Help! Broken down on the side of the road...

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rmtannerjr

rmtannerjr

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Threads
3
Messages
52
Location
Central Louisiana
Okay 400k miles and she finally leaves me broken down. I'm not fixing this on the side of the road but would appreciate some help diagnosing

I am pulling a crop planter on a 16ft trailer maybe a 4500lb total load at most. All is good and at about 55mph it just slowly decreases and dash lights up. No shoulder so in the road I sit but I'm in the back woods of Mississippi so got towed out of the road. The ARB tow strap is excellent btw, very soft starts...

Truck cranks but will not start and run.

It started once but as soon as it went into drive it died.

No overheating, good oil pressure

Fuel sprayed me when I removed the hose from the filter under the good so I think it's getting fuel.

Spark seems to be there since it does barely fire every once in a whole

So I'm thinkin sensor. Crank sensor maybe?? Or air meter?

Any ideas

Thanks
 
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Had a 98 4Runner that would die in traffic from time to time. It always started back up, though. It was a dirty Mass Airflow Sensor for me. I cleaned it and never had another problem.
 
Sorry just all the lights that come on when you first turn the key. Just meant I knew the engine died but it was delayed so I was unsure if the engine was running or not until then

I hope it threw a code so I don't have to throw parts at it.

This is how it rewards me after installing the HIDs last night. Hmm wonder if that had anything to do with it? I've already driven 100 miles today so I doubt it
 
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Alternator maybe? Does it start every time you crank it without needing a jump?
 
I'll check my fuel pressure properly ASAP, got towed home about 30 miles with trailer attached.
I'll keep y'all updated
 
Lookin like a fuel pump so far. Definitely have spark, fuses are good, no fuel anymore at the filter. Gonna make sure I have power at the pump before ordering though.
 
The Gent said:
Uh oh, should I wait before sending you that P3.? BTW, if she gets a bad dreadful diagnosis, I can take those morimotos off your hands for ya!
Click to expand...

Yea I bet you can! Got a fuel pump just before Advance Auto closed but didn't bother getting into it tonight. Not sure about this Airtex brand but it's actually more expensive than the Denso they can order.

Not entirely sure this is the problem since I haven't actually tested the fuel pump relay which I hear can cause issues. Before I install it I will test power at the pump and apply 12 volts to the pump.

Oh and I don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing, but a quick (1/2 second)shot of starting fluid past the air meter and turn the truck over ruled out several possibilities when it fired up briefly.
 
coveboy said:
Alternator maybe? Does it start every time you crank it without needing a jump?
Click to expand...

Sorry I missed this earlier.

Battery and alternator are good, that yellowtop just keeps on crankin and alternator is just 70,000 miles young:)
 
Had something similar happen on a 25-mile drive to work in my 2000 UZJ at 140k or so.

Had spark and fuel but would not start. Replaced fuel filter, still nothing.

Opened air box to see a HOLE in the paper filter. Peeked at the MAF, and it had a tiny piece of the filter lodged on the sensor wire. Removed and started right up!

A mouse had found his way into the fender and crawled into the airbox, where he chewed on the paper filter to make a nest. No telling how long it took for a piece to find the sensor.

Moral of the story: when checking the three basics of combustion, don't neglect to check the MAF!
 
This maybe totally but, I had my cummins diesel on the free way and an o-ring on the fuel injector broke and I lost my power steering and all other hydraulic functions. I also had to get it towed. Symptoms sound some what similar. But that's just my 2 cents.
 
CEL on ? Pull any codes?
 
I didn't have a code reader but need one. I do have a cel so i'll get it read just for fun. But my trusty tester said I was getting voltage at the pump. Dropped the tank, put the new pump in and reinstalled. Fired right up!

It's official. Stock fuel pumps are good for roughly 400,650 miles.

Just a few tips for the DIYer, drain the tank BEFORE dropping it or at least have a helper when you don't. Still not as bad as a transmission since the bottom was flat. Oh and clean under ther before starting also.

I did see an access panel that looked to be under the middle seats. I didn't want to pull the carpet to see since the tank drops so easily.

3 hour job with several mishaps, if tank was empty and clean 1.5-2 max

Thanks for the suggestions
 
Glad you're back in business.
 
bamachem said:
Had something similar happen on a 25-mile drive to work in my 2000 UZJ at 140k or so.

Had spark and fuel but would not start. Replaced fuel filter, still nothing.

Opened air box to see a HOLE in the paper filter. Peeked at the MAF, and it had a tiny piece of the filter lodged on the sensor wire. Removed and started right up!

A mouse had found his way into the fender and crawled into the airbox, where he chewed on the paper filter to make a nest. No telling how long it took for a piece to find the sensor.

Moral of the story: when checking the three basics of combustion, don't neglect to check the MAF!
Click to expand...

I agree, first thing I did was CRC the MAF. I had a mouse chew two wires that disabled my m3 last year. They can do some damage.
 
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