Inside of governor there is a flat black rubber has a small hole, anyone might have that part? or where to get it I have posted a photo of that part
Hi guys need help with my 1986 BJ74 with 13BT
- Thread starter TLC fever
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The whole unit is showing as discontinued on megazip which has a digital parts fiche that's a great resource. Also, toyodiy.com has been priceless as I've learned parts for this rig.
The o-ring should be 90099-14039 which is also discontinued but maybe you can find a similar diameter/thickness one for another application from another supplier?
The boost compensator diaphragm itself is 22542-54260 and looks like it was used in bunch of models, including BJ7*.
I put an order in through ToyotaPartsDeal.com for 22542-54260 and they appeared to be able to order it from their source. My order is "preparing for shipment" so it looks like it's going to make it...fingers crossed.
The o-ring should be 90099-14039 which is also discontinued but maybe you can find a similar diameter/thickness one for another application from another supplier?
The boost compensator diaphragm itself is 22542-54260 and looks like it was used in bunch of models, including BJ7*.
I put an order in through ToyotaPartsDeal.com for 22542-54260 and they appeared to be able to order it from their source. My order is "preparing for shipment" so it looks like it's going to make it...fingers crossed.
- Thread starter
- #3
Awesome could you please let me know when you get it my cell 310 877-5959 John
Sure, I'll post up a photo of the diaphragm once I get it in. That should let you confirm it. I'm not planning on tearing mine apart until I can plan for a little down time and do the injectors and a few other maintenance items all at once.
Got it in the mail. Looks correct from photos I've seen but I haven't taken mine apart yet so I don't know for sure.
- Thread starter
- #6
let me know ASAP thanks call me if you like 310 877-5959 John i ordered mine also they just called me its in
Hey John, I'm probably not going to get to this for a few months so it's likely you'll be the first one to get it done. Post up your results though! I'm sure someone else will find themselves in the same boat.
I did put an inquiry in with JP-carparts.com about the o-ring, which they still list. Haven't heard back but if I do I will post that info as well.
I did put an inquiry in with JP-carparts.com about the o-ring, which they still list. Haven't heard back but if I do I will post that info as well.
Well as it happens I needed to do this....was kind of unsure about the part 22542-54260 being the correct one as nobody has gotten around to doing it yet, on this thread anyway, but I can confirm that it is. For some reason DIY does not show the diaphragm as a single part, instead lists the whole compensator which is N/A.
It all started when I discovered that the wastegate actuator was blown out and non functional, after scouring the earth we found one in Spain, an OEM part in original box. From what I can tell, and how much it was I can only assume that it was the last one on the planet!
Anyhow after freshening up the turbo, changing out the exauhst manifold gasket and reassembling with the golden actuator all seemed to be fine except the boost was not quite what I expected at 6.5 psi with 4mm of shim spacing the actuator, general consensus seems to be 10 psi with 4mm of shim. FSM calls for between 6&8 psi on a 13BT iirc.
This prompted me to investigate a little further over to the boost compensator etc. What I found was that application of either vacuum or pressure resulted in no action on the boost compensator diaphragm.
I got a little more familiar with the system at hand and how the compensator system works and determined that the 3 psi of boost that I felt I should have been getting over and above the 6.5 was due to a perforated diaphragm in the compensator.
So haveing not been into one of these before I turned to the almighty Mud and found this thread originally from TLC Fever, thank you btw, he does not really mention his symptoms but nevertheless he had detected a hole and was looking for the same part.
So I dove in!
Explaining how this comes off, and back on the pump is a little difficult but I'll try to relay the best I can.
This was done on the truck, BJ74, and as some of you know things are designed rather tightly on a 74, not a lot of room to play. It would be much easier on the bench.
- batteries and trays out
- intake heater wiring and main two plug harness out of the way
- remove A/C idle up pot/bracket
So not having been in to one of these before I was not sure of the next step but decided to pull the diaphragm cap off first revealing a whack of oil in there, yep she's done! Oil should be on the other side I believe.
At that point I figured I was going to be in and out in no time as all I had to do is spin the 10mm nut off, which I found out later has some thread locker on it as well, switch out the diaphragm and re-assemble so I threw a 10 mill wrench on it and felt some resistance so kept going until the seal between the diaphragm and the housing let go and then the rod and diaphragm just wanted to spin making it impossible to loosen the nut as there was no way to hold on to the rod. I was unsure of what was going on at the other end of the rod and really didn't want to damage anything in there so I decided to remove the whole unit from the injection pump.
The four 10mm bolts came out of the housing and I figured that it would all just come away from the side of the pump, no, not to be. The full stop rod that goes through the housing and into the pump cavity has a lever arrangement on the end of if that really can only come out one way and when it is still in the housing it didn't appear that it could be done so I removed the 10 mm nut, washer and outboard full stop lever from the end of the rod which made it possible to remove the rod from compensator housing.
Once I had it all on the bench I decided to spit the two housings to see what was going on inside at the other end of the diaphragm rod.
Here is a pic of the whole thing blown apart.....
Pic of the damaged diaphragm...
Here is a pic of the old and new.....
Now that it was all apart I could see how things worked, it now was easy to hold the end of the diaphragm rod with a 9mm wrench and remove the nut on the other end to change the diaphragm.
Going back together I felt was fairly straight forward but I would be proved wrong!
I first assembled the whole unit including the diaphragm and cover to the full stop housing without the full stop rod and tried to fit the unit in while trying to get the rod to sit in the correct place inside the pump but it seemed impossible to get everything to sit where it needed to be. So ultimately through trial and error I found a way that seamed to work....
I first installed the full stop rod housing with rod in the correct place against the pump with only the bottom left bolt loosely in. The next step was a bit finicky, I took the compensator housing with rod, diaphragm and cover assembeled and while tilting the full stop housing forward I was able to get the full stop rod end to get in behind the control lever in the top part of the full stop housing. Once that was in place, you will know because you won't be able to bull it apart as the washer end of the diaphragm rod is now against the lever inside, it is now a matter of installing the four 10mm bolts the mate the two housings together, the lower inside one was a bit of a bitch to get in, as well as the other 3 that retain the unit to the side of the pump. The last thing is to install the outer full stop lever, washer and nut.
Now that was easy! NOT!
Note, there are two O rings involved, one between the two housings and one between the pump and the full stop rod housing. Neither was avalable from the dealer but I was able to get a couple from the parts store. I used a little Syl-Glide lube to hold them in place during assembly.
I hope this info helps anyone in the future who may need to attempt this repair.
Cheers,
Rob Millson
It all started when I discovered that the wastegate actuator was blown out and non functional, after scouring the earth we found one in Spain, an OEM part in original box. From what I can tell, and how much it was I can only assume that it was the last one on the planet!
Anyhow after freshening up the turbo, changing out the exauhst manifold gasket and reassembling with the golden actuator all seemed to be fine except the boost was not quite what I expected at 6.5 psi with 4mm of shim spacing the actuator, general consensus seems to be 10 psi with 4mm of shim. FSM calls for between 6&8 psi on a 13BT iirc.
This prompted me to investigate a little further over to the boost compensator etc. What I found was that application of either vacuum or pressure resulted in no action on the boost compensator diaphragm.
I got a little more familiar with the system at hand and how the compensator system works and determined that the 3 psi of boost that I felt I should have been getting over and above the 6.5 was due to a perforated diaphragm in the compensator.
So haveing not been into one of these before I turned to the almighty Mud and found this thread originally from TLC Fever, thank you btw, he does not really mention his symptoms but nevertheless he had detected a hole and was looking for the same part.
So I dove in!
Explaining how this comes off, and back on the pump is a little difficult but I'll try to relay the best I can.
This was done on the truck, BJ74, and as some of you know things are designed rather tightly on a 74, not a lot of room to play. It would be much easier on the bench.
- batteries and trays out
- intake heater wiring and main two plug harness out of the way
- remove A/C idle up pot/bracket
So not having been in to one of these before I was not sure of the next step but decided to pull the diaphragm cap off first revealing a whack of oil in there, yep she's done! Oil should be on the other side I believe.
At that point I figured I was going to be in and out in no time as all I had to do is spin the 10mm nut off, which I found out later has some thread locker on it as well, switch out the diaphragm and re-assemble so I threw a 10 mill wrench on it and felt some resistance so kept going until the seal between the diaphragm and the housing let go and then the rod and diaphragm just wanted to spin making it impossible to loosen the nut as there was no way to hold on to the rod. I was unsure of what was going on at the other end of the rod and really didn't want to damage anything in there so I decided to remove the whole unit from the injection pump.
The four 10mm bolts came out of the housing and I figured that it would all just come away from the side of the pump, no, not to be. The full stop rod that goes through the housing and into the pump cavity has a lever arrangement on the end of if that really can only come out one way and when it is still in the housing it didn't appear that it could be done so I removed the 10 mm nut, washer and outboard full stop lever from the end of the rod which made it possible to remove the rod from compensator housing.
Once I had it all on the bench I decided to spit the two housings to see what was going on inside at the other end of the diaphragm rod.
Here is a pic of the whole thing blown apart.....
Pic of the damaged diaphragm...
Here is a pic of the old and new.....
Now that it was all apart I could see how things worked, it now was easy to hold the end of the diaphragm rod with a 9mm wrench and remove the nut on the other end to change the diaphragm.
Going back together I felt was fairly straight forward but I would be proved wrong!
I first assembled the whole unit including the diaphragm and cover to the full stop housing without the full stop rod and tried to fit the unit in while trying to get the rod to sit in the correct place inside the pump but it seemed impossible to get everything to sit where it needed to be. So ultimately through trial and error I found a way that seamed to work....
I first installed the full stop rod housing with rod in the correct place against the pump with only the bottom left bolt loosely in. The next step was a bit finicky, I took the compensator housing with rod, diaphragm and cover assembeled and while tilting the full stop housing forward I was able to get the full stop rod end to get in behind the control lever in the top part of the full stop housing. Once that was in place, you will know because you won't be able to bull it apart as the washer end of the diaphragm rod is now against the lever inside, it is now a matter of installing the four 10mm bolts the mate the two housings together, the lower inside one was a bit of a bitch to get in, as well as the other 3 that retain the unit to the side of the pump. The last thing is to install the outer full stop lever, washer and nut.
Now that was easy! NOT!
Note, there are two O rings involved, one between the two housings and one between the pump and the full stop rod housing. Neither was avalable from the dealer but I was able to get a couple from the parts store. I used a little Syl-Glide lube to hold them in place during assembly.
I hope this info helps anyone in the future who may need to attempt this repair.
Cheers,
Rob Millson
Thanks for posting that Rob! I'm still a little nervous to tear into mine but knowing it's been done and seeing the steps is really helpful.
Redreefer awesome description.. I have so many questions 
.
first, can you share specs on the o-rings you sourced?
Second, it sounds like the diaphram control rod is held in place by the flat, washer-side bumping up against the rod that connects to the outboard full-stop lever. It also sounds like that rod comes out by removing the 10mm bolt holding the full-stop lever in place (eg, it's not threaded/locked into anything on the pump-housing side.)
If that's true, do you believe it'd be possible to replace the diaphragm without removing the compensator by:
- Removing the cap over the diaphram
- removing outboard full stop lever and pulling out the rod going through into the pump-body
- pulling the (now unblocked) diaphram control rod out from the front
.first, can you share specs on the o-rings you sourced?
Second, it sounds like the diaphram control rod is held in place by the flat, washer-side bumping up against the rod that connects to the outboard full-stop lever. It also sounds like that rod comes out by removing the 10mm bolt holding the full-stop lever in place (eg, it's not threaded/locked into anything on the pump-housing side.)
If that's true, do you believe it'd be possible to replace the diaphragm without removing the compensator by:
- Removing the cap over the diaphram
- removing outboard full stop lever and pulling out the rod going through into the pump-body
- pulling the (now unblocked) diaphram control rod out from the front
Hi there,
fantastic writeup! - the boost compensator on my 13BT is leaky so I will need to replace the diaphragm - since the hexagon bolt on the side of the boost compensator housing is blocked (I can't access the star wheel) - I needed to open it with force. So I needed a replacement plug:
In case anybody needs the information - the plug can be replaced by a standard DIN 908 with a M18x1,5 thread.
fantastic writeup! - the boost compensator on my 13BT is leaky so I will need to replace the diaphragm - since the hexagon bolt on the side of the boost compensator housing is blocked (I can't access the star wheel) - I needed to open it with force. So I needed a replacement plug:
In case anybody needs the information - the plug can be replaced by a standard DIN 908 with a M18x1,5 thread.
Last edited:
