HELP! - Mating tub to chassis - TC high/low shaft is hitting bottom of the tub

[Steve Abbott]

I need some quick help. I'm finally mating the tub and chassis on my '65 after about 5 years of being disassembled. My 40 had an old worn out SBC and AT mated to a 3 speed TC when I bought it. I have since replaced the SBC with a fresh '78 2F with 4 speed trans and 4 speed TC. I am using an Energy Suspension body mount kit.

I noticed as I was installing the body mount kit that the tub wasn't fully resting on the frame up front. I quickly realized that the TC high/low actuator shaft was hitting the cross brace on the bottom of the tub. I am completely stumped as to what the issue is. I assume it has to do with the motor & transmission mounts not allowing the TC to sit low enough to clear the tub. I did have to source the 2 front motor mount brackets since mounts for the SBC had been utilized as well as all frame brackets. Mount insulators are aftermarket from SOR. Is it possible the trans mount brackets are the wrong ones, causing the trans to sit too high? Also the clutch arm is hitting the tub as well. I assume it should be below that cross brace that it's hitting. Any other ideas as to what the issue is? Here are several pictures showing my clearance issue and the motor mounts.

 

[Steve Abbott]

Bolt didn't line up with the thread not the bolt was too short? Did you loosen the back motor mounts? I did the front one first then the back which it just a bolt with loose nut. With front loose can use a larger punch to line up enough to get the bolt thru. The four speed is a tight fit with out cutting anything on tub or frame. I used a later four speed transmission cover which is taller and set up for the four boots for the shifters. The fan shroud hole might need to be enlarged to move the shroud up.

The bolt holes didn't line up. I shined a light down into the holes and both sides were pretty far off with the 1/4" shim. The more I think about it, I think you're right - loosen everything up to allow enough play to get the top bolt started then tighten everything after that. I'll try again tomorrow and report back.

For the tranny cover, I think I will cut the top off of the original '65 cover and weld in the top of a later cover, which I already have, so I can get a perfect fit at the floor and still have the correct hole alignment and clearance for the 4 speed.

 

[Living in the Past]

The bolt holes didn't line up. I shined a light down into the holes and both sides were pretty far off with the 1/4" shim. The more I think about it, I think you're right - loosen everything up to allow enough play to get the top bolt started then tighten everything after that. I'll try again tomorrow and report back.

For the tranny cover, I think I will cut the top off of the original '65 cover and weld in the top of a later cover, which I already have, so I can get a perfect fit at the floor and still have the correct hole alignment and clearance for the 4 speed.

Really doubt I need a 1/4" spacers. With the back loose using a 2X6 block of wood under the oil pan might be able to carefully lift the engine. I would put the spacer below the isolator. With there and bottom thread thru the mount might be able to get the bolt loosen tighten down. Then nut on the bottom.

 

[Steve Abbott]

Really doubt I need a 1/4" spacers. With the back loose using a 2X6 block of wood under the oil pan might be able to carefully lift the engine. I would put the spacer below the isolator. With there and bottom thread thru the mount might be able to get the bolt loosen tighten down. Then nut on the bottom.

The biggest issue I see with putting the spacer under the isolator is that the built in stud isn't very long, so you can't fit a very thick spacer and still have enough threads left for the nut to make full contact with the stud. I'll measure tomorrow to see what I can fit in there.

 

[White Stripe]

The biggest issue I see with putting the spacer under the isolator is that the built in stud isn't very long, so you can't fit a very thick spacer and still have enough threads left for the nut to make full contact with the stud. I'll measure tomorrow to see what I can fit in there.

Pull the top cover off of the tcase, plug the stock breather hole, drill and tap a new hole on the cover in an area it will clear. That's my idea anyway.

 

[Steve Abbott]

Pull the top cover off of the tcase, plug the stock breather hole, drill and tap a new hole on the cover in an area it will clear. That's my idea anyway.

It's not hitting the breather, it's hitting the high/low actuator shaft. I wish it was the breather because your idea would be perfect.