help any ideas what happened to 2F engine?

[owlridge]

was driving fj45 low kms 120 000kms 1982 2F, oil pressure dropped, heard ticking, then shut off motor, tried to restart and heard a slight grind when wanting to turn over, it was turning over but then would slow, grind down, towed home, pulled the oil pan and found a couple small small pieces of hard shiny compressed metal on the opposite side of the oil drain plug, attach is picture of size of metal pieces, maybe 3 to 5 little mouse turd size pieces. When looking underneath the vehicle see a very dry first cylinder conrod, dont know if this is normal or not, everything else looks all oil and clean as a whistle,

Oil was clean as can be and filled perfectly on the stick. No white smoke and no water in the oil.

Any ideas what might have happened/where to go now?

I was letting my friend post the thread for me last week in order to get to this stage. attached is the previous pictures and comments about my 2f problems. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/280700-help-any-ideas-what-happened-2f-engine.html

I have now removed the bearing cover from the 1 cyl and it has some heat score and little bit of compressed metal(tiny tiny pieces) I have not removed the bearing and have no clue as to what my next step is? How do I remove the bearing? and should I be removing the bearing? is this worth fixing on a LOW low kms engine?

 

[Poser]

Welcome.





The bearing should be in the connecting rod cap, not stuck to the crankshaft.


The fact that the #1 connecting rod was ‘dry’ is indicative of it being very warm and cooking the oil off of it.

Post up some pictures of the #1 crankshaft throw after you remove the bearing, if you can.

 

[owlridge]

how do i remove the connecting rod cap?

 

[Pin_Head]

how do i remove the connecting rod cap?

Same way you removed the one you have in your hand in the picture.

The bearing is still stuck on the crank journal. Try tapping against the little "tabs" with a hammer and chisel. The tabs fit into the slots in the bearing cap to prevent the bearing from turning.

 

[owlridge]

sorry for all the lame ?s but all I c is a shiny half moon bearing that pulls out and seems to be attached with some springs or?. it has a small crack on the 1 side and a bit of a heat score or metal grind. When i try and pull the piece off it feels like they are attached by springs?

thanks, and please help me save my engine

 

[Southeast Overland]

I should wait for someone to post who actually knows what they are doing - but - when I removed my bearings they lined up perfectly with the cap and popped right out. It looks like you spun a bearing. The 'spring' effect is part of the half-circle bearing stuck.

 

[fireflyr]

I think if you tap the connecting rod away from the crank shaft the bearings will probably fall out. Make sure you use a phenalic block as a buffer so you don't mess up the threads. You can accomplish the same thing by rotating the crank a couple degrees. I agree with the above answer that you lost lubrication to #1 and seized the bearing. If your oil pump failed you'll find more damage as you disassemble the engine. Good luck.

 

[Poser]

please help me save my engine

You get to remove your engine and have it worked on at a machine shop.

They may be able to save the crank, depending on how tore up it is under the bearing.

 

[amaurer]

sorry for all the lame ?s but all I c is a shiny half moon bearing that pulls out and seems to be attached with some springs or?. it has a small crack on the 1 side and a bit of a heat score or metal grind. When i try and pull the piece off it feels like they are attached by springs?

thanks, and please help me save my engine

I should wait for someone to post who actually knows what they are doing - but - when I removed my bearings they lined up perfectly with the cap and popped right out. It looks like you spun a bearing. The 'spring' effect is part of the half-circle bearing stuck.

Agree with eventhough. A good bearing is actually a little bit wider than the crank journal - you give them a little press into the bearing cap which forces them into the proper shape - this also means that they should come away inside the bearing cap when you remove it, and that bad things are afoot if they stick to the crank like that.

My guess is that the springy feeling you get is parts of the bearing that have been welded to the crankshaft and are partially pulled off of the bearing shell. When you get that bearing off (and you'll need to), you'll find that the crankshaft has been damaged and will need attention of some sort. If you're lucky, like come-here-and-buy-me-a-lotto-ticket lucky, it might not be so bad and you can touch up the crank yourself with some emery cloth... however I think its looking like you're already past that point and the crankshaft (and engine) will need to come out of the truck.

To answer your original question - the next step is to get that bearing off and review the damage, as poser has said. No science for removal of trashed bearings - just pull.

Sorry dude.

 

[Mark W]

you burned the bearing... does not seem to have spun... the tab on the bearing is not wiped out and the back of the bearing is not damaged... sounds like it is melted and seized to the crank.... look at others too... particularly #5 and #6 rod bearings...


The cause... lack of oil pressure... due to insufficient oil volume to the bearings.


Mark...