Help Replacing Rear Door Window (1 Viewer)

[EPIC Cruisers]

Hey guys,

When I bought my LX the rear passenger door had a LC window put in after the original was broken. I'm in the process of replacing it with the proper LX window however the one I purchased has some rust on the mount and I want to swap them out. I've tried pulling on it but I feel like it'll break if I pull on it too hard. I just want to confirm that this piece does come off? If so, I can cut it off with a Dremel and install the one from my current window which is in better condition. I found the part in the online FSM talking about removing the glass but I don't see anything in regards to this piece. Any tips or info will appreciated.

 

[gummycarbs]

Yes, it comes off the window glass. There should be a rubber gasket between the metal and the glass. Yours looks distorted, so maybe someone pinched it onto the glass. Or maybe they filled it with adhesive.

They usually come apart too easily. When the run channel rubber degrades, the motor will pull the bracket off the glass, leaving your window sliding free. Both of my rear windows were like that when I bought mine. I'm surprised yours is sticking so tenaciously.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

Yes, it comes off the window glass. There should be a rubber gasket between the metal and the glass. Yours looks distorted, so maybe someone pinched it onto the glass. Or maybe they filled it with adhesive.

They usually come apart too easily. When the run channel rubber degrades, the motor will pull the bracket off the glass, leaving your window sliding free. Both of my rear windows were like that when I bought mine. I'm surprised yours is sticking so tenaciously.

Yeah the one I took out came off really easily. I'm just going to Dremel these off

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

On second thought...since they're attached so well I'm just going to wire brush them and spray paint them with some rustoleum.

 

[gummycarbs]

I like vinegar water and a scotch-brite scrubbing to neutralize rust on stuff like that.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

On third thought, and based on another members suggestion, I went ahead and took off the rusted channel/mount with a rubber mallet. It took about 10 firm hits but it finally popped off. I'm glad I decided to do this because the rust inside the channel was even worse than the outside. I re-used the mount from my rig for now but will replace it with a new one later on.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

Got my door put back together last night but ran into a small issue. Whenever the window is all the way down and I begin to raise it up the entire window shifts as if its loose in the window run. I tried adjusting the entire window rail but it doesn't seem to help at all. My rubber window runs are old so I'm wondering if that would be causing the extra play? Or is there another place where the adjustment can be made?

 

[Beau Diddly]

The window runs degrade after 20-25 years (depending on conditions) and they should be the first to be replaced. I believe nearly every window problem starts the rubber window runs. Once it begins to degrade, it takes more force to push the window and thats when problems happen, e.g., popping out of the filler, burning the motor, etc. Do not lubricate the run, it will only attract more dirt and grit, making the problem worse.

Also, you shouldn't have that much rust in your lift channel. Check your belt weather strip. Make sure your vapor barrier is intact, if not, replace it with a shower curtain cut to size and butyl.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

The window runs degrade after 20-25 years (depending on conditions) and they should be the first to be replaced. I believe nearly every window problem starts the rubber window runs. Once it begins to degrade, it takes more force to push the window and thats when problems happen, e.g., popping out of the filler, burning the motor, etc. Do not lubricate the run, it will only attract more dirt and grit, making the problem worse.

Also, you shouldn't have that much rust in your lift channel. Check your belt weather strip. Make sure your vapor barrier is intact, if not, replace it with a shower curtain cut to size and butyl.

I'll be ordering new window runs this week and putting them in this weekend. My lift channel was in good condition, it was the one that came with the replacement used window that was completely rusted out (from up north). I'm hoping that new window runs fix the slop, however it just seems like an excessive amount of play to be all from the old runs. However I hope to be wrong and have it fix my issue.

 

[gummycarbs]

The original runs get *nasty*. Mine were so hardened and brittle that they're snapping off at the bottom.

In my opinion, almost all of the "slow window" behavior you see on these is due to the old channel runs. The rear window's runs are both vertical, which means a ton of resistance. The front windows only have to push their way through one vertical run.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

My main issue is not so much that my windows are slow to go up and down. It's that the window has a lot of play, aka, the top of the window doesn't stay parallel to the top of the door as it's going up and down. I can grab the glass and rock it forwards and backwards about 1/4-1/2 an inch. Is this normal or could it possibly be fixed by the window runs? I'm going to replace them regardless but wanted to make sure that there isn't a way to adjust them that I am missing.

 

[LINUS]

I'm going to assume what you're calling forwards & backwards is L&R as you face the glass from the side of the vehicle.

I'd pull out both side window runs, look at the big "L" shaped one that is the FR edge run & top gasket. And pull the simple run / RR edge gasket & see if either is split - also, if the "L" shaped one is split in the turn, the forward edge will keep sliding down every time you work the glass.

Another idea is where the pinch track is positioned on the glass - did you tighten the bolt after letting the glass find its' own center in the runs?

It took some massaging, but I've had to do both a FR door & RR door, the above were all helpful in the final tune.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

I'm going to assume what you're calling forwards & backwards is L&R as you face the glass from the side of the vehicle.

I'd pull out both side window runs, look at the big "L" shaped one that is the FR edge run & top gasket. And pull the simple run / RR edge gasket & see if either is split - also, if the "L" shaped one is split in the turn, the forward edge will keep sliding down every time you work the glass.

Another idea is where the pinch track is positioned on the glass - did you tighten the bolt after letting the glass find its' own center in the runs?

It took some massaging, but I've had to do both a FR door & RR door, the above were all helpful in the final tune.

Correct, that's what I'm referring to. I'm sorry but I'm having a tough time understanding your instructions (not because they're bad instructions but simply because of my inexperience).

- When you say look at the big "L" are you talking about the window rail that's held by screw under the top of the door seal? Or the actual rubber window run that goes in that rail?
- Also what do you mean by "find its own center"?

Thanks for the help

 

[LINUS]

I used "L" as the overall shape the vertical forward window run is and is the same piece of rubber/foam that is the top gasket.

It sits inside the forward / L guide channel & the top door frame channel.

It's really 1st to go at the 90* and then the vertical portion slides down in the door.

As for "find its' center" - if you loosen the single bolt to the glass holder from the cable runner ear, there's enough slop to recenter the glass in case you placed the rubber & glass holder either too far to either side edge of the glass.

I have made a habit of Sharpie marking the glass when cleaning/teardown - if you weren't using old dust/dirt marks to reference then it's possible the glass is placed too far to either side & causing the bind you're getting.

 

[Malleus]

The window runs degrade after 20-25 years (depending on conditions) and they should be the first to be replaced. I believe nearly every window problem starts the rubber window runs. Once it begins to degrade, it takes more force to push the window and thats when problems happen, e.g., popping out of the filler, burning the motor, etc. Do not lubricate the run, it will only attract more dirt and grit, making the problem worse.

Also, you shouldn't have that much rust in your lift channel. Check your belt weather strip. Make sure your vapor barrier is intact, if not, replace it with a shower curtain cut to size and butyl.

^this

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

I used "L" as the overall shape the vertical forward window run is and is the same piece of rubber/foam that is the top gasket.

It sits inside the forward / L guide channel & the top door frame channel.

It's really 1st to go at the 90* and then the vertical portion slides down in the door.

As for "find its' center" - if you loosen the single bolt to the glass holder from the cable runner ear, there's enough slop to recenter the glass in case you placed the rubber & glass holder either too far to either side edge of the glass.

I have made a habit of Sharpie marking the glass when cleaning/teardown - if you weren't using old dust/dirt marks to reference then it's possible the glass is placed too far to either side & causing the bind you're getting.

I think mine is missing the bolt on the glass holder. When I replace the window runs on the other side I'll look and see if there's any bolts missing.

 

[LINUS]

^^^^ Maybe not. I'm realizing the last door I did was my FR L door (full swap, I dented the skin & found a perfect black door).

The rear channel metal/ rubber for rhe glass IIRC runs on a white teflon/etc plastic grommet that runs laterally in the door as the glass goes up & down.

I'm at the age I'm forgetting isht, and I'm pretty sure I did it yesterday.

The rear doors ride on the side gasket rubber, but it seems there was a pretty intuitive place the glass support guide sat - like the glass is shaped on both sides of the place the rubber/metal gutter grip it.

Are all the spot welds of the metal glass support intact?
One of mine was broke, so the gravity help made it retract fine, but going up it bound. I replaced it, mine was bent from all the flexing & I just found one in the classifieds/parting section here.

 

[EPIC Cruisers]

^^^^ Maybe not. I'm realizing the last door I did was my FR L door (full swap, I dented the skin & found a perfect black door).

The rear channel metal/ rubber for rhe glass IIRC runs on a white teflon/etc plastic grommet that runs laterally in the door as the glass goes up & down.

I'm at the age I'm forgetting isht, and I'm pretty sure I did it yesterday.

The rear doors ride on the side gasket rubber, but it seems there was a pretty intuitive place the glass support guide sat - like the glass is shaped on both sides of the place the rubber/metal gutter grip it.

Are all the spot welds of the metal glass support intact?
One of mine was broke, so the gravity help made it retract fine, but going up it bound. I replaced it, mine was bent from all the flexing & I just found one in the classifieds/parting section here.

The spot welds looked okay however I'm going ahead and replacing everything this weekend. That includes the window runs, channels, and fillers for both rear doors. Hopefully that'll get rid of the slop. I'll post with some updates once I get everything installed