Ho Do I remove the roof on the FJ40?

[berntd]

Hello all

After searching, I found that the roof has to come off to replace the gutter and leaky rivets. I want to start tomorrow on this project but I could not find any info on how to actually remove the roof.

Is there a trick or do I just have to remove all the bolts around the inside top rim and it will pop right off? How is it attached to the windscreen frame?

Kind regards
Bernt

 

[Robert LaDuke]

Yep.... remove all the bolts and it will come off. Some hidden ones over the doors too.

 

[Colorado Boy-74-FJ40]

Windshield frame has 4 10mm bolts holding it on. Better get about three guys to help you, It's friggin heavy!

 

[spdwaver]

Windshield frame has 4 10mm bolts holding it on. Better get about three guys to help you, It's friggin heavy!

x2

But, I had to install mine by myself last week. I removed the fiberglass cap then placed the sides (as one "U" section) onto the cruiser, then placed the cap atop the sides.

Here is how it went:

1. In my garage, I wrapped heavy gauge solid wire around the rib supports above the rafters. I do not think that using the rafters is a good idea (neither is my method, but it worked ), so I would suggest that you find something with good integrity to secure onto.

2. I made loops at the bottom end of each wire that would act as a noose on the poles. These loops were adjusted to about 5' high, so that it would clear the tub.

3. I placed the poles into the loops and placed the other end (the hatch side) on a ladder to level it out.

4. I drove the 40 under the "contraption" (for lack of a better word) and released the poles into the holes on the tub.

5. I then pulled forward and walked the top cap down the driveway ('down' being the operative word here) and onto the top.

It was not easy, but doable.

I imagine that you could do the reverse: take the wire (or rope, or whatever you have) and tie it around the poles that have been lifted slightly to clearance the wrap, and lift and tighten the 'noose' until the top is clear of the tub.

Hope this helps you.

 

[berntd]

Hi,

I ONLY want the fibreglass bit off, together with the gutter. Surely that is not so heavy?

Regards
Bernt

 

[PHAEDRUS]

I pulled mine myself once I unbolted from the sides and the door frames. Remember there are 2 10mm bolts on the upper portion of the windshield frame. I also unbolted the door cross pieces from the sides and windshield. one other person makes it a lot easier though.
Dave

 

[71cruiser71]

are you seperating the fiberglass from the rain gutter? just get a thin flat head screw driver and a hammer, they pop right off

 

[berntd]

Hi, thanks for that.

I want to remove the fibreglass roof and then seperate the gutter from it in the sections where it is rusted away. I will replace those sections.
Can I used normal pop rivets and manual hand rivet gun to put it all back or are theose special rivets?

How about small stainless steel screws and nuts instead of rivets?

Kind regards
Bernt

 

[antFJ]

yea - you don't have to have special rivets - and yea you can use little bolts too - just make sure you use something to seal it up.. seam sealer i think is what some people use on here.. as for taking the fiberglass top off you'll need someone else's advice.....

 

[71cruiser71]

I would like to see a pic of what little screws look like instead of rivits... seems a lot easier but it might look kind of cheezy. anyone have any pics of this??

 

[ducktapeguy]

The fiberglass part itself isn't that heavy (<40 lbs?), but it's large and akward to handle. Having two people make it much easier and less chance of damaging something. Unbolt everything, then stand in the tub and balance it on your head then walk it out.

The rivets they use are aluminum rivets that are rounded on both sides, it's not the regular pop rivets. CCOT sells them. You could probably use anything you want but it won't look as nice. I took a grinder w/flap wheel to flatten them, then just punched them out, it was really quick.

After looking at the cost and hassle of repairing the gutters and seals, i found out it was just easier to buy a new hardtop. If your gutter is in bad shape you may want to look into that route.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

After looking at the cost and hassle of repairing the gutters and seals, i found out it was just easier to buy a new hardtop. If your gutter is in bad shape you may want to look into that route.

I have steel raingutter kits. PM me.

 

[berntd]

Hello all,

I got the roof off ok. Many of the bolts either broke off or the nuts stayed behind as the gutter is completely gone. The rivets do just chisel off with a small cold chisel. I knoched the other half out with a suitable drift.
I have started fabricating the replacement parts for the gutter and the rear section is complete. I still have to do the 2 sides.

Heck, this roof is obviously not made to the precision I am used to with mercedes stuff I usually work on.
One could sum it up as "not a precision fit" or "fit for purpose"

I will used M3.5mm dome head screws instead of the rivets because
a) I can get them easily)
b) I can remove them if I ever need to
c) I need no special toold or skill to put them in.

Americans could use 6-32 screws instead. They will fit too but here, I could not find nuts for them

I don't care if it looks exactly right,
Important is that it will now have a waterproof roof with a complete and proper looking gutter instead of rust, tape and putty.


What comes in such a steel gutter kit as mentioned here?


Kind regards
Bernt

 

[gladly]

What comes in such a steel gutter kit as mentioned here?


Kind regards
Bernt

one example here:
Rain Gutter

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

The kit has 9 pieces that you weld together and a 10th piece that is riveted to the hardtop and attaches to the windshield. The quality is better than the CCOT kit, IMO.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

The kit has 9 pieces that you weld together and a 10th piece that is riveted to the hardtop and attaches to the windshield. The quality is better than the CCOT kit, IMO.

Hey Alex, they look pretty darn nice. Should be able to fit them to my old corrugated top panel, but my roof is still in VT Hopefully it will be home soon. HiJack Over.

Hey Bernt, if you have a minute, could you post some pictures of your work...we love pictures

 

[Living in the Past]

Hey Alex, they look pretty darn nice. Should be able to fit them to my old corrugated top panel, but my roof is still in VT Hopefully it will be home soon. HiJack Over.

Hey Bernt, if you have a minute, could you post some pictures of your work...we love pictures

Not as easy as you think Dean the piece across the windshield is different. The width of the windshield is a little different as long with the early top being longer. Back door is different too. Better than starting from scratch but still a lot of work.

John

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

That's what I meant...I see this kit as bringing me half way to being done. My other option was to make my own...we'll see.

 

[berntd]

Hey Bernt, if you have a minute, could you post some pictures of your work...we love pictures

Hello

More progress has been made. I now have the 4 side bits made.

I now have all the bits to finish it on the weekend. I will try for pics of before and after. I love pics too.

Those kits do not seem to have the strenthening braces in them across where the B pillar is. I think those are important because the seatbelt anchoring is in that vicinity.

They also don't seem to have the welded nuts but I suppose one could use normal M6 nuts and washers instead.

I am pondering what paint to use on the gutter and roof.
I am thinking POR15 for the gutter but that stuff does not stick well to new metal.

As for rivets, I have got some blind rivets that I will try. If not, I will still go with the 3.5mm screws as mentioned earlier.



Kind regards
BErnt

 

[mcwinery]

Hello, I just joined and this is my first post. I bought a 1969 (I think?) fj40. My fj40 sat since 1986 under cover but still has surface rust and major rust issue with the rain gutter. Part of it needs to be completely replaced and parts seem mostly surface rust issues. Anyone know where you could buy premade sections (vs entire kit) and weld in to existing gutter? Or anyone in Northern California want a job restoring my gutter?
George