Help with figuring out different brakes (1 Viewer)

[Chrisleduc1]

So I picked up a set of front rotors from @Igop
(For Sale - 2-Piece Rotors Available)

Unfortunately, they wont fit on the 18 LX.

I’m trying to get clarification on what changed with brake shields etc over the years, so that I can figure out what I’d have to replace to make these rotors work.

I don’t have access to a parts disc or whatever is being used today, so is anyone willing to take look and see if they can see what’s changed and part numbers?

 

[bloc]

People have upgraded to your 18 (or Tundra) brakes, and I looked into doing this in the past. The primary functional change was 16+ 200s went from a 13.4 to a 13.9" diameter rotor for increased stopping power. This requires backing plates.. but they also changed the knuckle to move the caliper mounting bolt position out and increase the bolt size.

Some guys used their stock early 200 knuckles and tundra calipers which do bolt on.. but the brake line connection was different. Double flare vs a banjo fitting, IIRC.

So for you to use the smaller rotors you'd likely have to find early 200 knuckles, calipers, backing plates, and possibly bearing/hub.. hell maybe even the CV. The hard part about comparing part numbers is sometimes the numbers change even though the part is compatible.

If those rotors were designed as drop-in for earlier model vehicles I'm not sure they'd actually be an upgrade due to the smaller diameter. Why are you looking at 2-piece? Most "small brake" 200s do fine on stock rotors, let alone using TRD pads. I wish I had your larger stock brakes, actually.

 

[Chrisleduc1]

If those rotors were designed as drop-in for earlier model vehicles I'm not sure they'd actually be an upgrade due to the smaller diameter. Why are you looking at 2-piece? Most "small brake" 200s do fine on stock rotors, let alone using TRD pads. I wish I had your larger stock brakes, actually.

Well, I’m definitely riding heavy: front bumper and stage 4 bud built in 3 weeks. Slee rear and sliders as soon as they ship. 40 gal aux gas tank. Winch. Prinsu rack. Working on aux water. 3rd row still installed. And hauling 2 adults, 3 kids and car seats and all the extra junk that goes with kids.

Combined with I’m basically 100% in the mountains.

I have the TRD pads and it was an improvement.

I understand the 16+ went to the larger Tundra brake system. But there is no way that the stock rotor is superior to the SOCOM rotors, especially at my weight.

It’s likely I’ll follow through with the supercharger install that I have sitting in the shop. Another reason for brake upgrade IMO.

In short, I’m looking for a way to upgrade the brakes, without going BBK.

 

[bloc]

That's the thing.. these brakes are smaller diameter than what you have, and OE toyota is no slouch in the quality department with regard to the steel used and casting techniques.

My point is functionally speaking your larger stock rotors may actually be superior to the SOCOMs since they were spec'd for a smaller application.

Now if you could find SOCOM rotors for your 16+ truck, obvious upgrade and most likely worth the money given your weight/use case. Do we know whether they continued the non-standard combat vehicle contract into the 16+ model years? Or to go another route, are the cruisers that are getting armor doing any similar brake mods?

Personally given all that weight, supercharger plans, mountains.. I'd be biting the bullet on cost and a smaller sidewall and going with a true BBK and 20" wheels. At some point it's just impossible to improve stopping power/thermal capacity without adding a significant amount of mass to the rotor.

 

[TexAZ]

i did the tundra conversion on an 08.
the backing plates, calipers, and rotors were the major change.

knuckles, CVs, hubs....all the same.
brake lines were a pain in the butt. I went back and forth with crown brake lines and eventually just installed the tundra hardlines and crown lifted tundra lines.

if your heart is set on the socom rotors, i've got all the stock parts to make the switch out.
i doubt it would be worth it though.

Personally, i would stick with the new hardware, pick up a set of rotors and pads from cruiser brothers, or find a set that has been cryo-treated.

add in the stainless lines and expect to push on the pedal to stop the beast.

Tundra rotors, HD pads, and stainless lines definitely helped stop the truck in a bind....but day to day, the computer still makes it brake soft and late.

 

[bloc]

Note that as far as I know OP cannot just put on early model backing plates, rotors, and calipers.

The caliper mounting bolts on 16+ are definitely larger diameter, and I seem to remember them being in a different position as well. Which means OP would likely need knuckles off an early truck too.

Knuckles mean you need to confirm whether ABS sensors and tone rings and such are the same or compatible as well.

 

[TexAZ]

@bloc , good catch. Forgot about the changes in 16 to the knuckle.

There is a thread with all the part numbers. From a couple years back.
Would be worth looking up if you are set on making changes.

 

[Chrisleduc1]

Personally given all that weight, supercharger plans, mountains.. I'd be biting the bullet on cost and a smaller sidewall and going with a true BBK and 20" wheels. At some point it's just impossible to improve stopping power/thermal capacity without adding a significant amount of mass to thetas is rotor.

As the build has progressed, weight has been added. I concur with your assessment. At this point, the BBK is starting to look like the right route..