Homebrew fridge/stove slide combo
- Thread starter nickswan
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I'm so stealing your build! Turned out real nice, well done!
It's cool, I stole it from the original poster... Wish I would have spent the extra $ and got quality hardwood or hardwood ply, so consider that if you don't already have some stuff. I need the other half of the sheet to build a table for my camper, now I have to go wet it down and try to straighten it out.
Funny I do in fact have enough 3/4" maple ply left over from my drawer build which I hope to complete over the weekend so it works out perfectly, wasn't sure what to do with left over so your timing was perfect!
no offense intended- just an observation
Ratchet strap over the top of the cooler. There is potential for everything inside to go flying forward, and can be heavy when loaded.
String on the handles is probably not as secure as you might think. I'm being morbid, I guess, but just thinking about a worst case scenario
jmo, nice job on the sliders.
No offense taken. There's nothing in it so it's not going anywhere, just put in on there until I get my fridge back. (Plus it's nylon rope, not string 
) I may throw a ratchet over the top of the fridge, just not sure how the mounting points would work out. I could install some eye bolts on the slide base towards the seat side, it's blank on the last 8" since I used 22" slides. I would prefer to strap it down to the vehicle though.
I'm leery on how well the fridge will do loaded. I need to go jerk around on the slide real good and see how sturdy the actual slides are when it's closed. I really needed to use 28" slides. I was able to bolt through on the base slide, but not able to on the shelf the fridge rides on, only able to screw the track to the wood. Partly because I didn't think about it and also because the profile of the design won't allow for it. I would have needed to make enough space so that the table slide is not in the same plane as the fridge slide.
I may just put the fridge the SUV only when we need to use it versus full time. My kids ride in that vehicle and I'm definitely not going to risk it if I'm not sure about how secure the unit is. I needed to build this in order to learn what to do and what not to do. I have a feeling I'll probably build something better later on. I'm very confident I can build a heavy duty fridge slide, but not sure how to incorporate the sliding table and keep the low profile.
) I may throw a ratchet over the top of the fridge, just not sure how the mounting points would work out. I could install some eye bolts on the slide base towards the seat side, it's blank on the last 8" since I used 22" slides. I would prefer to strap it down to the vehicle though. I'm leery on how well the fridge will do loaded. I need to go jerk around on the slide real good and see how sturdy the actual slides are when it's closed. I really needed to use 28" slides. I was able to bolt through on the base slide, but not able to on the shelf the fridge rides on, only able to screw the track to the wood. Partly because I didn't think about it and also because the profile of the design won't allow for it. I would have needed to make enough space so that the table slide is not in the same plane as the fridge slide.
I may just put the fridge the SUV only when we need to use it versus full time. My kids ride in that vehicle and I'm definitely not going to risk it if I'm not sure about how secure the unit is. I needed to build this in order to learn what to do and what not to do. I have a feeling I'll probably build something better later on. I'm very confident I can build a heavy duty fridge slide, but not sure how to incorporate the sliding table and keep the low profile.
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aaronrules
Coolest person you know!
Man I need a slide for 63 QT monster! Going back, I would have got the smaller version even though we do fill this big guy up almost every time we go anywhere. I was thinking I would be concerned with clearance issues, but with a slide, you don't ever need to open the fridge while it is inside the vehicle. I might integrate this idea with my idea for a platform in the back.
I came across a photo on another post (courtesy of PerroBravo) that may solve the issue of keeping a low profile design and be able to bolt completely through the slides on the slide base and the slide top.
See bottom right corner.
I didn't think about putting the slides on the bottom of the table. This would give a little more room to move the main slide up and have room to bolt through on the inside portion of the slide. I'll incorporate this if I build a better unit.
See bottom right corner.
I didn't think about putting the slides on the bottom of the table. This would give a little more room to move the main slide up and have room to bolt through on the inside portion of the slide. I'll incorporate this if I build a better unit.
Here is my super cheap home made fridge slide.
I used rails off a computer server rack. Used existing bolt locations to fasten it to the floor.
Works well and I probably have $30 in it.
I used rails off a computer server rack. Used existing bolt locations to fasten it to the floor.
Works well and I probably have $30 in it.
Just remember that most slides aren't rated for being in that orientation, so you are not able to load them up much. It could be a significant reduction in capacity.
Dazrin is correct. If you try to run the rails laying down, it significantly reduces the amount of load they can handle.
Looks like he laid the slides down just for the coleman stove which might be OK but having a hot pan on that and maybe a kettle full of hot water I personally wouldn't take the chance myself.
Good point about the orientation and weight. And I just realized there would have to be a lower bottom on the fridge slide if the table was mounted that way. Probably scrap that idea.
I just like that table so darn much for some reason, but I really want to bolt through on the inner fridge slide also! May have to scrap the table if I build a heavier slide. I don't think I'll ever really NEED it as I probably won't go anywhere without my pop-up, which is setup to cook outside.
I just like that table so darn much for some reason, but I really want to bolt through on the inner fridge slide also! May have to scrap the table if I build a heavier slide. I don't think I'll ever really NEED it as I probably won't go anywhere without my pop-up, which is setup to cook outside.
I am not real clear what you mean by "through the slides", but if I am reading your previous statement right, this type of threaded insert / tee nut might help strengthen the connection to the wood and remain low profile while letting you bolt through the wood.
http://www.rockler.com/t-nut-for-3-4-thick-material-10-per-pack
^ thanks I'll check it out.
Sorry, I don't mean to confuse. It's not shown in my pictures, but on the outer most slide (part with bearings) I was able to bolt the slide to the side with 1.25" stainless bolts, all the way through the side. The inner portion of the slide (without bearings) , I was only able to fasten it with 3/4" #8 wood screws, due to clearance with the table slide on the other side of what I screwed into. I put as many screws in as there were holes . But I feel like it's a weak spot in the build ... if the truck were to ever get hit or flip, the fridge would probably break loose from there... Or the bolting points to the truck... Or anywhere with the crap wood I used.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm a beginner when it comes to building with wood. If I decide to tackle this again, or drawers with 500lb slides and better materials, the suggestions and experience help.
Sorry, I don't mean to confuse. It's not shown in my pictures, but on the outer most slide (part with bearings) I was able to bolt the slide to the side with 1.25" stainless bolts, all the way through the side. The inner portion of the slide (without bearings) , I was only able to fasten it with 3/4" #8 wood screws, due to clearance with the table slide on the other side of what I screwed into. I put as many screws in as there were holes . But I feel like it's a weak spot in the build ... if the truck were to ever get hit or flip, the fridge would probably break loose from there... Or the bolting points to the truck... Or anywhere with the crap wood I used.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm a beginner when it comes to building with wood. If I decide to tackle this again, or drawers with 500lb slides and better materials, the suggestions and experience help.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
I need to make 1 just like this for my Edgestar fridge & Rainier grill. Did 22" slides fit perfect for your 63qt Edgestar? I can't figure out how much extra length the slides need to be compared to how far they'll need to be slid open. Where in Tx. do you live?
If I had it to do again, I'd get at least 28" slides if it's for an edgestar 63. The clearances are very tight to get my fridge door open with the slide out. I'd go as long as you can on the slide base, it will also allow you to fit a bigger stove table. I live in the west DFW area.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Thanks. Yes it's for an Edgestar 63qt. If I get 28" slides that'll give me an actual 'working' area of 28"? I live just south of D/FW.
My slides are actually about 23.5" long collapsed and I get 24" of travel. (I believe they are labeled as 22" at lowes)
My slide base is 30-31" long, so I could easily fit 28" slides. You might have to check Amazon for anything over 22", the big box stores don't seem to carry bigger.