Highway driving during break in miles

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I knew somebody will go after me for writing that, and member Madriger was the most likely candidate ;)

Maybe overkill, but there is no downside, either, so if that makes me feel better, why not, right?
Diffs no drawback, but for the engine there are common rumors that manufacturers use “break in” oils for their first fill that help rings seat and establish a good baseline, compared to the ultra slick synthetics used thereafter. Info may have come out to dispute this, and bobistheoilguy.com would be the likely place, but personally I’d stick to what Toyota recommends. It’s not like their engines have a record of wearing out early when using the book procedures.
 
Diffs no drawback, but for the engine there are common rumors that manufacturers use “break in” oils for their first fill that help rings seat and establish a good baseline, compared to the ultra slick synthetics used thereafter. Info may have come out to dispute this, and bobistheoilguy.com would be the likely place, but personally I’d stick to what Toyota recommends. It’s not like their engines have a record of wearing out early when using the book procedures.
Man, picking up my new LC and have a 900 mile drive..... I guess I’m not taking the expressway ?
 
Diffs no drawback, but for the engine there are common rumors that manufacturers use “break in” oils for their first fill that help rings seat and establish a good baseline, compared to the ultra slick synthetics used thereafter. Info may have come out to dispute this, and bobistheoilguy.com would be the likely place, but personally I’d stick to what Toyota recommends. It’s not like their engines have a record of wearing out early when using the book procedures.

Re engine oil, fair point, I remember reading that, will research some more, although hard to find solid info.

Maybe I will just change the filter for the feel good factor :lol:
 
Man, picking up my new LC and have a 900 mile drive..... I guess I’m not taking the expressway ?
Were it mine and something I planned to keep forever, I would make a drive of it and explore the backroads. Obviously it’ll take longer but decades of engine builder wisdom says it’s better, and it would be a more interesting trip as well. Plus you’ll never go back and wonder if those important first miles had a negative impact.

In all likelihood it wouldn’t actually hurt it significantly, but why not?
 
Re engine oil, fair point, I remember reading that, will research some more, although hard to find solid info.

Maybe I will just change the filter for the feel good factor :lol:
Until someone does oil analysis on the fresh stuff toyota puts into their engines it may never be truly confirmed.. but it makes sense.
 
I've been putting a mix of driving in so far, mostly around town, stop and go up to 45, with some limited time at highway speeds (keeping it under 60). No hard stops or starts, no towing.

Based on weather I may have to take the truck on a drive across WA for a bike race this weekend and then down to Oregon early next week. Generally I try to avoid extended highway cruise miles during break in. I will likely be around 500 miles by the weekend. I can take my Golf R, which is AWD and fine in light snow (all season tires), but doesn't have the clearance for an actual storm. One trip isn't worth compromising the break in, but I'm debating whether I'm being too paranoid.

Thoughts?
I would say during break in longer drives including high way is good for the car since longer trips:
- Reduces the number of start ups and related start up wear (i.e. the initial moment when the engine oil starts building pressure and a lubrication film between moving parts is formed). My expectation is that this "start up wear" is slightly more pronounced when the engine is brand new vs broken or run in.
- Will bring everything to operating temperature and will stay there, which is good for run in of the various surfaces (engine, gearbox, transfer case, diffs, axle/wheel bearings etc)

While I like and followed the explanation and recommendation in the manual (i.e. put light and varied loads on the engine and drive train), one additional thing I have done is taking it easy in corners and curved/clover leaf ramps onto highways to reduce side loads on wheel bearings and allow run in of the same. Makes me think driving on rough surfaces is also not helpful during the break in period, while I appreciate the LC200 is known to last forever including driving on unpaved wash board type roads.

Good luck and go and enjoy long high way drives!
 
Re engine oil, fair point, I remember reading that, will research some more, although hard to find solid info.

Maybe I will just change the filter for the feel good factor :lol:
I like the idea of changing transfer case and diff oils, however would put a bit more miles on the vehicle (like 5000) to make sure the break in is complete.

I guess cleanliness of the job is key or the cure maybe worse then the illness. As such I would trust myself more than the mechanics at the dealership. Still, cleaning the fill and drain plug areas carefully and using a clean pump and correct spec oils will be key.

Good luck!
 
FWIW I was told by both the dealer and my own mechanic that it's all a myth. These are modern, state of the art machines, not a rebuilt, bored out 350 from dad's Chevelle.

Care to guess what percentage of owners who don't follow forums have no idea about a break in period for their toyota? 95%?
 
Until someone does oil analysis on the fresh stuff toyota puts into their engines it may never be truly confirmed.. but it makes sense.
I did when I changed my oil at 2500 miles on my 20 Cruiser. Blackstone mentioned no black magic or wizardry and said higher metals were to be expected due to break in. Been running 5w30 ever since.

I was shocked at the amount of visible metal shavings in the filter. Each pleat had multiple flakes. There were still flakes evident at 7500 miles when I did my second change as well albeit definitely less.

Waiting 10k on the factory fill is highly unrecommended in my book.
 
I did when I changed my oil at 2500 miles on my 20 Cruiser. Blackstone mentioned no black magic or wizardry and said higher metals were to be expected due to break in. Been running 5w30 ever since.

I was shocked at the amount of visible metal shavings in the filter. Each pleat had multiple flakes. There were still flakes evident at 7500 miles when I did my second change as well albeit definitely less.

Waiting 10k on the factory fill is highly unrecommended in my book.
That’s what the filter is for though. And the stuff that is getting through this filter is going to anyway.
5k is a decent compromise if the owner plans to stick with that schedule but the oil likely isn’t mechanically or chemically compromised any more than normal and likely just fine to 10k.

Has anyone compared the first fill chemistry to TGMO to try and figure out if that’s what it is?
 
A fast oil change is my paranoia quirk. I always change the oil after 1,000 miles in any new car. Don't know if it makes a lick of difference, but makes me feel better. Driving my vehicle without anything in tow or doing much in LOW range beyond making sure it engages properly for the first 1,000 miles kinda' covers it for me. I never thought about the diff oil, but I suppose the same could apply there and transmission fluid as well......I know when I re-geared my last Jeep I followed a strict break in period and changed the diff fluid 2x in 1,000 miles to ensure I was purging all of the shavings....then I sold the vehicle 4 month later when I realized that a Jeep built for KOH was kind of stupid as a daily in suburban Philadelphia :rolleyes:
 
I changed the diff and t-case oil in our GX at 30K like was suggested by the book for any vehicle that sees regular off-road use. I can't imagine changing it any sooner but to each their own.
 
I changed the diff and t-case oil in our GX at 30K like was suggested by the book for any vehicle that sees regular off-road use. I can't imagine changing it any sooner but to each their own.

Imagine Alaska Off Road.
 

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