HEJ43, or something.... (1 Viewer)

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what is an HEJ43, you ask... i will explain.

earlier this year i finished and shipped an FJ40 resto that i did for a good friend, boltonski. the years of working 'together over the phone' on his truck was an excellent learning experience, and his patience, flexibility, and creativity made working with him an inspiration to try wild things with my own personal 40 restoration.

my first plan was to do a 2FE-H55 drivetrain and a basic tear down and rebuild back to a semi-stock truck. so i started collecting parts with that goal in mind. later, a local 80 went for sale at a very reasonable price, and i though it would be cool to put the 80 axles under the 40. then i caught the diesel bug and decided to look for a toyota diesel. now the 'while i am in there' syndrome is full blown, so plans have ballooned into something perhaps foolishly ambitious - stretched 40 body on a shortened 80 frame with an isuzu 4HE1T engine. hey, pioneers are just fools who succeed, right?

so i will start with the engine since that is probably the most exotic part of this build. as i said earlier, i was looking for a toyota diesel. i considered a 1HZ, then switched to the 1HD-F, heard the FTs were better, and even considered a 1HD-FTE. well, after 8-10 months of looking, i realized that spending $10k on the motor i wanted, or $5k for a motor that was good, but not quite what i wanted just didnt seem like a good plan. i started looking into the 4BD1T and 4BD2T engines out of an Isuzu NPR/GM3500, which turned out to be a pretty solid option. cheap, easy to rebuild, and theres a guy out there already making an adapter for a toyota bell housing. unfortunately, i found that the BD motors were terribly difficult to find in a descent and complete condition. i was expecting to need a truck to get parts from and i couldnt find one in buildable condition in a scrap yard. i dont have the space to part out a complete NPR, and people seem to think they are worth $5K+. no bueno.

so, after continued searching and some dreaming, and a compelling thread in the diesel section from astr, i started looking for the 4HE1T. this is a 4.75L 4 cylinder diesel that is far more common than the 4BD1T, and a lot more powerful than either the BD1 or 2. the HE is a direct injection engine with semi-electronic controls and an odd geartrain that puts the starter facing aft, so it is not exactly the easiest engine to modify, but i was able to find a shop that had a complete truck that would let me take EVERYTHING i wanted, all for one low, low price.

my current thinking is to build an adapter to go to a chevy bell housing to ranger overdrive to H55F. the engine is built for best fuel consumption at 1500-1800 RPM, and my goal is to match that range to highway speed. so, i need to make an adapter that will either keep the isuzu starter and move it counter clockwise to the bottom of the flywheel housing, or adapt another reverse rotation starter that is smaller, but has enough power to turn the heavy diesel. the engine produces max torque, 380 ft-lbs, at about 1800 RPM, which should be well more than plenty to keep the truck rolling. peak power is about 190 horses in the 2500-2700 RPM range, so there is plenty of room to work if i can keep my gearing low. the combo i describe will give me an overdrive of about .62:1 and a 10 speed transmission to get there.

more to come, but here is a teaser...
diesel powah, mud size.jpg
 
That's cool man, I'm a fan. Hard to name though! It's somewhere between a HJ43 and a HZJ43 but not quite.
 
frame shortening

ok, diving right in...

my goal was to shorten the frame by about 10 inches in the middle. obviously i dont want to cut the frame where the suspension attaches, so i had to cut the frame where it tapered. this, obviously, makes for some dimensional challenges. i was able to figure out a spot where i could cut the frame and the shortened pieces would intersect close enough that i could temporarily weld the frame back together.
temporary frame stitch, mud size.jpg
 
i tried to come up with a way of filling the gap to give me some strength in the frame. nothing made a whole lot of sense, and i didnt want it to look goofy. i decided the right thing to do was to just trim down the frame and box in what i had with a new piece of steel. you can see them above, more images coming.

what i did was have a pair of 3/16" channels bent up to box in the frame the same way toyota did it with the original 1/8" frame. i figured out an angle that would cover up the sections that had to be cut and then i drew up a cut line to trim the frame again.

my trims and boxing coincided with the transmission crossmember mount, so that had to go.
trimming frame, mud size.jpg
laying out the trim, mud size.jpg
making space, transmission bracket removal, mud size.jpg
 
apparently mud doesnt want my images rotated... :rolleyes:

anyway, after i got everything trimmed down, it was time to grind and clean off all the goop and rust.

i know the truck is going to sit for a while between when i cut off the rust and when i would finally get paint on the frame, so i sprayed down the bare sections that would be covered by new metal with some weldable primer. $40 a can. :eek: it had better do SOMETHING. it does weld through surprisingly nicely. i guess that makes me think it is worth doing...
rust ground off, bare steel primed, mud size.jpg
both sides prepared, mud size.jpg
 
when it was all said and done, i shortened the frame about 10.5". not bad for the first time frame cuts.

my advice to those who do this, just be sure you measure more times than you think you need. i measured lengthwise on each side and then to set points across the frame. it took about an hour of measuring and adjusting to get it right. and when i say right, i was able to match it exactly.
 
I gotta be honest, when I saw those first pics I was really having trouble grasping how you were going to make that work. But, it turned out great. Good job.
 
thanks gents!

i didnt fish plate mostly because i had never heard of that before... :-D

after banging on it trying to figure out a way to do it, i just figured i might as well copy what toyota did on the frame originally. if you look at the stock frame, it is two c-channels that are just welded together along the top and bottom seam/overlap. so, on the capped channel, i welded along the top/bottom edges to attach to the original frame steel, and then the cover piece is welded on all edges to both the original frame and the new steel. the vertical welds are not on the same plane, so that should help keep things strong. and since the new frame sections are 3/16", 50% thicker than the original frame steel, they should be plenty strong enough. i think i paid ~$80 for the for 8' of bent channels, which seemed like stupid-cheap to just fix the problem, and it KINDA looks like it is supposed to be that way...

in my short 'what is fish plating' search, it looks like something you would do to thicken/reinforce/stiffen an existing frame. should i be scabbing what i already have? it seems like that would be overkill considering what i added, and that i will be building a truck that came off of a frame that wasnt nearly this stout.... whats the story on fish plating?
 
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Fish plating is usually done to prevent a vertical shear, since your frame was welded top to bottom it provides a "seam" which can weaken and eventually fail.

I would throw some simple diamond fish plates on there to add some strength to the frame. Even if it might not be necessary it adds some peace of mind.
 
ah, i see. well, that would be an easy thing to add. i will put it on the short list. i am working on the body mounts now, so i will need to plate it before i burn in any new mounts on the back side of the frame.


thanks for the suggestions, i'd feel real dumb busting my frame if it can be prevented with an evening on the welder and $5 worth of scrap steel!
 
Yup, I would fish plate it. But I like how you did the cut and joined it back together, have not seen it done exactly like this yet. IMHO the rear link mount right behind where you made your cut is the best place to cut and shorten it. However, you have to remove the link bracket (obviously) and not so sure there is room to remove a full 10.5" in that location.

I used to drive one of those NPR forward cab Isuzu's in the early 90's for work. The motor performed pretty damn well and I liked the exhaust brake a lot. I recall the motor being pretty loud though.

cheers
 

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