Long story short...When I was 18, I flew to Ontario, bought a 1982 BJ42 landcruiser, and drove it all the way back to Alabama. I began a full restoration later that year, got it down to the frame, but never finished. Now I'm 39 and would like to finally finish the build, but this engine hasn't been cranked in over 2 decades. What is the best way to assess whether this engine is salvageable? If so, what would be a wise order of tasks in restoring this engine? Thanks!
Help Reviving 3B Diesel on 1982 BJ42
- Thread starter dapperwombat
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Clean it ! Take the engine out of the truck and slowly disassemble everything ... and clean clean clean ... then using new gaskets (available at a number of places, including Amayama, Megazip, etc.) put it back together. Blow out the fuel lines ... have the injection pump serviced at a diesel shop ... get new rod and main bearings ...
You get my drift. You are looking at a complete rebuild (easy if you are careful).
If you are really lucky the crankshaft won't be pitted with rust and the pistons won't have seized.
Many of us have done this several times !
You have a 3B. You will be fine.
I pulled one out of a storage container, after 15+ years of sitting, it ran like nothing happened. But that’s not my first 3B revival, I have done multiple.
All you really have to do, is make sure the intake is clear, and the engine has good oil.
Once you have verified that that both of those things are good. Throw a diesel can onto the injection pump, and prime the IP, remember
to crack the bleeder screw on the top. You won’t be able to start it with one good battery.
Then, disconnect EDIC, arm and supply 12V to your buss bar, to have glow plugs.
Then, jump the starter solenoid and let er rip! Make sure to do a compression test after.
I pulled one out of a storage container, after 15+ years of sitting, it ran like nothing happened. But that’s not my first 3B revival, I have done multiple.
All you really have to do, is make sure the intake is clear, and the engine has good oil.
Once you have verified that that both of those things are good. Throw a diesel can onto the injection pump, and prime the IP, remember
to crack the bleeder screw on the top. You won’t be able to start it with one good battery.
Then, disconnect EDIC, arm and supply 12V to your buss bar, to have glow plugs.
Then, jump the starter solenoid and let er rip! Make sure to do a compression test after.
3B Diesel Revival
This is the second 3B Diesel I have owned. This one sat for 15 years and previously started up first try. I am completely amazed by the reliability of Toyota...
youtu.be
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I would start by turning the engine over with a bar to establish that it is not seized with rust.
Also, a diesel with an inline pump that has been sitting for years is a good candidate for a runaway if the rack is stuck open, so be ready with your hand on the intake, or a CO2 extinguisher to kill it if it does.
Making sure the intake is clear is good advice.
Also, a diesel with an inline pump that has been sitting for years is a good candidate for a runaway if the rack is stuck open, so be ready with your hand on the intake, or a CO2 extinguisher to kill it if it does.
Making sure the intake is clear is good advice.
I’m pretty sure to officially start it up properly you are supposed to pre-prime it with oil?
Aren’t there pressure port for oil priming on the 3B? Not like I ever really bothered.
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- #7
Thanks for the encouraging reply. As you might have guessed, this will be my first engine rebuild. Any tips (that you didn't mention above) that you have for a noob about to disassemble his first engine?
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I think there is a very long list of things that 'should' be done. But is the OP checking if the engine is total junk or is it a given that it will be stripped and rebuilt?
If the latter, it's a good engine to learn on, but be aware that many early 3B parts are hard to come by).
I'm not familiar with the inline pumps on the 3B, only the rotary type. But if attempting a start, the engine 'should' indeed be filled with oil and cranked with the plugs out until there is oil pressure.
But as you hint at, this is hardly a new tight tolerance engine and just starting it and letting it fill the air with filthy smoke and vapour won't kill it as long as the ost basic precautions are taken.
Get an engine manual before doing anything. I should have mentioned that at the outset ... They can be obtained at a reasonable cost from many of our regular suppliers; and there may be a digital one here on mud.
After so long the fuel rail may be gummed up.. pop the EDIC rod off and see if the Fuel Control Lever moves forward and pops back smartly..
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Some good advice here - before you turn it over by hand, spray something like a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone into the cylinders through the glow plug or injector holes. You'll want to change the oil after doing this and verifying it's not seized with this mix going to eventually drain into the sump (but you should do that anyway)
If it turns freely and you want to try to run it, build oil pressure (ideally with fresh oil) with either glow plugs or injectors removed, bit easier on what are probably pretty dry bearings with no compression until everything has a nice film of oil over it and you can verify it actually makes oil pressure before starting.
Can't emphasize enough the comments about having a means to block the intake or a CO2 extinguisher to snuff the engine if anything goes south.
If it turns freely and you want to try to run it, build oil pressure (ideally with fresh oil) with either glow plugs or injectors removed, bit easier on what are probably pretty dry bearings with no compression until everything has a nice film of oil over it and you can verify it actually makes oil pressure before starting.
Can't emphasize enough the comments about having a means to block the intake or a CO2 extinguisher to snuff the engine if anything goes south.
I think it just need fuel and it would start right away. It’s diesel, no problems with old drying fuel.
I’d change the water pump and oil&filters and that’s it. If it runs then ok, just let it be.
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- #13
Thanks for the guidance from everyone. I’d like to do this right, so I’m going to try the rebuild (at least in part). I got the engine manual and followed the steps to take off the head to inspect the valve seats and cylinders. I haven’t done any precise measurements, but everything appears to be in pretty good shape to my untrained eye (see photos below). What should be my next step from here?
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On first sight that looks very good - the cylinders are all dry, no apparent damage to pistons and head. The head surface looks clean and clearly shows the original machining marks. Looks like that head gasket was not on for long as it is almost intact where it sits on the head.
I would clean up the head surface to look for cracks in between the valves in each cylinder, cracks between valves and pre-combustion chamber, and cracks in the pre-combustion chambers themselves (which are very common). Then valves out to look at valve seats and margins.
If you turn the engine over, what do the bores look like? Is there a ridge around the top of each cylinder (where the rings don't reach), are there still cross-hatch marks on the cylinder walls?
I would clean up the head surface to look for cracks in between the valves in each cylinder, cracks between valves and pre-combustion chamber, and cracks in the pre-combustion chambers themselves (which are very common). Then valves out to look at valve seats and margins.
If you turn the engine over, what do the bores look like? Is there a ridge around the top of each cylinder (where the rings don't reach), are there still cross-hatch marks on the cylinder walls?
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- #15
Engine turns over pretty easily. Looks like there is a small ridge at the top of each cylinder and no cross-hatch marks that I can see (see pic below). Any recommendations for what to use to clean up the head surface?
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Clean with a scraper, maybe a brass wire brush to get rid of any harder carbon deposits. Use petrol (gasoline) or something similar if needed. No power tools.
Check for cracks.
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- #18
I gave the head a preliminary cleaning, and the only cracks I can find are in the precombustion chambers. I’m guessing these will all need to be replaced, but I guess my next step is to remove and inspect the valves? Here are some pics of the head:
They always are, no need if only that kind of crack.
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- #20
So you wouldn’t advise replacing them?
