HJ47 welcome here?

[Henry James the 47th]

Personally, I would leave the ashtray. Mine is full of coins and little items. It is actually very good storage for small articles you don't want to rattle around or get lost in a cruiser. Plus, it is just part of the dash, it looks kind of out of place, and different, but that is just part of a cruiser dash.

Looks like the seatbelt and brake light will go back in above the tach and look alright. Then above the tach, I'd put the heater blower switch, the warm coolant valve thing and the cig lighter back in, and the recirculate cable. Blank off the lower line of holes.

Also you may want to leave a hole, with a factory blank in it for a light switch. A stock headlight switch would make a sweet switch for running 2-4 lights, such as fog lights/driving lights, or fog lights/utility lights, or rock lights or something. It would look stock, and operate multiple lights depending on which click you are in.

Just some ideas, dash looks awesome though. I've been trying to figure out a way to mount a tach nicely, the stock one looks good there.

Thanks for the great input! I have decided to keep the ashtray - I was thinking along your lines, about how nice it would be to have as much storage as possible and that it would be a good place for coins, ferry tickets, w.h.y.

The idea about keeping the stock double warning light (though I don't actually have one in my possession yet), gave me pause for thought, and I have to agree it makes a lot of sense. I think that's what I will do.

And your idea about keeping the stock light switch for use with other lights was a very good one - that's what I'm gonna do!

The cig lighter is something I'm trying to figure out a good solution for. The main use I would have for a cig lighter is as a 12v. power source, for charging cel phones, etc, and I'm thinking that the 'best' place for one would be in the glove box. I'll definitely put a lighted one in there, next to the other 12v. plug for the factory trouble light.

For some reason, it looks like my dash has cut-outs for two cig lighters (?!). I have seen two lighters on a German BJ42 dash and that looked pretty cleanly installed, so I'm wondering if it is some sort of factory option?

The question is: should i leave one cig lighter hole on the dash, and run two of them, or blank the hole off in the dash and just use the one in the glove compartment?

I managed another couple or three hours on the dash tonight, generally welding up the PO-installed holes, and repairing a spot where a welded nut holding the dash pad in place had been torn out wholesale.
I started with the holes about the combo warning light unit

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I think the battery in the camera is giving up the ghost as it doesn't hold a charge very long - this is the last pic I got before the unit shut off. I did a bunch more work on the dash, plugged another couple of holes and cleaned up the metal roll line along the right side of the instrument cluster.

I am also posting a picture from Buckrouseau's thread on his 45LV rebuild, and noticed that this early factory dash doesn't look a whole lot different than what I came up with, in terms of the way the raised field of the dash jogs down on the left side.

 

[MoCoNative]

I also noticed you had two lighter type holes. Not sure what that is about. I've never directly worked on a dash that new. My 73 is a little different. But, I would put a power socket in the glove box and one in the dash still. Even if you don't smoke, a lighter can be handy. Years ago, had a work truck, I was using a weed whipper, string trimmer, whatever you want to call it, and someone kept taking the pliers out of the truck seat I used to cut the line. I needed more line, so I got the lighter hot, and bent the plastic trimmer string and melted it in half pretty slick like. So the lighter itself may have hidden uses. Also I have run a spotlight, and small aircompressor from the cig lighter on the dash, more handy than reaching blindly into the glove box for a quick plugin. Especially if it is dark, it is hard to see in the box. A lighted socket would be awesome. I wired in an old liscense plate light into my glovebox and put it on the dome light switch. Of which in a 73 is in the dash. But truely haveing two power sources doesnt hurt, so much stuff runs that way no in a vehicle. Lights, MP3 players, GPS chargers, camera chargers, truely endless anymore.

There may possibly be an indicator light, air filter, glow plug or something like that, that will fit one of the cig lighter type cuttouts. My 73 has a brake light, that is a single bulb, that fits a hole very similar to the cig lighter, where your double warning is.

As far as getting a double warning, it shouldn't be too hard, try getting a used one, maybe SOR. They look neat and modern, will match your layout nicely I would think.

Looking good though, wish I had a 45, neat vehicles.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

"There may possibly be an indicator light, air filter, glow plug or something like that, that will fit one of the cig lighter type cuttouts. My 73 has a brake light, that is a single bulb, that fits a hole very similar to the cig lighter, where your double warning is."

In fact, I just noticed that the throttle cable on a HJ61VX fits to the same sort of hole on the dash - 15mm with a little cutout at the bottom. I'm going to see if I can make some use of the extra 'lighter' hole in that fashion.

I've been staring at a lot of different cruisers, and pulling parts, over the last few days. I've just raided a steering column and air filter can off of the HJ61VX, along with a couple of accessory switches, the accel. cable, throttle cable, and lotsa shiny nuts and bolts.

I have also come across three 40 series firewalls and assorted body parts out in the bush about 1/2-hour from where i live, and this has got me scheming about ways to drag the stuff back here. Thanks to this find, I can solve my dash layout problems, repair the shoddy work I did on the passenger side cowling, and glean a few more parts. One of the firewall sections has the floor (out of an FJ40), and the rubber plugs for the floor and inner rocker were miraculously still in place, so I scored those, along with a gas pedal in very good condition. More on that later.

Along with the firewalls in the bush, there is an FJ55 that i have been looking over carefully, and pulled a few parts for another 'mudder.

Then yesterdays I was up at the wreckers and pulling parts off of another Iron Pig, along with some accel. linkage from the same HJ60 that i scored the engine out of a couple of months back. and looking over all sorts of Toyota vehicles at the yard, comparing steering wheels, seats, and other things. I'm starting to get to know way too much about Toyota products! Oh well

Here's the deal with the accelerator cable situation: my truck, configured as it is with a 1986 2H engine and LHD, has no factory accel. cable option. I looked for a LHD HJ47 cable, but they are unobtainable, and besides wouldn't hook up directly since my engine has the injector pump made for the auto transmission, which has a different cable attachment.

The able attachment could be solved of course, but the main issue is finding a longish cable that will connect from the accel. pedal to the injector pump. I discovered that a BJ40/42 cable was long enough, and would attach at the peal end at least, but they are also obsolete from Toyota, and the cable end would still need modification. I've put out a wanted notice for this cable on the forum, but no luck so far.

Now, the HJ60 that I pulled the engine out of had an accel. cable of course, but that truck employed the system, seen on some (all?) FJ40's, whereby the accel. pedal has an extension arm that ges through the firewall, connects to a rod linkage, which connects to a pivot, which in turn connects to the cable. The RHD HJ61VX that I was pulling parts off of yesterday did not have this linkage, and instead used a cable that connects directly from the accel. pedal out to the engine. Unfortunately, this won't work for me because I have LHD, and thus the cable is too short.

The FJ40 firewall in the bush had a mint condition accel. pedal, still in the original cad plating. This pedal is for the linkage rod/pivot arrangement. I could make it work, I think, but off course it would mean chopping a section out of the footwell and grafting the section from the FJ40 firewall into place. I have a linkage rod out of the HJ60, which is twice as long as the FJ40 unit, so i would have options as to where the pivot could be located. If I could put the pivot in the right place, then I might be able to use the accel. cable that I got out of the HJ60. That would be ideal, as it connects perfectly at both ends. I just don't know whether it will be long enough, and if it isn't, whether there might be longer options that would work. The problem is I really need to have the engine back in place so I can mount the cab on and see how long a cable is needed from the injection pump to the firewall. I can't put the engine back until I have got the front end and differential redone, and that's not happening for a little while. in the meantime, the idea of chopping a section out of the floor and fitting in the FJ40 pedal, and then not having a workable result in the end, is not a path i want to go down without a lot of forethought and information.

So, the accel. cable is one irksome and complicated little matter that I need to figure out. I know that there are companies like push-pull in California that make custom cables, and that might be one answer, though I would like to try and do it with off-the-shelf Toyota parts (not to say that there will be any on the shelf at the dealer in the first place...).


Then there is the steering column. As I mentioned, I pulled a nice shiny one out of the HJ61VX yesterday. Surprisingly, considering how many options and gewgaws the truck had on it, the column was the basic, non-collapsible type, without the breakaway bolt arrangement. While that was disappointing, I figured I could make use of the tilt head, the signal arm/wiper arm unit, and the ignition lock. Diesel 40 series ignition locksets are obsolete, and the ignition lock and key I have so far is from a truck with over 400,000 km on it ,so it is all but worn out. I was happy to think that I was able to score an ignition barrel and key from a truck with only 133,000 km on it.

Well, there are happy thoughts, and then there is reality, which intrudes sometimes. When I got the column back to my truck, I discovered another difference in RHD/LHD vehicles: the indicator switches are reversed! On LHD, the indicator arm is on the left, and on RHD, it is on the right. The arms cannot be swapped around, nor can the unit be turned 180˚. The aluminum housing holding the ignition barrel and bearings for the upper steering shaft, are also unique to RHD/LHD.

So, I took the tilt heads completely apart on both columns i had, and re-built as best i could. I did this more than once. The ignition barrel out of the HJ61 does NOT fit in the BJ60 aluminum housing - the sprung locating pins are in different positions. Besides, the HJ61 had a Superglow system of some sort, and the ignition barrel arrangement is not what i was looking for, as i am not using superglow.

In the end, it looks like i spent pretty much all of yesterday getting very little actually accomplished, and all i really have to show for this new column is a few usable components, like the lower half of the plastic tilt head cover, and a few shiny bolts and metal bits. I coulda been welding all day, but no.

So, in the end, I may need to get yet another column(!). That's what I'm going hunting for this Sunday morning. Just call me "the column man"

 

[Henry James the 47th]

First pic compares the two indicator clusters.

The second and third pics are of the HJ61V air cleaner with optional dust canister.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

..my god, what have I done...


...well, I can now disassemble and reassemble a 60 tilt column head in my sleep now...

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Got some stuff accomplished today, though I had some frustrations with misplacing tools all day for some reason.

I swapped the steering shafts in the tilt heads, along with bearings, from the 61 series head onto my 60 series column head.

I need to locate a 1980~81 BJ60 ignition key cylinder, barrel and key, hopefully there's a new or excellent condition one out there somewhere.

i'll take the sections of steering shaft, the 60 upper and the 40 lower flanged unit, to the machine shop tomorrow. I'm thinking of getting a stepped sleeve made with weld access holes made to join them.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Did the first bit of work on the rear upper cab, sealing up 4 screw holes.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Then I worked on the hood/bonnet, to install the silencer retaining clip mounts and the stay catch.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Then I filled in the holes for the front catches, which will be moved an inch or so rearwards to clear the 70 series indicator lamps and the apron.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Then I made a tough decision and sacrificed a perfectly good, and somewhat rare, 61 series air cleaner assembly, to remove the neat bits: the debris collecting bucket and internal baffle to deflect incoming dust and rocks were installed on the air cleaner Irestored recently. The feature seems like a good idea, and it was installed on some BJ42's as well, from what I've heard, but is a pretty rare item and one I haven't managed to come across so far. I wonder if it was a factory option, and how much it cost to get it?

I could have sold that other air cleaner on Ebay for good money, but I only paid $10 for it, and it went to a good cause - Henry!

i needed to notch the corner of the mounting bracket to fit the lid of the dust bucket to the bottom of the air cleaner. I've put zinc weldable primer on the surfaces exposed.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Now, i really hope that the dust bucket doesn't interfere with anything else in the engine bay. I located it on the opposite side of the can from the air intake port, as was done on the original. I think it will fit in no problem actually.

Accessing the inner mounting foot of the baffle piece was not too good, so rather than drilling holes in the can, I elected to use JB weld to affix the baffle across the intake port hole. I've never used it before, and I guess we'll see how it does with the vibration when in service. I've heard it can work well.

I guess I'll be sanding the dust bucket after some grit blew on it after the first coat of enamel...

 

[MoCoNative]

I will say this on the accel cable settup. Trying to graft a bunch of pivot parts together to make it work will be a nightmare. The stock pivot arm systems are pretty neat. But alot of design went into making the pedal movement and rotations of the pivots and arm movements work just right. Trying to take various parts and make this all work out will be very tough, and will probably result as you already guessed, in failure.

I would try to find a cable, or have one made. That will be the simplest solution, I think. You need the engine in. Set the cab on before you paint and all of that anyways, to make sure you have all of the firewall correct. Then you can go from there on the accel issue.

The problems I faced with rigging up accel cables and linkage was getting enough movement of the carb parts in relation to the foot pedal.

For example, I'm running a 77 carb on a 73 1F. I had put a Holley carb on it, then went back to stockish carb. Problem was, I threw away my original accel cable hook up piece. So i rigged up a cable to run directly to the carb. But a 77 had linkage, while my 73 had a cable and then a crank arm. Well, I can barely get enough direct movement of the pedal, through the cable to the carb to get proper performance. I now have the parts to go back to a more stock settup. But bottom line, if you don't get the injector arm to move enough, or you are over moving it at full throttle lets say, you could damage the injector, or it won't run and or perform well.

 

[seapotato]

I messed around with pedals in mine when putting the 3b in the 45...basically the stock FJ pedal didn't have enough travel for the 3b throttle, I messed around for a while with a morse cable but in the end, gave up and just modified the firewall to take the bj40 pedal mechanism and I used the stock bj40 cable.

I think the alberta shop had those cables listed....?

cheers,
ryan

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Some great input there Moco and SeaP. I have had others suggesting that the cable from pedal to injection pump is the way to go, and I'm all for simple...so there is still the accelerator =cable availability problem.

The problem, however, may have just been solved: I found that SOR had a RHD FJ40 accel.cable, with a 10mm threaded end and the 2-bolt plastic flange mount. It's 45" long, so I'm thinking that it is a very likely possibility that it will work for me. It's part # 042-04Q by the way, and under $30.

SOR also had a used filter warning light available, so I snapped it up.

So, I got some more work in on the truck today. First off, here's the connecting sleeve I had machined up locally to connect the 40 and 60 steering shafts.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I drilled the sleeve across on both sections so I will be able to make sure I get good insertion and be able to get some weld in 2 sopts each end.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

2 more - the underside of the cab and all the welding that awaits, and the new souped-up air cleaner

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I started in on repairing the floor around the spot under the accel. pedal. I cut a chunk of curved sheet out from a 60 series inner fender section. Then it was wheeled off with the paint stripping disc.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

3 more

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I didn't get it finished tonight, but should complete it tomorrow. Shot some primer in there and that always makes things look so much better.