikely given I am not a 'rock-crawler' (yet!). The stock plate is such a joke...it had to go. It is amazing no one offers these plates as aftermarket for the 100 series...
The aluminum plate was the most expensive portion...and people talk about how much steel prices have gone up
...anyway I have about $85 in the whole thing ...Thanks for the compliments.
Next, I want to start thinking about how to design the front plates. These will be more of a challenge given I only have a 4x6 metal bandsaw, drillpress and a MIG.
The aluminum plate was the most expensive portion...and people talk about how much steel prices have gone up
...anyway I have about $85 in the whole thing ...Thanks for the compliments. Next, I want to start thinking about how to design the front plates. These will be more of a challenge given I only have a 4x6 metal bandsaw, drillpress and a MIG.
Good work. I wasn't sure if the brace was secured to the frame but if it is this design is much stronger than the cantelevered stock item.
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
It's not G-Wagon, but it looks great!
- Thread starter
- #8
macneill said:
You just had to go and mention the G-Wagon didn't ya...
- Thread starter
- #9
cruisermaine said:
The rear brace mounts to the box section crossbrace that connects the frame rails just behind the rear tcase u-joint...totally solid.
Why did you choose aluminum over steel? What are your thoughts on aluminum "dragging" when scraping over rocks rather than "sliding" due to it being so soft comparatively? What thickness did you go with(looks like 3/16")?
- Thread starter
- #11
Josh, I went with 3/8" T6061 aluminum mainly because it is easier for me to cut with my little 4x6 bandsaw...even, at that, it took sometime to get it cut; although this plate is not that big I wanted something lighter too. Most of my off-roading is throughout northern nevada which, although you could certainly easily find good rocks to scrape, is more mundane. And last I now have the template so if the aluminum proves too soft even for my travels I can easily have a 1/4" steel plate waterjetted...
It's an experiment.
It's an experiment.
Good job, now find a rock and tell us how it holds up
Don't suppose there would be any cad info for this piece?
- Thread starter
- #14
Rrrrrrighhhhhhhttttt. The hardest part was figuring out the two different compound angles for the riser/support/brace.
