Hi Again and Rusty A-Pillar (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 1, 2013
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Hi folks. I can't believe how long its been since I visited this site. I'm seriously stupid for not looking things up here. The amount of good work and knowledge recorded here is just stunning.

I spent a year trying to treat/stabilize rust chemically: por15 (too toxic!), zero rust, rust dissolver, jb weld, rage filler, fluidfilm, etc. And after a few years it was clearly not the right approach. I went at my truck with a mallet and just hammered all the loose stuff free (almost all was bad fixing from previous owner.) Pounds of sodden stinky chucks of rusty bondo falling out onto the driveway.

I splurged to get the rear of the truck partially media blasted and epoxy primered, and then it was clear what a bad spot I was in, or really how many holes the truck had that needed filling. Quarterpanels and rear wheelwell. I started learning to weld with my friends mig, then bought my own mig from craigslist for $200. I'm really happy with how empowered that mig has made me.

I guess that's my advice to people with rust issues: buy a cheap mig and go to town. Its fun and even a terrible bad job is very satisfying and stronger than you can believe. I think I've spent $400 on welding stuff including welder and all safety gear and materials - not even on the radar compared to what local body shops charge for their work. Makes me sad that I didn't look at all the great mig work on this site before I started on my own. I would have done a better job if I'd known what that meant before I started. I had to redo the worst of my work.

So anyway. My a-pillar:

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I had some other bubbles on the roof that I scraped with screwdriver, ground to shiny metal, splayed in some zinc primer and then filled the holes with the mig. No problem.

So with this bigger hole I did the same and ended up following the rust under that seal, like it goes farther than I can reach. So now mig is out of the question.

I went in to Eastlake Auto Glass (they did a really good 3+ hour windshield replacement for my other 60.) today to see about taking the windshield out and they recommended I not take it out, that it would almost certainly break because of the existing chips and because a new windshield and install would be ~$400.

I've taken out all the bad metal I can reach and have a gaping hole there now about 1.5 inches wide. I blobbed some zero rust in there, was thinking to now jet a bunch of grease in and then mig up what I can, but I'm sort of stuck with how to seal under that rubber seal. I can remove the chrome strips and pull the rubber back a bit to apply some sort of chemical...

What do people recommend I do here for a temp fix?

At some point the windshield will crack and I can cut out and replace the bad metal, but I want something to hold me over for a few years living outside in the seattle area. One option is a big blob of jb weld. Another is to fill it with all-metal? I can mig up quite a bit of that hole so long as I stay far enough from that rubber seal. Thinking to insulate the rubber from the welder with steel wool and some sheet metal.

Thanks people. I really really appreciate the brain trust here.

PS: Here's my 'fixed' tailgate, this is 3 hours with a mig, grinder and some handy scraps of 16g sheet if you don't care how factory it looks. (All those scraps are useful for something right?) That 16g will take years to rust back to its previous state. And tailgate is super solid now where before it had all sorts of flex because the entire bottom seam was gone. I think this is totally acceptable for basically zero money and relatively little effort.

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Foil tape: it might come to that. I had some foil tape on some perforations for a good long while and it worked well.

Well... this is not my fault but Mr Hyde emerged when my wife came home with a half-used jbweld steel stick. How could I not try that?

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Its like I invited some hornets to make a real strong nest. I pressed a quarter stick in there with a screwdriver. Yarr! Then grinded it once it was hard.

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Found and filled a bigger rust hole. Is weird that the metal around the rust is thick and solid. My heart wants to take the roof off but my eyes tell me it'll be fine this way.

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And then some coats of VHT epoxy suspension paint. Again my my fault the jbweld stuff was thirsty for it. Plus the weather was perfect for painting: high 30s (f).

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Takes 10 days to dry, then I'll give it some paint.

I'm really happy that a partial press on my mig gun lets me purge without feeding wire. How else would I put out all those paint and sealant fires?
 
The problem with filling a hole with a big weld is going to be contraction as the weld cools. It can be enough to actually crease the surround sheet metal. My solution is to remove a little more metal and use some 18ga new sheet metal to build a patch. It's a job to get it to fit well. Use some painters tape over the hole and a sharpy to get the outline of the hole. Then put that on the new metal and cut it out. Then using a grinder (or whatever you have) test fit the patch. Keep removing metal around the edges till it fits inside with a couple mm gap all the way around. Ensure you duplicate curves too. Then tack weld in the center of the edge of the patch, don't start with a tack weld in a corner because of contraction. Tack all 4 sides then start tacking all around cutting the open space in half everytime. Fill all the way around and then grind smooth when done.
 
Hi ShifThead,

Yeah I warped panels before by screwing up with too much heat. In that case I cut a piece and ground it so it was snug all around. When I welded it the new metal sucked into the tiny gap and created a pressure on the surrounding metal and a big crease in the panel. Really pissed me off because I'd taken so long to do a really careful job with a perfect press fit. And I had to cut across the top and side of the patch and reweld. Now when I put in patches I am careful to leave a pretty big gap.

But the trick that is working for me: a very experienced builder told me to keep the heat down: make sure the metal is only warm to the touch before you put down another blob. I did that here, 1 or 2 small spots, then I'd go find something else to do, like grind, or take a picture. As long as I go slow I can fill the bigger holes. Also the low heat means there is no damage to the car interior. I was honestly surprised that I managed it in this case, I think it was the slow pace that let it work, but could also be that this roof metal seems quite thick.
 
Hi ShifThead,

Yeah I warped panels before by screwing up with too much heat. In that case I cut a piece and ground it so it was snug all around. When I welded it the new metal sucked into the tiny gap and created a pressure on the surrounding metal and a big crease in the panel. Really pissed me off because I'd taken so long to do a really careful job with a perfect press fit. And I had to cut across the top and side of the patch and reweld. Now when I put in patches I am careful to leave a pretty big gap.

But the trick that is working for me: a very experienced builder told me to keep the heat down: make sure the metal is only warm to the touch before you put down another blob. I did that here, 1 or 2 small spots, then I'd go find something else to do, like grind, or take a picture. As long as I go slow I can fill the bigger holes. Also the low heat means there is no damage to the car interior. I was honestly surprised that I managed it in this case, I think it was the slow pace that let it work, but could also be that this roof metal seems quite thick.
I had to do this same repair. Check out my build thread in my sig line (saving another FJ60). I found it easier to stitch in new metal, but my welding skills are amateur at best. Post up the finished project.:cheers:
 
Oh man... your work really spells out what I'm in for in the future. Terrific job on the roof. Thanks for cutting yours open and showing it all. Probably I should go the same route as you - but I'm ready to rest for a bit. Nice job on that rear corner.

You are a much better fab-er and welder than I am. I wish I'd practiced more before I rebuilt my quarter panels but live and learn I guess.

Hey... I wanted to use that spraymax weldthrough primer but just couldn't stomach the price. Local store wanted $30/can. So I'm using cold-galvanized zinc paint at $8/can for behind my welds. Opinion? I did splurge for the 2k epoxy primer for the outside.
 
Oh man... your work really spells out what I'm in for in the future. Terrific job on the roof. Thanks for cutting yours open and showing it all. Probably I should go the same route as you - but I'm ready to rest for a bit. Nice job on that rear corner.

You are a much better fab-er and welder than I am. I wish I'd practiced more before I rebuilt my quarter panels but live and learn I guess.

Hey... I wanted to use that spraymax weldthrough primer but just couldn't stomach the price. Local store wanted $30/can. So I'm using cold-galvanized zinc paint at $8/can for behind my welds. Opinion? I did splurge for the 2k epoxy primer for the outside.
Thanks for the compliments. I bought all of my supplies through Eastwood.com. The primer was only $14. The most expensive stuff was the gutter sealant.
 
Ok... all thanks to your response and photos I had to go and pick at the roof seam sealant today. There was some cracking below where I welded. I scraped and chiseled and cleared about 3 feet.

Looks like the roof is periodically spot welded to the gutter? There is a gap between the roof and the gutter. A very few small parts of that show rust.

Clearly I'm in for it. I'm wondering a few things about how to proceed.

1) From your pics I see the upper welds but how did you reattach the roof to the gutter area? Did you just not touch the currently sealed seam? I'm not confident that I could re-form the roof to seam. It is very precise fit right now. Maybe I cut 1.5-2" above the seam?

2) Canadian bj60: I have a roof rack. There's a Canadian version of 3M 5200 spooged all over one of the uprights. (Clear silicone bathroom sealant.) I'm now thinking I should just cut the whole roof free. Clean and coat it all in one swoop fell. I don't see how the roof is attached to the underneath. Do you think the whole thing come free at once?

3) Rather than depending on sealant... why wouldn't I just weld the roof to the gutter? And then paint/seal that? Why keep the seam?
 
The roof is spot welded to the gutter. I used a sharp narrow chisel to break them free. I drilled small holes in my patch panels every few inches and welded them back to the gutter. If you look at image #105 of my build thread, you will see what I mean. Then use self leveling seam sealer to re-seal the gutter' There are threads about re-sealing gutters here, just use the search function. Do not use silicone based sealants, as they promote rust.
 
I tried sponge today but steam is so evil.

I had a good day today. Low 40s but sun was out so everything warmed up. And roof metal is much thicker than I'm used to. Here is the sketchy rack mount that was beautifully sealed with clear silicone bath caulk.

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Actually not so rusty inside. Pretty neat!

In the bright sun I could see more tiny bubbles near the gutter. Made these holes just scratching with an awl. Then used the grinder.

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Hosed down the insides with zinc paint.

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Rough fit a piece then drilled a hole in it.

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Zapped it all. Great way to control heat is having lots of different places to weld. I just cycled between them. Game me something to do instead of waiting. For me these welds came out great.

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The new side holes filled

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Grind-ed:

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Nice work @zakthor , I went through the process of ridding myself of the nasty 1989 roof rack that the PO installed.

But I did not get around to doing any welding ( that is still on my list of new skills to acquire). So kudos on the welding.

Curious - did you remount the old roof rack? It looks like you did in the last image. Why did you keep it? They don't seem to carry any weight and won't you just get more rust ?

Why not upgrade to something that can handle a few hundred pounds? (obviously we all have different uses/reasons for our builds)
 
Hi hygge,

Welding is pretty fun and i love that im improving. Because i'm so new to it it is actually mentally engaging for me.

Theres a real joy in doing it myself, badly.

Why reinstall the old rack? Probably you are right but.,. Serious rack wont get held with those puny screws, need to bolt or weld into roof structure, quite a bit of force involved. That is something i wouldnt half-ass. I filled the screw holes with good grease, the area should be stable for years. My immediate goal is to get truck stable for outside living, out of the garage.
 
Totally agree 100% on getting the truck baselined for outdoors. My truck lives outside 100% of the time ( wish I had a garage).

Remediating any rust is a top priority for me in 2019!

Keep up the awesome work. Cheering you on.
 
Did you leave the head liner in while doing the welding? Got to fix an 80 i have dont want to pull the head liner also dont want to burn a hole in it either
 

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