HJ47 welcome here?

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C'mon man, where's the pics :flipoff2:

Heh, I just wanna what use the final remnants of the poor ol' Crackwhore come too...( and yes, that's the name my Bj40 lived with for all those years I drove it....your 47 is tainted now....:grinpimp: )


cheers,
ryan
 
finally got some pics for ya..

The first couple shows the where the patched-in 1984 dash section in the RHD cab used to sit, along with the dah section itself. Still haven't decided how to use it, or whether to bother. The question is whether to hack into a perfectly good earlier dash for the sake of the digi-clock and the sedimenter warning light. It would also be left-right reversed from what it should be...another decision to make, but not immediately. The last picture is my sandblaster cabinet/pit area, where the chips are a flyin'
47 cab minus dash-small.webp
dash section-small.webp
bead blast cabinet-small.webp
 
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And here's the Sea P cab from the BJ42, showing the inside as well as the area where the firewall sheet panels turn in into the floor. There have been repairs to the main body mounts with studs welded to box section steel, and I'll be cutting that out and using the mounts on the existing RHD cab - which themselves need some repairs
sea potato cab-small.webp
passenger floor-small.webp
sea p cab floor-small.webp
 
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One difference in the two cab firewalls is the mount for the clutch - the Sea P. cab firewall has the older 3-bolt mounted clutch master, while the 47 has the 2-bolt. Either I will use the older clutch master (which I'd have to buy), or modify the wall to accept the new one. Another cab detail on the 47 is that the fuel evaporator unit is mounted externally on the back of the cab - see pic 3
42 firewall clutch-small.webp
47 firewall clutch mount-small.webp
fuel evap cover area-small.webp
 
Well, things are moving along somewhat. I took a bunch of panels to a local media blaster. He did the new cab firewall with copper slag media, which although is fine in my cabinet, with the pressures he was running turned out to be too abrasive for my liking and left a rougher surface than I wanted. Lotsa work ahead :mad:

After I expressed my concern, he switched to crushed glass media, which worked far better and left a fairly smooth surface.

I sprayed etching primer on as soon as he was done each piece, but ran out early as I had only 3 rattle cans. Took 2 cans to do the firewall alone.
sandblasted and primered firewall-small.webp
pile of blasted parts-small.webp
cleaned vac reservoir-small.webp
 
The roof turned out well, with only a couple of minor dents, and a patched area in one corner. Not sure what is under there yet, but will find out soon enough. The bonnet had a couple of major slabs of bondo on it, and when it was removed, all it turned out to be was a couple of shallow dents. WTF? why didn't the dude who did that sloppy work just use a dolly to bring the metal back up - or even a good whack with his hand to pop it back up? I don't get why people choose to take the hard road like that..
jan30 033-small.webp
roof panel bondo-small.webp
prinered bonnet-small.webp
 
As you might expect, the blasting revealed a few problem areas, like the middle of the cowl seam on the firewall. I'm seriously thinking of welding the entire seam up, since it is totally dependent upon the seam sealer, which eventually will fail. The cowl gets blasted by the sun and has all the water from the windscreen and bonnet running right to it.

Can anyone tell me why i shouldn't weld the whole seam up - or any seam for that matter?
jan30 032-small.webp
cowl issues-small.webp
 
Awesome progress!! The sandblasting sure does bring the problems out, but thats easily fixed! Keep up the awesome work! The pictures keep us all motivated on our own projects! :)
 
No new pics, but I have got a hold of a LHD steering box mount, and am planning to get the cab upper and lower sections blasted tomorrow. After that, I only have the doors to worry about as far as the strip-down goes.

I removed a pair of rivets on the chassis for accomodating the new steering box. I am thinking of getting a new gearbox housing and fitting the internals from a mini-truck box. I was seriously considering going to 60 series steering, but am a bit adverse to hacking away sections of the shock mounts, along wth the other mods required.

I've got a box of stuff together to take for zinc plating as well, probably next week.
 
I agree with not hacking it up and throwing in mini truck guts.

The heavey media sure can cause a pile of work, pays to use the right stuff or you will spend hours with 80 grit on a orbital.

We should meed some time, your right around the corner.

My biz partner lives minutes from you.

Rob



No new pics, but I have got a hold of a LHD steering box mount, and am planning to get the cab upper and lower sections blasted tomorrow. After that, I only have the doors to worry about as far as the strip-down goes.

I removed a pair of rivets on the chassis for accomodating the new steering box. I am thinking of getting a new gearbox housing and fitting the internals from a mini-truck box. I was seriously considering going to 60 series steering, but am a bit adverse to hacking away sections of the shock mounts, along wth the other mods required.

I've got a box of stuff together to take for zinc plating as well, probably next week.
 
I agree with not hacking it up and throwing in mini truck guts.

The heavey media sure can cause a pile of work, pays to use the right stuff or you will spend hours with 80 grit on a orbital.

We should meed some time, your right around the corner.

My biz partner lives minutes from you.

Rob
Hi Rob,

thanks for your comments.

Any chance you have a dead 2H kicking around? I'm looking for an oil pan.

I also PM'ed you the other day about the PTO units you have for sale. I've got a pto for my truck, but want a slightly different unit to match the split case transfer I will be installing.

The media blasting with the crushed glass went fine, so I will be having that applied tomorrow. Yeah, the other stuff they blasted with left me with a pile of work to do for sure.
 
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I posted pics of the winch on the for sale add, it would look great on your rig.

Same one i modified for the HZJ45, turned out great.

You only have to shorten thr rear shaft and the pillow blocks allow lots of clearance along the frame side.

No oil pans handy.
.

Hi Rob,

thanks for your comments.

Any chance you have a dead 2H kicking around? I'm looking for an oil pan.

I also PM'ed you the other day about the PTO units you have for sale. I've got a pto for my truck, but want a slightly different unit to match the split case transfer I will be installing.

The media blasting with the crushed glass went fine, so I will be having that applied tomorrow. Yeak, the other stuff left me with a pile of work to do for sure.
 
I posted pics of the winch on the for sale add, it would look great on your rig.

Same one i modified for the HZJ45, turned out great.

You only have to shorten thr rear shaft and the pillow blocks allow lots of clearance along the frame side.

No oil pans handy.
.
Thanks for the reply.

I checked out the pto pics you have, and they look identical what I have. I'm looking for the pto drive unit with output shafts front and rear.
 
Update

Well, I've lost access to a digital camera for the time being, so my apologies for no pics.

I moved the truck and all the zillions of parts to a new place ($50/month with power and air) and have pulled the engine/tranny out. The sandblaster guy is coming tomorrow and will blast the upper and lower cab sections. The chassis is in such nice shape that I don't think I will be blasting it, save maybe for the very front of the frame at the bumper.

Switching to LHD has added a few more complications:

-the steering damper bracket had to have its rivets cut and I will be moving it over to the other side of the crossmember
-I'm still acquiring heater parts....
-I realized I need a new throttle cable
-trying to decide whether to go with the doors with single glass, or the divided type with vent glass. I have both.
-the seat hinge levers need to be reversed. I'm hoping this is no biggie, but just in case I have a pair of 60 series seats that I can steal parts off of if need be.
-there is a lot more bondo than I thought, but underneath a lot of it is good metal. It was just piss-poor bodywork to tart the truck up. :mad:
-have acquired a LH steering box support and LH pivot arm assembly. I cut an inner chassis plate off a donor vehicle to mount the pivot arm to the other side and have cut the old plate out in preparation.
-the electrical will be a hassle, as I will have to tear the harness all apart again and figure out what has to go where. I'm not sure where to locate the voltage regulator, though I think it will need to go on the passenger side of the firewall. I'm still debating on whether to modify the dash to accept the '83~'84 dash insert, or modify it to accept the clock and triple warning light unit. I don't need the ashtray, so that would be a good spot to put the digiclock.
-I've disassembled the steering column and am getting a new bearing for it, and will be sandblasting the parts.
-am looking for a new windshield frame. Mine is a bit rusted, and everything is on the wrong side (the wipers and motor). I could repair and convert it, but I think it will be simpler to find a good used one.
-I really don't care for the stock turn signals, and am looking to either put 70 series units on, or early 40 series type.
-I've found a donor hood to take the hood support strut mounts off of, and will be looking to tackle that soon. The one on mine was ripped off completely.
-the stripped out bolt on the thermostat housing has been dealt with ( a good excuse to buy a 10x1.25mm tap).
-probably will be putting Toyo M-55 tires on, around 31~32" by 10"
-I decided against the H55F conversion, and will be keeping the stock H41 with split transfer.

I'll try and figure out the camera thing soon, as i know pictures are what people want!

Chris
 
Bad news today:

after putting a new diaphragm into the injector pump, and feeling pretty good about that, I suddenly focused on the side of the engine in behind and noticed a massive crack in the oil cooler cover plate, an aluminum jacket that runs the length of the engine block. Friggin' hell!! After taking the injector pump off I discovered a crack that ran for 14" :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::crybaby::crybaby::

I guess that would be one of the consequences of the p.o. not using anti-freeze, as the inner part of the oil cooler cover was quite eroded in places.

Well, learning lots, the hard way...I'm hoping it can be repaired at a local welding shop, and am checking into getting another one, new or used, from Australia.

The sandblaster guy couldn't make it today and has rescheduled for Saturday.
 
progress report...

Well, still no camera, but I've been putting in time every day on the truck so it is moving along a bit and i thought I could at least write about it.

-the severely cracked oil cooler cover (a.k.a. "water inlet cover): too much of a hassle and expense to get re-welded, so I located one in Australia. Unfortunately, when the seller went to remove it he forgot about one bolt, pried it off, and cracked it. Apparently, 2H engines commonly have issue with this cover and he has sold all the other ones he had. Anyway, managed, with help from 4WheelAuto, to find another cover in Australia and that is on the way.

- I've sandblasted and painted the exhaust manifold with high-temp. paint, and re-installed it today with new studs, washers and nuts. I have taken the push rod inspection covers off to clean and paint them.

-I've blasted and re-painted the crank pulley and reinstalled it with new bolts

-the sandblaster finally made it back after 2 no-shows, and now the doors, aprons, and main tub have all been blasted and primered. The doors are in great shape, except for the lower part of the passenger door, which is a bit rotten, so I am getting patch panels from CCOT for that.

-I've been stripping paint off the chassis with a paint removal abrasive disc (several of them, of course) and have been primering the chassis with rust kill primer and primer surfacer. Another session and it should be done, ready for finish painting.

-the steering box mounting has been installed on the left side - I used 3/8" bumper bolts, inserted front inside the chassis, then cutt the excess bolt threads off with the zip wheel..

-through help from some locals i have sourced all the parts for the heating system, including blower and main box. The box is in primer and will be repainted and then, thanks to a rebuild kit from Shane, will be brought back to hopefully near-new operating condition.

- pulled the full floater axles out and rear diff. Left side leaked, so the seal needs looking at. The gaskets were also missing from the axle caps, and I've orderered new ones, along with new third member mounting studs.

-spare tire holder/crosspiece has been blasted, primed and repainted and is ready to be reinstalled.

-steering box components have been blasted, primered, painted, and put back together, with new rubber bump stops, 60 series brake switch, and new bolts.

-vaccum reservoir tank is back together with the mount, all painted with a new brass plug installed. JIS and NPT threads are a bit different, so I elected to retap for NPT.

- factory power steering pump arrived from Australia, and its a really nice bomber unit. It is mounted to the right hand engine support strut (a unique piece which came included with the pump and pulley). I'm thinking of getting a new power steering case and having mini-truck guts put into it, though I may need to economize a tad and go with manual steering for the near-term.

- I scavanged some hood parts off another hood, and will soon weld in the mounts for the hood support rod and the silencer hold-down clips.

-pulled apart a 60 series axle for the disc hubs, and will tackle the install onto my drum brake front axle in the next week or so.

-trying to puzzle out the tachometer situation. The factory tach is made in such a way as to be easily viewable when looking at it from the left, but when looking at it from the right it is partially obscured by its cover plate. Besides, the only place in the dash I could put it interferes with the heater's side defrost port. Am wondering if I might need to go with an Autometer guage and sell the factory unit. Also, figuring out where to mount the digi-clock and triple warning light unit is leading to some further head scratching.

I will try to sort out a camera, either beg/borrow/steal, whatever, so I can get some pics posted up.


-Chris
 
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