Hey folks,
Any recommendations on a hi lift jack?
thx
Any recommendations on a hi lift jack?
thx
hi lift jack
- Thread starter smokethedog
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If you want the original, then make sure it says Hi-Lift and is made in Bloomfield, Indiana. Most of the rest are foreign made. Probably work OK, but there are not many products you actually can have the choice of a quality Made in the USA option on.
The other choice is 48" or 60". If you plan on running big tires or getting stuck deep, then the extra 12" could come in handy. I never have used a 60" Hi-Lift, but could have used it a time or two. On the other hand, like any unsticking device, sometimes it can lead to you just getting in deeper.
One More Important Thing: Whatever you decide, make sure you make arrangements to bolt that sucker down. It's the last thing you want to have flying around in an accident!
The other choice is 48" or 60". If you plan on running big tires or getting stuck deep, then the extra 12" could come in handy. I never have used a 60" Hi-Lift, but could have used it a time or two. On the other hand, like any unsticking device, sometimes it can lead to you just getting in deeper.
One More Important Thing: Whatever you decide, make sure you make arrangements to bolt that sucker down. It's the last thing you want to have flying around in an accident!
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Also learn how to use one. These can be dangerous if not used properly.
I carry one because many runs require them, but I would not use it myself without someone there who is knowledgeable on 'em, as I don't have much experience (yet) with them.
What makes the procedure dangerous is that it depends on lifting the vehicle, then tipping it sideways.
Assume you've come to stuck, bottomed out in a set of ruts. Set jack under bumper, lift until tires are clear of ruts, push sideways until tires land on ground outside of ruts.
In the process, the jack goes somewheres sideways, too. It can dent your truck, smash your window, take off a finger, break your leg. You get the idea. Play carefully, very carefully, because rarely is a stuck ever anyplace level, dry, and with a good, ideal spot to actually "throw" the truck towards, because that's effectively what you're trying to do. A little like golf played with your favorite 4x4, you want to improve your lie and get to the 19th hole with a minimum of fuss and a maximum of fun.
All in a day's work, down on the farm, where I learned to off-road in old 2x4 pickemups. No way did we ever have anything close to an 80 to get us through the pasture field, etc. The only Jeep around was an old Willys that was so stuck in the mud near a pond that I never did actually want to get dirty enough to go check it out. Bloomfield is the county seat, so I guess my uncle always figured it was cheaper to stick a Hi-Lift in every truck and depend in good 'ol-fashioned boy power to get unstuck if we were dumb enough to end up like that than to buy another 4x4.
So be very careful with that new toy, the very esteemed Hi-Lift jack (or, if you must, its cheezy knock-offs.) One reason you want a good one is you want to be able to count on it when using it. There are several ways to use it and they actually work better after a little breaking in, a good reason to practice some. They do tend to skin up bumpers, so take that into consideration when planning your drills.
Assume you've come to stuck, bottomed out in a set of ruts. Set jack under bumper, lift until tires are clear of ruts, push sideways until tires land on ground outside of ruts.
In the process, the jack goes somewheres sideways, too. It can dent your truck, smash your window, take off a finger, break your leg. You get the idea. Play carefully, very carefully, because rarely is a stuck ever anyplace level, dry, and with a good, ideal spot to actually "throw" the truck towards, because that's effectively what you're trying to do. A little like golf played with your favorite 4x4, you want to improve your lie and get to the 19th hole with a minimum of fuss and a maximum of fun.
All in a day's work, down on the farm, where I learned to off-road in old 2x4 pickemups. No way did we ever have anything close to an 80 to get us through the pasture field, etc. The only Jeep around was an old Willys that was so stuck in the mud near a pond that I never did actually want to get dirty enough to go check it out. Bloomfield is the county seat, so I guess my uncle always figured it was cheaper to stick a Hi-Lift in every truck and depend in good 'ol-fashioned boy power to get unstuck if we were dumb enough to end up like that than to buy another 4x4.
So be very careful with that new toy, the very esteemed Hi-Lift jack (or, if you must, its cheezy knock-offs.) One reason you want a good one is you want to be able to count on it when using it. There are several ways to use it and they actually work better after a little breaking in, a good reason to practice some. They do tend to skin up bumpers, so take that into consideration when planning your drills.
A can of spray lubricant of some sort is also a must with these tools. I have a can of WD40 in the pocket of my 40 and whenever the jack is used, step one is to spray the mechanism down with lubricant.
I have and use the 60” all cast units.
Hi-Lift Jack <---- this is a link
I have and use the 60” all cast units.
Hi-Lift Jack <---- this is a link
Another thing that is easily overlooked using Hi-lifts on the 80 series. The suspension of the 80 flexes so well that there's times that you run out of jack and the wheel isn't even off the ground yet. This can be remedied by using a strap of some sort around axle and frame before raising vehicle, to limit suspension flex. Just be careful of brakelines and other more fragile components when doing this. A good stout rope or nylon strap or even a short section of chain will work. Be prepared to get filthy and wet, depending on conditions. I like the chain method myself. With the right bolt, nut & washer setup, adjustment is pretty straight forward and stronger and easier than tieing knots in straps. Just don't forget to remove it when unstuck.
There is a Canadian made jack, the Jackall, which is the older brother of the American made Hi-Lift. They are excellent quality and the only NATO approved Jack of that type. Not sure if you can find one in TN, but if you do, use it with confidence, unlike the no-name offshore copies....
I use a HI-LIFT 60" cast/steel . I know in the states and Canada there is what is called a Farm-Jack about half the price but the mechanism that holds the handle in place is weaker it is welded.
Another thing to consider is jack placement/mounting. I have the Canadian Nato jack mounted to a demello bed bar in the bed of my tacoma and the weather takes its toll. I keep it lubed but it still doesnt work as good as it should/would if i had mounted it inside the vehicle.
Its a little unreasonable in an extended cab taco but an 80 would be cake. Mounted somewhere out of the way the jack would last forever and you could count on it working great every time.
On another note, Ive never actually used my jack to get myself unstuck. I tested my sliders once but every other time it has been used to lift jeeps w broken axles. Youd be surprised at how handy they are. We lifted my buddys boat house, another dudes deck, moved concrete slabs........ Handy frickin tool to have in your van at all times.
D
Its a little unreasonable in an extended cab taco but an 80 would be cake. Mounted somewhere out of the way the jack would last forever and you could count on it working great every time.
On another note, Ive never actually used my jack to get myself unstuck. I tested my sliders once but every other time it has been used to lift jeeps w broken axles. Youd be surprised at how handy they are. We lifted my buddys boat house, another dudes deck, moved concrete slabs........ Handy frickin tool to have in your van at all times.
D
+1 my jackall is 20 years old and has seen a lot of lifting . it still works flawlessly .
Farm-Jacks are cheap, are made in China, and unfortunately have quality control issues. They are about as good as the off brand shackles availiable at the same farm shops and Princess Auto. Sometimes they hold, and sometimes they grenade on you....
My Jackall's almost as old as my 60, and I trust it.
I used to have a Jackall, nice peice of kit. It went with my 1980 FJ 40 back in 1988.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I wouldn't buy any of the imported jacks. Chicago had one, I called it Mr. Scary Jack after we use it in his garage one time. I gave him a spare one I got at a garage sale and made him promise to cut the other one up.
This is good advice. One tactic I plan to try is storing the jacking mechanism inside my truck to cut down on exposure to mud and weather. Right now I keep a short one behind the seat so it doesn't get to dirty. When I go to a bigger jack this won't work.
I always strap the axle to the frame even if I have a plenty long jack, it minimizes the amount you need to lift the truck. I use a light weight ratchet strap. I keep it along with the can of WD4, a small Cresent wrench, air downs and tire gauge in an ammo box bungeed under the front seat of the truck.
I've found two at garage sales for under $10 in the past year, they never wear out so it's a good item to buy that way.
A can of spray lubricant of some sort is also a must with these tools. I have a can of WD40 in the pocket of my 40 and whenever the jack is used, step one is to spray the mechanism down with lubricant.
....
This is good advice. One tactic I plan to try is storing the jacking mechanism inside my truck to cut down on exposure to mud and weather. Right now I keep a short one behind the seat so it doesn't get to dirty. When I go to a bigger jack this won't work.
I always strap the axle to the frame even if I have a plenty long jack, it minimizes the amount you need to lift the truck. I use a light weight ratchet strap. I keep it along with the can of WD4, a small Cresent wrench, air downs and tire gauge in an ammo box bungeed under the front seat of the truck.
I've found two at garage sales for under $10 in the past year, they never wear out so it's a good item to buy that way.
I like that idea!
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
I used my 60" hilift yesterday. despite months of neglect (in the tropics) it performed flawlessly.
Instead of using wd40 on the mechanism, just give it a good pressure-washing once in a while and douse it with white lithium grease (from a spray can). Works a treat at keeping water off and lubricates much better than wd40 (which is a better cleaner than lube, IMO).
I use a simple motorcycle tie-down to strap the axle, double wrap around frame and axle, then the cam-lock does the rest. Easy to put on, easy to take off (once the truck is on flat ground again. I don't like using chain because I have been in a situation where the spring was compressed, then I freed the truck and had to cut the strap off afterwards because the spring was so tightly tensioned. If it had been chain, I would have had an issue there, and driving home with the axle strapped to the frame would be lousy.
I prefer the expensive (red) cast hilift. It is supposed to be stronger. When you are out in the muck, on slippery/crumbly surfaces you don't want something that could fail. Failure could be dangerous. Pony up the extra coins for the good stuff.
also- on an 80, I feel like a 60" is pretty necessary. The rear end of a stock 80 can flex enough to make a 48" just about maxed out. Better to have some extra length.
Instead of using wd40 on the mechanism, just give it a good pressure-washing once in a while and douse it with white lithium grease (from a spray can). Works a treat at keeping water off and lubricates much better than wd40 (which is a better cleaner than lube, IMO).
I use a simple motorcycle tie-down to strap the axle, double wrap around frame and axle, then the cam-lock does the rest. Easy to put on, easy to take off (once the truck is on flat ground again. I don't like using chain because I have been in a situation where the spring was compressed, then I freed the truck and had to cut the strap off afterwards because the spring was so tightly tensioned. If it had been chain, I would have had an issue there, and driving home with the axle strapped to the frame would be lousy.
I prefer the expensive (red) cast hilift. It is supposed to be stronger. When you are out in the muck, on slippery/crumbly surfaces you don't want something that could fail. Failure could be dangerous. Pony up the extra coins for the good stuff.
also- on an 80, I feel like a 60" is pretty necessary. The rear end of a stock 80 can flex enough to make a 48" just about maxed out. Better to have some extra length.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
If you have the axle strapped to the frame how will flex affect jacking?
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
if you strap the axle to the frame, flex won't affect jacking. Assuming you start with a more-or-less compressed spring. Or at least with a level spring. But if you start with an already drooped axle, the shorter jack might not be enough to move stuff around effectively.
I had an experience just this week where my coil was just about maxed out, with the tire hanging middair and the axle on dirt. I had to raise it somehow, to get ground under the tire (and to get dirt out from under the axle).
Said better-- I could pile stuff without problems, but I had to have a way to put the wheel *down* onto the pile with vehicle weight, to get traction. With the 60" hilift, it touched the bumper with about 6" of hilift left. I lifted about 3"- leaving only 3" or so of hilift. It would have required stacking an unsteady pile of debris/dirt/rock on an unsteady hill, then lifting off of that if I had only had a 48" jack. I would not have liked that scenario.
so.... the flexy nature of the 80 suspension (especially with a lift) meant that I really did need a longer jack in that particular situation.
Another huge advantage to the 60" jack is if you need to use it as a hand winch, the extra 12" is very welcome and means less re-rigging.
in short:
Nothing at all < 48" jack < 60" jack
I had an experience just this week where my coil was just about maxed out, with the tire hanging middair and the axle on dirt. I had to raise it somehow, to get ground under the tire (and to get dirt out from under the axle).
Said better-- I could pile stuff without problems, but I had to have a way to put the wheel *down* onto the pile with vehicle weight, to get traction. With the 60" hilift, it touched the bumper with about 6" of hilift left. I lifted about 3"- leaving only 3" or so of hilift. It would have required stacking an unsteady pile of debris/dirt/rock on an unsteady hill, then lifting off of that if I had only had a 48" jack. I would not have liked that scenario.
so.... the flexy nature of the 80 suspension (especially with a lift) meant that I really did need a longer jack in that particular situation.
Another huge advantage to the 60" jack is if you need to use it as a hand winch, the extra 12" is very welcome and means less re-rigging.
in short:
Nothing at all < 48" jack < 60" jack
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I guess the versatility of the extra length out weighs the storage problems.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
I haven't solved the storage problem yet.
my latest plan is to carry the mechanism and handle in my storage drawer, then attach the 60" portion to my roof rack with two bolts and some wingnuts (and maybe a small lock)
If I lived somewhere less rusty (and with fewer sticky fingers) I'd just put the whole thing on the roof rack.
my latest plan is to carry the mechanism and handle in my storage drawer, then attach the 60" portion to my roof rack with two bolts and some wingnuts (and maybe a small lock)
If I lived somewhere less rusty (and with fewer sticky fingers) I'd just put the whole thing on the roof rack.
