Home diesel engine replacement and possible clutch replacement too - any good guides on doing such? (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

Asking because it may become possible in about 2 months to have money to do something about the old original 1hz in my 80.

I've never tackled doing such a job and I realise it involves seperating the transfer and gearbox from the motor and either removing those as well or at least shifting them out of the way.

If I do that deep I want to address some issues with the 4-terrain clutch (like maybe remove it and get all new factory clutch components).

Can someone recommend some good guides preferably with plenty of pics?

Thanks.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You-tube. There's nothing you can't learn about on YouTube.
Try searching videos by OTRAMM. Not sure he has anything specifically related, but his videos are outstanding.

Its a pretty generic process whether diesel or petrol engine.

There's lots of threads here with good snippets of info.

Read the FSM. Print it, or save it to a tablet, smart phone etc.
Chassis and engine repair FSM are both in the resources section of the main ih8mud menu

Remove stuff that's in the way. Time spent clearing stuff out of the way to make access easier is time well spent. Things like air box, battery, battery box, radiator, radiator support.

Disconnect stuff that's connected.
Avoid opening closed systems. Brake lines, aircon lines etc

Search for how-to guides for individual systems that you'll be disrupting so you understand what you're getting tangle up in.

Label EVERYTHING!
Put nuts and bolts into LOTS of little zip lock bags and LABEL every bag clearly. it could be weeks or months before you put stuff back together.
Store bagged bolts and parts in an orderly fashion.

Leave the gearbox and transfer in the chassis. It's easier to mate the engine to the gearbox than it is to do the reverse, unless you have a vehicle hoist and transmission lifter.

Buy, borrow, hire tools. If you're on the fence over needing extra tools, get off the fence and don't be cheap! You'll need them!! And having the right tools for the job can save a lot of busted knuckles and swears! (Not to mention saving busted parts, stripped bolts etc)

 

[DivByZero]

I'll echo a lot of the above. Some things I'll add to:

-Take pictures. Pictures are your friend. I like to snap images of everything, even take some short video recordings too on my phone. Really helps to have a visual confirmation of how everything went together. Don't assume you can remember/find it in a video or picture online later.

-You'll need wobble extensions for your sockets. Ratcheting spanners, especially ones with flex heads, are a massive plus. You can make do with the non-ratcheting variety, just be prepared to have to make 200 turns on that one bolt you can only get 1/8th of a rotation out of, while contorting yourself into very awkward positions. What you save on tools, you might loose to the swear jar.

-Put your bolts back in! Rather than try and label 200 different peices of hardware, I find in many cases after detaching a part, you can put most/all the bolts back in, with the exact same bolts going back in the same holes with a little care. No need to put them all the way in, just hand spun in 1/2 the way. This'll save you time on reassembly, and make it much less likely you'll have "left overs".

-Engine crane, engine leveller, engine stand. These are things you should have. You can hire them or buy, pros and cons to each. Just remember, hire could get expensive if something goes wrong and a weekend job turns into a 2 week ordeal.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Agreed with above.

Pictures are priceless.
General pictures, plus more specific detailed pics of how something is assembled or connected.

 

[sunrk]

It seems I might not be doing the engine now, but clutch I think is still requiring some help.

can I a dumb question here? How does the factory clutch setup compare to the aftermarket ones?

If I'm probably not replacing the motor at this stage what is the best way to access the clutch for inspection and possible repairs or replacement?

Pull the engine anyway and leave the gbox and transfer in (supported obviously)? Or leave the engine in (supported) and pull the gbox and transfer?

I've never done any work with the clutch and paid a workshop to fit the 4terrain clutch to the 80 about 6 yrs ago.

 

[DivByZero]

Aftermarket is the way to go IMO. No idea about the 4terrain brand, but based on experience I'd happily use the heavy duty one from Exedy. Google tells me it's the Exedy TYK-6874HD. That's what's in my rig right now, and it's taken some abuse over the last 5 years since I had it fitted. I also paid to have mine done. At the time I was short on time, and my driveway was on a steep slope and not suitable for pulling a transmission. When I do it again, the plan would be to buy a transmission jack, pull the gearbox and transfer case, and leave the engine where it is. Much better going that route than pulling the engine. Also gives me a good chance to replace the oil seals on the transfer case which are leaking a bit.

 

[mudgudgeon]

My preference would be remove the gearbox, not the engine.

I'd plan to remove the flywheel and have it ground. It may take some time to find somewhere to grind it, make inquiries before pulling the gearbox.

You can remove the transfer case with the gearbox still in the car to make things more manageable. Although, when I've removed the gearbox, I've done it as one chunk.

I used an excedy clutch in my fzj80 recently, but haven't put enough miles on it to comment.
The throw out bearing they supplied didn't work, part number looked OK, but I had to source an OEM bearing with a longer sleeve on it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I think excedy clutch have a decent reputation.
They are a lot cheaper than OEM.

The OEM clutch I took out of my fzj80 was still in decent shape with about 250k/km on it. It was well worn but still had some life left in it, pressure plate seemed good.
If you don't need a heavier duty clutch, OEM is still a good option.

250k km from a clutch is pretty good. It would make the cost of OEM a bit easier to swallow.

 

[sunrk]

Luckily there's a local place in a nearby industrial area that does flywheel re-surfacing.

 

[Feistl]

Pulling the gearbox/transfer case out to replace the clutch is a bit of a painful job... I did one last saturday. took about 10 hours to remove the gearbox, change the flywheel/clutch, replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing, reassemble everything and test drive. That was done in the driveway in winter...

I've used 4Terrain clutches in a number of landcruisers, never had an issue. Exedy are generally pretty good as well...

Last time I got a flywheel machined it cost me $40... probably a bit more now given prices are insane everywhere... maybe $50-60?

What is actually wrong with your current clutch? I'd be driving it until it pretty much dies (starts slipping or the thrust bearing collapses) as changing them over is a big job.