So I had to replace the sending unit in the tank and since the fuel pump does fit through the access hole inside I had to pull the tank. One of the lines underneath that needed to be disconnected was a vent line that runs from the tank to the evap canister and the clip connecting the lines literally broke as I started to squeeze it while removing it. I replaced the sending unit and reinstalled the tank then went to the dealer to order the clip but they don't show it on their computer. The vent line that the clip attaches to is not replaceable so according to the dealer I must replace the tank in order to get this line secured with a new clip. I have been searching youtube videos of Toyotas with the 5.7L having the fuel pump replaced to see if they have the same clip but Im coming up empty handed. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Photos of the line and clip.
Help please, broken clip on fuel tank vent line to evap canister. 2008 LC (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Alpinhi
- Start date
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I thought I'd try to help find the clip, but I'm not having any luck finding an image to confirm.
My guess this is a part that Toyota lumps into "Standard Parts". If someone wiser than me doesn't jump in here I think you may have to visit the dealer and ask for them to match up the part. A couple of "standard parts", one of which may or may not might be it (found no images to verify) are:
96133-41501 and 96133-41301
My guess this is a part that Toyota lumps into "Standard Parts". If someone wiser than me doesn't jump in here I think you may have to visit the dealer and ask for them to match up the part. A couple of "standard parts", one of which may or may not might be it (found no images to verify) are:
96133-41501 and 96133-41301
- Thread starter
- #3
I took the part into the dealer with me and going off of the exploded view at the parts counter I can see the line and the connection but it does not offer or show a clip. We did order 90460-46005 but it was not correct, this part was a clamp for the filler neck. The exploded view below is the one the dealer brought up on their PC, I circled what I believe is the connection but its funny it doesn't show the other half of the line. I ran into the same thing you found on your search, for the price I might just try my luck.
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I’ve been staring these down for a bit setting up for a sub tank install. The other end of the hose is 77404.
early years is 7740460030
later years 7740460050
there is a second diagram showing the long run hoses
How much time was it to drop the main tank @Alpinhi ? Any hints?
early years is 7740460030
later years 7740460050
there is a second diagram showing the long run hoses
FUEL TANK & TUBE for LEXUS LX570 URJ201L-GNTGKA FUEL TUBE ILLUST NO. 2 OF 2(0711- ), U.S. market, 2007/11 - 2012/01 | URJ201 3URFE ATM
FUEL TANK & TUBE for LEXUS LX570 URJ201L-GNTGKA, U.S. market. 2007/11 - 2012/01 | URJ201 3URFE ATM FUEL TUBE ILLUST NO. 2 OF 2(0711- )
usa.toylexparts.com
How much time was it to drop the main tank @Alpinhi ? Any hints?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
What about calling one of the big cruiser shops to see if they have a parts rig? I have to believe that this part is not unique to the cruiser. Maybe it is a part that is compatible with the Tundra? I saw on the Tundra boards that a bunch of 2nd gen people are putting in the 38 gallon tanks, maybe one of them might have the parts they removed? A salvage yard maybe, but I doubt they'd do it since the labor and effort outweigh the profit.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I bet removing it is quick, pull the two clevis pins, remove the two pins, unplug some connectors. 30 min max?
That green clip seems to be used elsewhere in the fuel system, namely the charcoal canister fittings.
You might be able to source a smaller tube or part there to harvest the clip? Or swap the broken clip into one of the more non-critical fitting at the charcoal canister.
No guarantees, and still not cheap at $62, but part #77706-60040 vapor filter assembly may have the clip, hopefully of the right size.
You might be able to source a smaller tube or part there to harvest the clip? Or swap the broken clip into one of the more non-critical fitting at the charcoal canister.
No guarantees, and still not cheap at $62, but part #77706-60040 vapor filter assembly may have the clip, hopefully of the right size.
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I've had these apart now. The Green clip is not meant to pull all the way out. Just pull it up about 1/2 the hose thickness. It now will clear the rib on the mating pipe and slide off. If removed all the way it is very likely to break at least one side. Ask me how I know . . .
As to parts, the cheapest way to get one is to buy the filter assembly hose that goes between the charcoal canister and the air filter after the charcoal canister as suggested above. A 14mm brass barb can be used to join the new clamp and hose assembly with the old emissions hose, they are all the same size from the tank to canister to the air filter. One has a 90 at the canister, the other is straight, but this is not much of a concern in practicality.
The clamp can also be replaced with a suitable width plastic cable tie. All it is doing is preventing the hose from disconnecting once fit on. The cable tie if inserted in the same way as the clamp will bind the joint and prevent disconnection.
I would wager that the green clamp pictured at the top of the thread would also still work fine when resused. Not optimal, but fine.
As to parts, the cheapest way to get one is to buy the filter assembly hose that goes between the charcoal canister and the air filter after the charcoal canister as suggested above. A 14mm brass barb can be used to join the new clamp and hose assembly with the old emissions hose, they are all the same size from the tank to canister to the air filter. One has a 90 at the canister, the other is straight, but this is not much of a concern in practicality.
The clamp can also be replaced with a suitable width plastic cable tie. All it is doing is preventing the hose from disconnecting once fit on. The cable tie if inserted in the same way as the clamp will bind the joint and prevent disconnection.
I would wager that the green clamp pictured at the top of the thread would also still work fine when resused. Not optimal, but fine.
