Help! Huskvarna 365 just seized...

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splitshot said:
Charles, I think this was meant to go in your box;)



Got to be late 70's or early 80's.:cool:
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I will stand my comment about the West Germans having better engineering than Sweden.

Anyone know what is the best selling chainsaw in Sweden? It is not Huskvarna.
 
jema said:
Germans don't know much about forestry - they are sadly enough big fans of "close to nature"-thinking.

Sweden have the leading forestry knowledge, together with finland. Sorry to say, but your way of forestry is a joke to us. CTL-methods are a big improvement if you would to introduce that. In sweden we already are talking about "lean production". Call me when you are thinking of that... ;)

I know what I'm talking about, since I have a master of science in forestry degree, educated side by side with students from all around the world.
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We're talking about chainsaws in this thread. What does a masters degree have to do with who builds the best chainsaws? Does West Germans have more engineering PHDs than Sweden?
 
MrMoMo said:
Hey D'Animal - thanks for the quick help. Saw is completely apart awaiting parts. I've gone with aftermarket at this point due to price point. If they only last the rest of this season I am fine with that. After that I'll get a new saw.

Thought I'd point you to another forum, that I don't know if you are aware of. I found it when looking for my backhoe - but more recently found the forrestry equipment section. You might find some interest here (if'n ya havn't already been there!)

Forestry Equipment - Heavy Equipment Forums


Might find some interest in this one...
http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=12428


Bruce
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I am curious what it cost.:hhmm:
 
Hey D'Animal.... any tips for re-assembly? I've got my parts! Not sure if it was a mistake or not, I got two gaskets for the crank case halfs... I would assume I should only use one there. Is there a sealant I should apply as well? Any break in tips?

Thanks!
 
I use a sealant called Dirko. It is an RTV sealant that is impervious to all chemicals.

Are the gaskets for the crank case or the cylinder? if it is for the crankcase, use just one. If it is for the cylinder, use the thinner one. Do not use any gasket sealant on the cylinder gasket.

As far as break in, I would not run it wide open throttle for a bit. let it idle for a little while to warm up and "goose" the throttle to make sure it is running good.

When cutting, avoid lugging the engine down. Let the chain cut and do the work.
 
Awesome, thanks. The two gaskets are for the crank case halves, I think they were just stuck together when they picked the part. There was no sealant on the cylinder gasket when I took it apart so I was not going to put any there, just couldn't tell with the crank case halves as the gasket tore when I took it apart.

Thanks again!
 
AARARRRRRRGH....

Got the whole thing back together and now I have no spark. Checked the gap, seems good. Tried a different plug - no luck, pulled the ground from the switch... same.

So... what would cause the coil to go at the same time as the bearing?

MOFO'er. It's getting cold here - I need to get my wood cut!
 
How the ignition system works on a saw is the magnets on the flywheel ground throught the flywheel itself. The flywheel grounds to the crankshaft, the crankshaft grounds through the main bearings, the main bearings ground to the cylinder and the cylinder grounds to the spark plug.

Too much sealant on a gasket or too much grease on the cranshaft bearing or a film of anything on the taper of the crankshaft where seats it will loose the ground.

The ignition module itself does not have to be grounded.
 
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Hmm... tried two different plugs, and eventually the spark started. Put the original plug back in and its fine now...

Time to mix some good gas and get cutting!!!

Thanks to everyone who had input to get me through this...
 
You just cranked it enough to get the factpory grease worked around inside the bearings so the ground could make contact.

D'Animal said:
Too much sealant on a gasket or too much grease on the crankshaft bearing or a film of anything on the taper of the crankshaft where seats it will loose the ground.

.
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MrMoMo said:
Hmm... tried two different plugs, and eventually the spark started. Put the original plug back in and its fine now...

Time to mix some good gas and get cutting!!!

Thanks to everyone who had input to get me through this...
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If figured I would explain how it works since if I told you to keep cranking you would probably think I was being a Smar tass.


Glad it is back together and working.


:cheers:
 
D'Animal said:
Glad it is back together and working.
:cheers:
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:bang: Well, sorry to upset you, but it's FxxxED again. :bang:

Bought some Lucas synthetic 2-stroke oil (it was all I could find after going to 3 places). Mixed a fresh jug of fuel, a little high on the oil side (I normally use 40:1, this was probably more like 35 or 30:1)

I let it idle for about 5 minutes, then raised the idle a little for a few minutes. then let it idle again for a few minutes. Brought it up to about mid throttle a few times. Seemed to be working great. Made sure I had chain oil flowing, I did.

Started into the wood, cutting great. Only going about 1/2 throttle, so the cutting was slow. I cut a few small logs (<6"), letting it idle for a few minutes after every few cuts. Never took it to full throttle. After about 10 minutes it quit while it was idling. I started it up again and it idled fine. Cut a few more logs, let it idle - idled fine. Cut a few more logs. Again, nothing above about 1/2 throttle About 20 minutes in (repeating above), after a cut, about 1/4 throttle (no load, but clutch engaged) it quit like the chain brake snapped on, but it wasn't the chain brake.

Pulled the recoil. Not the re-coil
Pulled the clutch cover, Not the clutch
Pulled the muffler - piston is all the way down so I can't see the
side
Pulled the spark plug - it didn't break off.
Not a screw backed out from the oil pump jamming the clutch
Nothing interfering with the flywheel.


2 hours later, I still can't turn the crank.

I'm glad my labor is free, but its a pretty big piss off that I wasted all that time and money to get 20 minutes of cutting.

Only thing I can think is the tube that goes from the carb to the crank case must be plugged? I assume that's how it gets some lube oil?

SO.... My thought is to get another 365, so I have a parts saw.

D'Animal - being as un-biased as you can be - would you reccomend otherwise? Is a stihl easier/cheaper to re-build?
 
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It died at idle which is good.

Double check the coil and make sure it is not jambed into the flywheel.

If the implulse passage was plugged, it would be very hard to start, would not idle at all and only run wide open throttle.



The only thing that would cause it to lock up is one of the new bearings you installed.


Lets find out what is wrong with this before you buy another Husqvarna 365.
 
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