Help with cracked cylinder head

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Joined
Sep 3, 2008
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49
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Location
hampton, VA
Tore down my son's 1998 4Runner with the 2.7L 3rz motor because of bad compression on 2 cylinders. Burned exhaust valves on #1, and #3 cyl. Took head to machine shop for a valve job, and they found a crack between spark plug hole and intake valve on #3. I need advice on where to get a reasonably priced reman. head (complete). Advance has one for $500. Machine shop says they can get one for $750. Don't know where either of them comes from. My son's funds are limited as he is finishing his last year in college.
 
Personally I don't think $500 for a complete rebuilt head is unreasonable at all. I've had more than that into rebuilding other cylinder heads that had good castings. And they weren't 4 valve heads either.
 
I gave more than that for the head that is going on my 22RE. Granted it is a performance head and is a 2 valve design.

Bare castings from LC Engineering are a grand and I would guess a new one from one of our favorite parts slingers would probably be twice that, so $500 for a reman probably isn't too bad. I would ask some questions about warranty and where it's coming from.
 
Ended up getting a reman head from National Cylinder Heads for $370 shipped, with return shipping for the core. The machine shop prolly would have cost more.
 
That's like stealing! I can't remember exactly what I had into my 2F head but I'm pretty sure it was into 4 digits or close to it. Casting wasn't cracked but it needed all new seats, all new guides, valves, springs, etc. Even just having all the guides replaced and a basic valve job o my M20 head on my BMW was about $400 by the time it was done. Hope it works out for you.
 
So, I have the timing cover loose, but it won't come out. It looks like the oil pickup is attached to the cover (FSM). Please tell me it's possible to remove it without dropping the oil pan.
 
Undo the bolts and let it hang there. You should only have to undo the front ones.
 
I cannot imagine that will give me access. Looks like the pan will only drop a half inch before it hits something. Plus, how the hell do I seal it back up?
 
This would be the point where I would just yank the rest of the engine out if it were me. But if the oil pickup to timing cover is a machined fit there may not even be a gasket. So just bolting it up would be fine. Of course you could also unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the entire drivetrain probably high enough to shove a chunk of 4x4 under each one. It should go up quite a ways if the head is off. Then you would have enough room to pull the pan. Which is likely just sealed on there with that fantastic toyota black rtv.
 

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