Help me settle this: LC200 wheel offset & stance tradeoffs

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Joined
Nov 14, 2020
Threads
8
Messages
35
Location
Boston
Hi all,
I'm trying to decide on some new wheels for my LC. I’m hoping to lean on the collective experience here to finally put this decision to rest. I’ve been circling this for a while and have gone back and forth more times than I’d like to admit. Even ChatGPT told me I'm overthinking it, but what does it know?

Truck/setup:
2016 LC200
2” lift
SPC UCAs
285/65R18 Toyo Open Country AT3 tires
Stock body, wheels, and mud flaps (for now)

The two finalists:

Braid Winrace T
– 18x8, +55 offset, 110 mm center bore, $2700 before shipping; likely $4100 including shipping and tariffs
1767795891436.webp


4 x 4 Engineering Bradley V (or Takumi, which is a forged version) – 18x8.5, +50 offset, 118 mm center bore, $2400 (all-in) on the Bradley V and $4500 for the Forged Takumi)

1767796075138.webp
1767796105973.webp


Both the BRAIDs and the Bradley Vs are similar in weight, strength, and other key attributes. Of course, the forged Bradley Takumi is stronger than both cast wheels, but it costs significantly more than the V. The BRAIDs would be run close to stock (an 18x8 with a +56 offset), though I could spec a slightly lower offset since they’re custom-made. I like the Bradley Vs slightly more in terms of looks and its JDM heritage, but the extra width and lower offset would push the wheels out about 0.5" per side. I’m well aware that changing offset and track width can affect things like scrub radius, steering feel, kickback, and long-term wear, and I’m not trying to sacrifice how the truck drives just for looks. I’m also trying to avoid extra rock spray and sandblasting the doors and panels—especially with AT3s, which seem to hold onto every pebble they can find. That said, I do like the look of a slightly wider stance if it doesn’t come with meaningful downsides. For additional context, the truck spends most of its time on pavement, with occasional trail and light off-road use.

What I’m hoping to hear from are people actually running something comparable, for example:
  • +50 on an 8.5” wheel
  • +45 on an 8” wheel
  • Anything close with 285/65R18s on a 200
Specific questions:
  1. With a +50 offset on an 8.5” wheel and 285/65R18s, does the tire sit flush with the fender, or is there noticeable poke?
  2. For those who’ve gone from near-OEM offsets to +45 / +50, did you notice meaningful changes in:
    • On-center steering feel
    • Road manners/highway tracking
    • Off-road performance (stability, side-hilling, confidence)?
  3. Are there actual performance benefits to going slightly wider on a 200, or is it mostly visual?
  4. Downsides: Have you experienced increased rock spray, paint chips, or debris hitting the doors/quarters compared to OEM offset?
  5. If you’ve run stock mud flaps with these offsets—was that sufficient, or did you need to add rally-style flaps?
For additional context: I initially pursued the OEM route and seriously considered the 2019 Tundra TRD Pro wheels. They made sense on paper, but I never quite loved the look. I’m aiming for something a bit more OEM+ / rally-inspired, which is how I ended up here. I also want to thank everyone who weighed in during those earlier threads—those opinions helped narrow things considerably.

At this point, I’m less interested in theory and more interested in lived experience. So, if you’re running a similar setup (or have run one in the past), I’d really appreciate hearing how it’s worked out long term.

Thanks in advance—this forum has been incredibly helpful, and I’m hoping this is the last nudge I need to finally pull the trigger.

—Todd
 
First reaction:

The 118mm center bore on those 4x4 Engineering wheels will not work. Our LC200/LX570 vehicles are hub-centric and require a center bore of 110.1mm or thereabouts. Any wheel with a larger bore will put all the strain on the lug nuts and none on the hub - the technical term for that is, "bad."

So... my vote is for the Braid wheels.

HTH
 
That's interesting. I know some people run Bradleys on 200s, and 4x4 Engineering lists both the Bradley V and Takumi as 200 series compatible. Maybe they use hub rings? But given the LC's weight, that may not be a great idea. I was under the impression that the center bore was primarily for centering the wheel, but you do make a good point about extra strain on the lugs.
 
At this point, I’m less interested in theory and more interested in lived experience.

Youre on the wrong forum for that sir! :P
 
What I’m hoping to hear from are people actually running something comparable, for example:
  • +50 on an 8.5” wheel
  • +45 on an 8” wheel
  • Anything close with 285/65R18s on a 200

How about what Toyota actually recommend for use on the LC200?

I am running the TRD 17" alloy wheels which have a 50mm offset in combo with the Toyota recommended 285/70R17 BFG A/T tires.

That gives me a 50mm offset on an 8" wide wheel with a tire that is 32.8" in diameter

This would be almost exactly the same as a 50mm offset on an 18" wheel with your LT285/65R18 Toyo OP AT3 tires which are 32.6" in diameter.

That combo would keep all suspension geometries within factory spec including scrub radius.

Sources:
Toyota 17" TRD Alloy Wheel Tech Guide recommending LT285/70R17 tires on this 8" wide wheel: Rock Warrior Install Guide
BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2 Specs on TireRack: BFG A-T T/A KO2 Specs
Toyo Open Country ATS Specs on TireRack: Toyo OC AT3 Specs

HTH
 
  1. With a +50 offset on an 8.5” wheel and 285/65R18s, does the tire sit flush with the fender, or is there noticeable poke?
  2. For those who’ve gone from near-OEM offsets to +45 / +50, did you notice meaningful changes in:
    • On-center steering feel
    • Road manners/highway tracking
    • Off-road performance (stability, side-hilling, confidence)?
  3. Are there actual performance benefits to going slightly wider on a 200, or is it mostly visual?
  4. Downsides: Have you experienced increased rock spray, paint chips, or debris hitting the doors/quarters compared to OEM offset?
  5. If you’ve run stock mud flaps with these offsets—was that sufficient, or did you need to add rally-style flaps?

1. No poke and inset about 15mm. Not a bad place to be. Suspension geometry / scrub radius would be about perfect

2. Overall tire diameter play into optimal offset. As you're going with a taller ~32.6" overall diameter tire, +50mm offset is spot on perfect for the qualities you mentioned. This is informed by Rock Warrior +50 OEM wheel fitment for a 32.7" tire

3. Going slightly wider in track width while staying close to optimal geometry can have the benefit of more side hill / off camber stability, while also keeping rocks and side obstacles away from the body - important if you're into more aggressive rock crawling. Jeeps use this to their advantage.

4. You won't have enough poke to be concerned about this.

5. Even at +25mm that many use, the spray is manageable (if you retain OEM mudflaps)


Couple other notes - ideally the wheels are hub centric. It's strictly there for centering. Without it, just have to be more diligent in mounting wheels by snugging up the lugs in several passes while spinning the wheel to find center. Yes, you can use aftermarket centering rings too.

If you're getting custom wheels, I would highly recommend an offset of 18x8 +35.
- 8.5" width for a narrow tire like a 285 may compromise bead retention when lowering pressures.
- +35 will give you some of the benefits stated above while staying in the thick of good geometry. It will also allow you room to go larger in tire size in the future with the same wheels.
 
How about what Toyota actually recommend for use on the LC200?

I am running the TRD 17" alloy wheels which have a 50mm offset in combo with the Toyota recommended 285/70R17 BFG A/T tires.

That gives me a 50mm offset on an 8" wide wheel with a tire that is 32.8" in diameter

This would be almost exactly the same as a 50mm offset on an 18" wheel with your LT285/65R18 Toyo OP AT3 tires which are 32.6" in diameter.

That combo would keep all suspension geometries within factory spec including scrub radius.

Sources:
Toyota 17" TRD Alloy Wheel Tech Guide recommending LT285/70R17 tires on this 8" wide wheel: Rock Warrior Install Guide
BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2 Specs on TireRack: BFG A-T T/A KO2 Specs
Toyo Open Country ATS Specs on TireRack: Toyo OC AT3 Specs
I mean, what does Toyota know? ☺️

Seriously, though, this is helpful. So, it seems that if I go with BRAID 8" wide wheel at +50, I would be able to keep all suspension geometries within factory spec, while still increasing the stance slightly.
 
I mean, what does Toyota know? ☺️

Seriously, though, this is helpful. So, it seems that if I go with BRAID 8" wide wheel at +50, I would be able to keep all suspension geometries within factory spec, while still increasing the stance slightly.

Correct.
 
1. No poke and inset about 15mm. Not a bad place to be. Suspension geometry / scrub radius would be about perfect

2. Overall tire diameter play into optimal offset. As you're going with a taller ~32.6" overall diameter tire, +50mm offset is spot on perfect for the qualities you mentioned. This is informed by Rock Warrior +50 OEM wheel fitment for a 32.7" tire

3. Going slightly wider in track width while staying close to optimal geometry can have the benefit of more side hill / off camber stability, while also keeping rocks and side obstacles away from the body - important if you're into more aggressive rock crawling. Jeeps use this to their advantage.

4. You won't have enough poke to be concerned about this.

5. Even at +25mm that many use, the spray is manageable (if you retain OEM mudflaps)


Couple other notes - ideally the wheels are hub centric. It's strictly there for centering. Without it, just have to be more diligent in mounting wheels by snugging up the lugs in several passes while spinning the wheel to find center. Yes, you can use aftermarket centering rings too.

If you're getting custom wheels, I would highly recommend an offset of 18x8 +35.
- 8.5" width for a narrow tire like a 285 may compromise bead retention when lowering pressures.
- +35 will give you some of the benefits stated above while staying in the thick of good geometry. It will also allow you room to go larger in tire size in the future with the same wheels.
I’m on +35 rims and with the OEM flaps my paint gets trashed off roading from spray and sling.
 
I’m on +35 rims and with the OEM flaps my paint gets trashed off roading from spray and sling.

Alaska may warrant a different level of flap protection. Particularly with more aggressive tires that pick up gravel and rocks.
 
Alaska may warrant a different level of flap protection. Particularly with more aggressive tires that pick up gravel and rocks.
I do put in 2-5k miles a summer off road. Also even worse for sling is state uses sand and gravel in the place of salt on the roads in the winter, almost all the spray in liner is gone from inside my wheel wells.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments and help on this decision. I decided to follow the specs for the TRD Rock Warrior wheels, so I'm ordering the 18x8 BRAID with a +50 offset. I'm hoping that brings the tires almost flush but doesn't change much in terms of on-road handling.

I'll post some pics once they're fitted.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments and help on this decision. I decided to follow the specs for the TRD Rock Warrior wheels, so I'm ordering the 18x8 BRAID with a +50 offset. I'm hoping that brings the tires almost flush but doesn't change much in terms of on-road handling.

I'll post some pics once they're fitted.

+50 offset is not almost flush though. The rock warriors are also 17".
 
+50 offset is not almost flush though. The rock warriors are also 17".
Thanks for the comment. The BRAID wheel is 18", but the width is still 8". I don’t believe wheel diameter changes the offset, though I could be mistaken. Either way, I’m aiming to stay fairly close to what Toyota has approved rather than pushing the fitment too far.
 
Thanks for the comment. The BRAID wheel is 18", but the width is still 8". I don’t believe wheel diameter changes the offset, though I could be mistaken. Either way, I’m aiming to stay fairly close to what Toyota has approved rather than pushing the fitment too far.

Wheel diameter doesn't changed offset. If you would like to be flush or close to it you need a wheel with a offset of around +25 to +35
 
Hi all,
I'm trying to decide on some new wheels for my LC. I’m hoping to lean on the collective experience here to finally put this decision to rest. I’ve been circling this for a while and have gone back and forth more times than I’d like to admit. Even ChatGPT told me I'm overthinking it, but what does it know?

Truck/setup:
2016 LC200
2” lift
SPC UCAs
285/65R18 Toyo Open Country AT3 tires
Stock body, wheels, and mud flaps (for now)

The two finalists:

Braid Winrace T
– 18x8, +55 offset, 110 mm center bore, $2700 before shipping; likely $4100 including shipping and tariffs
View attachment 4063127

4 x 4 Engineering Bradley V (or Takumi, which is a forged version) – 18x8.5, +50 offset, 118 mm center bore, $2400 (all-in) on the Bradley V and $4500 for the Forged Takumi)

View attachment 4063128View attachment 4063129

Both the BRAIDs and the Bradley Vs are similar in weight, strength, and other key attributes. Of course, the forged Bradley Takumi is stronger than both cast wheels, but it costs significantly more than the V. The BRAIDs would be run close to stock (an 18x8 with a +56 offset), though I could spec a slightly lower offset since they’re custom-made. I like the Bradley Vs slightly more in terms of looks and its JDM heritage, but the extra width and lower offset would push the wheels out about 0.5" per side. I’m well aware that changing offset and track width can affect things like scrub radius, steering feel, kickback, and long-term wear, and I’m not trying to sacrifice how the truck drives just for looks. I’m also trying to avoid extra rock spray and sandblasting the doors and panels—especially with AT3s, which seem to hold onto every pebble they can find. That said, I do like the look of a slightly wider stance if it doesn’t come with meaningful downsides. For additional context, the truck spends most of its time on pavement, with occasional trail and light off-road use.

What I’m hoping to hear from are people actually running something comparable, for example:
  • +50 on an 8.5” wheel
  • +45 on an 8” wheel
  • Anything close with 285/65R18s on a 200
Specific questions:
  1. With a +50 offset on an 8.5” wheel and 285/65R18s, does the tire sit flush with the fender, or is there noticeable poke?
  2. For those who’ve gone from near-OEM offsets to +45 / +50, did you notice meaningful changes in:
    • On-center steering feel
    • Road manners/highway tracking
    • Off-road performance (stability, side-hilling, confidence)?
  3. Are there actual performance benefits to going slightly wider on a 200, or is it mostly visual?
  4. Downsides: Have you experienced increased rock spray, paint chips, or debris hitting the doors/quarters compared to OEM offset?
  5. If you’ve run stock mud flaps with these offsets—was that sufficient, or did you need to add rally-style flaps?
For additional context: I initially pursued the OEM route and seriously considered the 2019 Tundra TRD Pro wheels. They made sense on paper, but I never quite loved the look. I’m aiming for something a bit more OEM+ / rally-inspired, which is how I ended up here. I also want to thank everyone who weighed in during those earlier threads—those opinions helped narrow things considerably.

At this point, I’m less interested in theory and more interested in lived experience. So, if you’re running a similar setup (or have run one in the past), I’d really appreciate hearing how it’s worked out long term.

Thanks in advance—this forum has been incredibly helpful, and I’m hoping this is the last nudge I need to finally pull the trigger.

—Todd
Where are you ordering the braid wheels from? I would like to also order a set. My goal is identical to yours except I have an lx570. I was debating between these two sets of wheels in addition to dakarzero in the +40 offset (except I’m not a fan of the look for the 18 inch version)
 
I sourced mine directly from BRAID Wheels USA (braidusa.com). The person I’ve been working with is Paul Eddleston. He's a nice guy who will walk you through the process. He's very responsive and genuinely wants to help. Honestly, he seems like a great guy who knows a ton about BRAID wheels. Right now, we're discussing whether the wheels will work with my Powerbrake Big Brakes. Fingers crossed. You can call (248-419-2891) or email him (paul@braidusa.com).

The BRAID manufacturing plant is in Spain, but BRAID USA is actually located in Michigan. My understanding is that they were shipping wheels directly from MI, but then the tariffs changed, so I think the wheels are now shipped directly from Spain. What I really liked about the BRAID wheels is how customizable they are. If you plan to add center caps, have them do it at the factory.

I strongly considered the Evo Corse wheels, and they actually got me going down this path, but I think the highest offset they have is +45. Also, I believe it's an 8.5" wheel, which moves things out even further. A lot of people run those, but it didn't match what I am looking for, which is more OEM+. Evo Corse doesn't mention tariffs unless you ask, but they're about the same as the BRAID wheels from Spain.
 
I sourced mine directly from BRAID Wheels USA (braidusa.com). The person I’ve been working with is Paul Eddleston. He's a nice guy who will walk you through the process. He's very responsive and genuinely wants to help. Honestly, he seems like a great guy who knows a ton about BRAID wheels. Right now, we're discussing whether the wheels will work with my Powerbrake Big Brakes. Fingers crossed. You can call (248-419-2891) or email him (paul@braidusa.com).

The BRAID manufacturing plant is in Spain, but BRAID USA is actually located in Michigan. My understanding is that they were shipping wheels directly from MI, but then the tariffs changed, so I think the wheels are now shipped directly from Spain. What I really liked about the BRAID wheels is how customizable they are. If you plan to add center caps, have them do it at the factory.

I strongly considered the Evo Corse wheels, and they actually got me going down this path, but I think the highest offset they have is +45. Also, I believe it's an 8.5" wheel, which moves things out even further. A lot of people run those, but it didn't match what I am looking for, which is more OEM+. Evo Corse doesn't mention tariffs unless you ask, but they're about the same as the BRAID wheels from Spain.
Nice keep us updated on how it goes. I emailed them yesterday about color customization (I want a dark bronze) and Paul already got back to me. Do you know what offset I should consider if I go with the 17x7.5 Winrace T option to keep all the OEM configurations? I have stock brakes. Debating whether to do 17 or 18s for my 2021 570
 
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