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- #21
Does that mean the gap in clip at 12 o’clock?
###HELP! Front CV shaft pulled out!!!### (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LR LC200
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- #23
When I took it out for the second time the clip was a bit chewed up. Looked at old c-clip on old cv shaft it was chewed up too….all has grade on it should clip move freely I.e. not held by grade?
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- #24
Grease
A little dab of red-n-tacky helps keep it in place while seating. If the c-clip is getting chewed up, seems it is catching. I’d put a dab of grease with it in the 12-o-clock position to pin it down, reseat the CV, and use a wood block to hit it a little harder.
But before you get to hitting it too hard, I’d have a look into the carrier to see if there’s any damage.
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- #27
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- #28
No damage to carrier on inside did chip hosing on outside trying to get it out, but not cracked under seal, just on rim… Can I remove the F’ing clip and be done? Just holds it in when you have the spindle pulled back, correct?
I wouldn’t remove the c-clip unless I was doing a trail repair. Line it, use a wood block and hit it good. It may help to have someone under there putting a little upward pressure at in the CV joint and holding shaft straight at the housing. It may just have a slight angle at the housing causing it to bind.
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- #30
Better but still a 1/8 in off from where it should be. Going to button it up and see if it falls into place when I drive it….. any major concern there?
If you’ve got the controls arm reconnected, I’d be tempted to jar it up and and down a couple of times at the CV joint. I’d say it’s just a little bound. I wouldn’t be surprised if you pushed up and the grease cup, and it seated.
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- #32
Ordered wrong tie-rod end after seeing that it needed to be replaced on passenger side and waiting on that before alignment. Have driven it a couple miles on a false start to shop. Still has not fully seated. What risk am I subjecting myself to by it not fully seating? Have trip to NC from FL in June and want to know what I’m dealing with…. Would the dif-side seal still be contacting enough to prevent leak or could that be an issue?
Is that damage to the housing? Is it interfering with the dust cover seating properly?
It might be worth giving a shout to @Taco2Cruiser for his take on it not seating.
It might be worth giving a shout to @Taco2Cruiser for his take on it not seating.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
That look fully seated. If it wasn’t, you would have a good leak when it spins and force spins it to the outside.
And yes, someone pried on the CV that didn’t know how to remove those. The c clip needs to be open side down. Few people know how to feel for it to knock a CV with little effort. So you see that a lot from when someone just beats on components.
The metal ring “protects” the inner CV axle seal. But by no means think that having it bent a bit will cause the seal to fail sooner. I see that from when someone doesn’t have the best removal and install of the CV, but that is not to say it can’t happen by other means.
If it was my truck, I’d reach in there with a flat head and small hammer and tap it to where it looked good. That metal protector is ever so slightly pressed into the inner shaft. In fact, using the word pressed is giving it more credit than due. So don’t hammer away, but the metal is so thin and flexible that it is easy to bend. Both to make it look like that, and to get it looking good again.
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- #35
Thanks to both of you!
The technique I used to get CV shaftit in and out was using a piece of bar stock to hit on the groove in the inner grease cup where it’s solid metal. The cast housing chipped from the bar stock pressing too hard on it while tapping it out. Confirmed the cracks in housing don’t travel under where the seal is so hoping I’m good there…. I tried with both the C-clip gap at the 12 and 6o’clock positions. This is as far as it would go in.
Is it possible that the diff side splined shaft is a little longer on the after market shaft and that is as far as it will go? If so, will straighten dust shield and call it good, otherwise will have to pull it and try again…..I have Taco2Cruiser’s work number will give you a call today, if you don’t mind….?
Lastly, I did notice that the taper on the diff side end of the CV shaft spline was not a beveled as the OEM one. That shouldn’t have anything to do with my issue though as it does engage fully when I push it in by hand….
