DSB345
SILVER Star
Nice rig!
HJ45 flatdeck restoration
- Thread starter diogenese
- Start date
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Flash as a rat with a gold tooth!
- Thread starter
- #143
It is suposed to be Toyota Spring green T1028. I had to get it matched from a colour sample as I couldn't get it made up from the code.
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- #144
I've made up a new exhaust as I think the current muffler may have things nesting in it or it has just collapsed internally as it has very limited flow. It could barely hold top gear on the flat when I fist drove it. After a 20km trip to my work it had improved so I removed it.
The only thing left to do before getting it's Warrant of Fitness is to make and fit rear mud guards and flaps.
The only thing left to do before getting it's Warrant of Fitness is to make and fit rear mud guards and flaps.
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- #145
Took it for a WoF yesterday and it failed on brakes. It's all new and needs to bed in but I can't drive it without a wof, can't get a wof without driving it :grrr:
The waterpump bearing is buggered so I tried to find a new one locally and failed for after market so I tried toyota and it's obsolete but they had an arctic spec one on the shelf, bought it and I can't see any difference apart from the housing is cast iron instead of alloy.
The waterpump bearing is buggered so I tried to find a new one locally and failed for after market so I tried toyota and it's obsolete but they had an arctic spec one on the shelf, bought it and I can't see any difference apart from the housing is cast iron instead of alloy.
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- Thread starter
- #146
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I sympathise.
Without driving it heaps (and strangely enough... I've found "just leaving it sitting undriven" helps too - perhaps by giving all the drums a light patina of oxidation that helps even out the braking force that way?) ... it can be impossible (from my experience) to get left and right within 20% of each other unless luck is on your side.
Anyone with drums-all-round who has to undergo a "testing-station roadworthy check" should definitely do their best to avoid doing any brake replacement work immediately beforehand if ever they have that choice..
Here's me failing a testing-station-style brake check:
There was nothing at all wrong with those brakes in that they now pass perfectly without any further work having been done. (Just the passage of time has made the improvement in left-right-balance ... involving both driving the vehicle and leaving it sitting of course.)
Can't you just take it somewhere small (like a local garage) for this one so they won't have the big gauges to measure the braking force at each wheel individually? (I guess you can't because authorities have probably insisted on a more thorough test due to the time elapsed since your last WOF?)
As for your new water pump, I've never heard of the term "arctic" being used in any water pump description before. My ex-factory pump was cast iron but all replacements have been alloy. And a search on that part number (16100-49267) shows a standard pump for an HJ45 that was fitted by the factory from April 79 to July 1980.
Looking good for sure!
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- #148
Tom, it's not the brake force that is a problem but a soft pedal. If i adjust the brakes to get a decent pedal they drag. I have taken all the drums off and "adjusted" the high spots and I'm about to take it out again and bed them in again then hopefully I will get a pass. The only other problem was headlight adjustment but that may be my LED's but the tester did mention he has the same units in his landrover so I'm hoping a moment with a screwdriver will fix that. I will do it at the test to get them set on their tester, not my wall!
I just had a look on an EPC and it seems that the arctic and standard pump became the same after 1977 but pre 77 they were different part no's. It has just occurred to me that my truck didn't have a heater fitted so the original pump may not have had a casting for the heater hose. I took out a bung to fit in a hose tail but maybe the earlier pumps didn't have and the pump has been replaced before because it was sealed with silicone.
I just had a look on an EPC and it seems that the arctic and standard pump became the same after 1977 but pre 77 they were different part no's. It has just occurred to me that my truck didn't have a heater fitted so the original pump may not have had a casting for the heater hose. I took out a bung to fit in a hose tail but maybe the earlier pumps didn't have and the pump has been replaced before because it was sealed with silicone.
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- Thread starter
- #149
It's all legal and on the road 
I had the wheel cylinders out again and bench bled them, that got the pedal much better and good enough for the WoF man!
I've been driving it about all evening and it is remarkably slow
It will get to 75 kmh in third and about 80kmh in fourth . I think I will have to tweak the pump as it makes no smoke at all apart from some white when it is cold.
I had the wheel cylinders out again and bench bled them, that got the pedal much better and good enough for the WoF man!
I've been driving it about all evening and it is remarkably slow
It will get to 75 kmh in third and about 80kmh in fourth . I think I will have to tweak the pump as it makes no smoke at all apart from some white when it is cold.
Hey Ho there she goes. Congratulations!
- Thread starter
- #152
I was out enjoying the '45 even at a reduced pace of 80ish kmh when I got attacked by a piece of road grit, it turned my clean and shiny windscreen into a blizzard of glass cubes 
I had a chilly and drafty drive home and now I'm looking for a laminated screen to repace my fragmented toughened one.
At least it is just flat glass but I wanted to play this weekend for a change!
I had a chilly and drafty drive home and now I'm looking for a laminated screen to repace my fragmented toughened one.
At least it is just flat glass but I wanted to play this weekend for a change!
I was out enjoying the '45 even at a reduced pace of 80ish kmh when I got attacked by a piece of road grit, it turned my clean and shiny windscreen into a blizzard of glass cubes
I had a chilly and drafty drive home and now I'm looking for a laminated screen to repace my fragmented toughened one.
At least it is just flat glass but I wanted to play this weekend for a change!
Bugger!
I wonder why it is that these things choose to happen whenever you've just finished something and got it looking nice!
Commiserations...
- Thread starter
- #154
I've pulled the screen out of my mud truck and fitted that for now, it has stonechips and cracks but keeps the weather out I'll get a new one cut next week.
I've got out for a trip, just 60km's to lake hood for lunch. I'll take a leasurely drive back before ripping the govenor apart to attempt to get more than about 40hp.
I'll get a new one cut next week. I've got out for a trip, just 60km's to lake hood for lunch. I'll take a leasurely drive back before ripping the govenor apart to attempt to get more than about 40hp.
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- #155
I've got to the bottom of my fuel issue, it turned out the transfer pump wasn't pumping!
The plunger had stuck in so it wasn't following the cam so no fuel pressure. the engine still ran with the injector pump elements pulling in their own fuel but as soon as the was a greater demand then the couldn't get enough to fill the pumping chamber so no more fuel was delivered. With it all freed off it goes much better
I was almost about to pull the engine and fit a 2H but I think I'll leave it with the H now. I will try to fit the 5 speed with a pto that I have but only if it will fit onto the H bellhousing as I don't want to mess with the engine mountings. If I have to fit the extra crossmember to get the box to fit then I might as well go for the 2H swap at the same time.
The plunger had stuck in so it wasn't following the cam so no fuel pressure. the engine still ran with the injector pump elements pulling in their own fuel but as soon as the was a greater demand then the couldn't get enough to fill the pumping chamber so no more fuel was delivered. With it all freed off it goes much better
I was almost about to pull the engine and fit a 2H but I think I'll leave it with the H now. I will try to fit the 5 speed with a pto that I have but only if it will fit onto the H bellhousing as I don't want to mess with the engine mountings. If I have to fit the extra crossmember to get the box to fit then I might as well go for the 2H swap at the same time.
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I've got to the bottom of my fuel issue, it turned out the transfer pump wasn't pumping!
The plunger had stuck in so it wasn't following the cam so no fuel pressure. the engine still ran with the injector pump elements pulling in their own fuel but as soon as the was a greater demand then the couldn't get enough to fill the pumping chamber so no more fuel was delivered. With it all freed off it goes much better
I was almost about to pull the engine and fit a 2H but I think I'll leave it with the H now. I will try to fit the 5 speed with a pto that I have but only if it will fit onto the H bellhousing as I don't want to mess with the engine mountings. If I have to fit the extra crossmember to get the box to fit then I might as well go for the 2H swap at the same time.
I must try and remember this for anyone else who gets a "low power output problem".
I guess the plunger/cam-follower (in the fuel pump) was sticking due to the engine being left unused for a long period. (Perhaps a little bit of corrosion set in or the oil "gummed it up". - Think clearances are very tight in there.)
Thanks for sharing..
- Thread starter
- #157
You are right Tom, there are no seals it is just tight tolerance fit. It was just gum holding it stuck in, a quick blast of brake clean got things moving
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- #158
I have spent the afternoon replacing door catches. I have used the cheaper kit rather than OEM and I'd like to share my thoughts.
The price difference is pretty massive, I paid au$120 for two kits with outer handles, internal mechanism and catches. The toyota parts were NZ$250 for one catch!
My doors have had a bit of "treatment" and seem to be a bit thinner than they were made as the outer skin has been pushed in a bit, only a few mm though but it has made a difference. The connection between the lock and outer handle just touches the outer skin but with the new units this part was a fair bit wider and had no chance of working without pushing out the door skin by a considerable amount, I would have thought it would be tight on any door.
I have cut off the part from the new lock and fitted a modified original link and adjuster the door handle end as well. I took a lot of trial fitting but I don't regret it as the end result is doors that are a joy to use even with the thick new weatherstrip. I think a few pictures will explain the modified parts better.
Different offset on bolt hole
Different offset on link
Adjusted link.
How I swapped the link with the original, there is only downward force on the link so the end can stay open with no operational effect.
The price difference is pretty massive, I paid au$120 for two kits with outer handles, internal mechanism and catches. The toyota parts were NZ$250 for one catch!
My doors have had a bit of "treatment" and seem to be a bit thinner than they were made as the outer skin has been pushed in a bit, only a few mm though but it has made a difference. The connection between the lock and outer handle just touches the outer skin but with the new units this part was a fair bit wider and had no chance of working without pushing out the door skin by a considerable amount, I would have thought it would be tight on any door.
I have cut off the part from the new lock and fitted a modified original link and adjuster the door handle end as well. I took a lot of trial fitting but I don't regret it as the end result is doors that are a joy to use even with the thick new weatherstrip. I think a few pictures will explain the modified parts better.
Different offset on bolt hole
Different offset on link
Adjusted link.
How I swapped the link with the original, there is only downward force on the link so the end can stay open with no operational effect.
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- Thread starter
- #159
Now I have driven it for a while and decided not to fit power steering or swap to a 2H the next most pressing requirement is a cup holder! I couldn't fit a modern plastic one so I made my own from 6mm steel rod. The big question is now what colour to paint it?
That is so cool! You could sell them. I want one. I would Plastidip it and stick a little rubber cap on the end.
Nice-nice.
Nice-nice.
