HJ47 welcome here?

[Henry James the 47th]

Well, the best laid plans of mice and men...

I had planned to get the transfer case back together by noon and then move on to the priming. I woke up however to the sound of rain and rushed down to move my cab, which was in an exposed location. i got there after some rain had fallen on it, nothing too bad, and managed to get it under cover and with a heater to dry it out.

The floor of the painting area was partially flooded and the painter wasn't in a mood to paint with the high humidity and cold.

so, i moved on to dealing with the transfer case. I heated some water in a pot to just under boiling, and pushed the bearing race out of the main retainer. I then went and picked up the case halves from the cleaner. The front housing was pretty pockmarked, but no cracks or other damage was apparent.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I took the gear cluster on the transfer output shop over to the shop to use the press. before pushing the gears off, i had to remove a snap ring. The little needle bearing visible at the end of the shaft in picture three is the portion of the shaft that slips onto the front output shaft of the transfer.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Unfortunately, when the press off was done, it became obvious that the output shaft had been damaged, both from ham-handed repair in the past, as well as wear and tear. The fit of the main gear on the shaft was pretty sloppy, which would have made for a noisy transfer case when driving. So, a new shaft and new gear bushings are in order.

SOR wants $170 or so for the shaft, and another $39 for the bushings (!). Then I called the local Toyota dealer. The good news was that the parts were available and only a day or two away. The bad news: first of all, they wanted $424 for the shaft, and then the bushings were no longer available separately but had to be purchased along with the gears themselves, which were an astonishing $498 EACH.
Anyhow, then I turned to sourcing the part from Australia, where such things are made for the aftermarket, and I can get the shaft and bushings (only $9 for the bushings), plus shipping, for a little over $200, so that's the way I'll go. I have to wait another 10-14 days however, which throws my rebuild schedule into a mess.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

As a consolation, I fitted the front drive output shaft, along with new bearing and seal, to the front half of the split case. Then I fitted the seal that goes over the main output shaft of the transmission, the very same one that is infamous for failing, and allowing oil from the transfer case to pump into the transmission case. I'll see how it does - though I'm thinking it might be wise to leave the bypass hose in place as a back-up strategy.

Now that the transfer case condition has been made clear (like the rest of the truck bits I have dug into, the parts were heavily worn and no salvageable), i am thinking that the transmission is probably in pretty poor condition as well, but I'm hesitant to get into that right now.

Seems like momentum is a little slowed, but I can still keep working on it and move it along where i can.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more pictures to gawk at, if you so choose.

First a picture of the transfer case front half back into place.

Then I started in on the power steering lines. I had some lines from a 60 series kicking around, so I re-bent them, using heat, and cut them to fit as best I could. With the winch occupying the front of the bib, space was at a premium.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more power steering work. The fitting on the end of the hard line, though on a longer piece of rubber tube than i would think ideal, could actually be hooked right up to the pump, so i went with that, as it keeps the factory connections intact.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more shots of the high pressure line hook-up. I was surprised to find that the low pressure line at the vane pump (just visible in the 3rd pic below), was a 0.625" tube, not a metric size (!). I guess some power steering parts still cling to the old imperial measures for some reason.

 

[Mikesta]

You are an animal HJ.... cant wait to see it in paint!

 

[merbesfield]

Where did you learn how to do all this work and how do you get the time? I know the FSM helps but you are clearly past that. Great work.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Where did you learn how to do all this work and how do you get the time? I know the FSM helps but you are clearly past that. Great work.

I learn by doing it I guess. Making lots of mistakes mostly and spending more money and time than I ever first envisioned. Having a certain pressure to keep the project moving along, finishing what I started, etc.

Some things, like bodywork, I have had previous exposure to, and is in some key ways similar to my woodworking in the way you work with a surface, while the welding was pretty much a new skill to acquire. I read up on stuff, and frequently ask questions of those people out there who have knowledge of cruisers.

I was a bicycle mechanic for a few years, and I'm not too phased by working on bearings, races, gears, seals, cables, and the like. The truck stuff is simply bigger.

I learn a whole lot here on mud, no doubt about it, from numerous threads in various forums.

The time: right now I'm on it full time everyday. My productivity varies, despite all efforts on my part to be moving something ahead every day.

The first two pics show the oem handbrake cable (upper) and the aftermarket unit i had purchased from 4WheelAuto last year. Besides the obvious differences in quality between the oem cable and the aftermarket piece (oem=heavier metal end ferrule, sheathed wire, stouter and longer spring clip), the one 4Wheel sent me is shorter. As I suspected, they had sent me the part to suit a RHD vehicle, with, in relation to the parking brake drum, its marginally closer handbrake lever location. It's too late now to bother going back to them about it.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

first a pic of the pto shaft drive flange, and then a couple showing where i got to with the power steering. i realized that the 0.625" return line on the vane pump meant that it was low pressure, and that i could dispense with the metal line and run straight 5/8" hose from the pump to the reservoir. So that's what I did.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more power steering line install

 

[Henry James the 47th]

next set

on line will run in front of the bib, and one behind, in front of the radiator.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

the dust shields on the front brakes needed a slight trimming top and bottom to clear the 4Runner calipers.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

another three


painting will happen tonight, then bed liner as next step for both the inner fenders and the tub floor, both exterior underside and firewall, and interior floor.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

i had a factory a/c-specific rad frame kicking around that i decided to pull apart. It's not a wide enough rad frame to be from an HJ47 - i guess, given that it came from Australia, that it either came out of a late BJ42, or maybe an FJ45. I believe that power steering was available on the FJ45 in Australia, but not the HJ45/47, and i know that hte 47 was not offered with a/c, so maybe the fj45's could be had with a/c.(?)

To my surprise, when i pulled the shroud off the frame, I could see that the original finish for the shroud was CAD-plating, not black paint. I wonder if my truck's rad shroud originally came with a cad-plated finish, or if they were cad-plated and then painted black from new. Has anyone seen a new one, or a picture of a new one, say from a brochure with an engine bay picture?

 

[lostmarbles]

.....
To my surprise, when i pulled the shroud off the frame, I could see that the original finish for the shroud was CAD-plating, not black paint. I wonder if my truck's rad shroud originally came with a cad-plated finish, or if they were cad-plated and then painted black from new. Has anyone seen a new one, or a picture of a new one, say from a brochure with an engine bay picture?

The fan shroud on my Japan-assembled Australian-market BJ40 left the factory cadmium plated (it's now hot-dip galvanised) and I'm pretty sure all the NZ-assembled forties (supplied CKD ex-Japan) had cadmium-plated ones HJ.

 

[merbesfield]

"I learn a whole lot here on mud, no doubt about it, from numerous threads in various forums."

Here is a question, the green stuff on the bolt ends, I assume is thread lock. Did it come that what from the factory or what is it you use? Also, what is that black hub part?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

"I learn a whole lot here on mud, no doubt about it, from numerous threads in various forums."

Here is a question, the green stuff on the bolt ends, I assume is thread lock. Did it come that what from the factory or what is it you use? Also, what is that black hub part?

Yes, that's a threadlocking compound you see, and the bolts came that way from Toyota. The black part is the bearing retainer for the other end of the transfer output shaft, and also serves as the mounting point for the backing plate of the parking brake.

Tom wrote,

"The fan shroud on my Japan-assembled Australian-market BJ40 left the factory cadmium plated (it's now hot-dip galvanised) and I'm pretty sure all the NZ-assembled forties (supplied CKD ex-Japan) had cadmium-plated ones HJ."

That explains it. I imagine, since the cad plating is so thin, and would give way to surface rust on the shroud in a relatively short time, that many owners painted over them with black paint at some point. I think I'll leave mine black.

One of the jobs I took on today was re-configuring the pto drive shaft support bracket:

 

[Henry James the 47th]

next set