Heavy Towing Question (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 6, 2009
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Location
Chicago, IL
Gents,

I just landed in this forum as a newbie - great info here! I have a quick question that I hope someone can help me with.

I am considering purchasing a slightly used 2009 LC. I have a 26ft, 8000 lb boat/trailer combo. I currently pull this boat with a 2001 Suburban (without the auto-leveling suspension) and it squats when I hook them up. In looking at the 200-series LC, I see it's rated for 8500 lbs of towing. However, it does not have an auto-leveling rear suspension (like the LX570). I know the drivetrain can pull 8500 lbs. Does anyone have experience pulling this kind of weight on the 200-series and how was it?

Failing that, anyone know if there are air suspension kits available for these things (and installers in the Chicago area)?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I pull a much lighter trailer and my rear would drop quite a bit. I've since upgraded my suspension with OME. Trade off was losing the softer ride but that I can live with that.
 
Gents,

I just landed in this forum as a newbie - great info here! I have a quick question that I hope someone can help me with.

I am considering purchasing a slightly used 2009 LC. I have a 26ft, 8000 lb boat/trailer combo. I currently pull this boat with a 2001 Suburban (without the auto-leveling suspension) and it squats when I hook them up. In looking at the 200-series LC, I see it's rated for 8500 lbs of towing. However, it does not have an auto-leveling rear suspension (like the LX570). I know the drivetrain can pull 8500 lbs. Does anyone have experience pulling this kind of weight on the 200-series and how was it?

Failing that, anyone know if there are air suspension kits available for these things (and installers in the Chicago area)?

Thanks in advance for the help.

You could go with OME springs in a contast heavy load, but that would give you the "stink bug" look whenever your trailer is not connected. No one here in this section has installed airbags (not that I'm aware of at least), but over on LCCOOL.org there are a few aussies that have. I'd check over there to see whats available, or pop in your local off-road shop and see what they can do. I know it can be done, but no idea how or what equipment was used.

Oh, welcome!!!
 
Yes welcome!!!

I would consider the med-load springs for the rear, but you will have a bit of a stink bug look. If you want to negate some of that 'stink bug' look, you should also install the front OME springs and that would raise the whole LC up a bit, therefore helping the look a bit.

Also I would give ARB USA a call and explain to them your situation and see what they suggest.

Oh yeah...post pics!!
 
Brake Controller Location...

On a related note, anyone have a good idea where to mount a brake controller? I have a 18' flatbed (toy hauler) that I was hoping to tow (so I can finally sell my Tundra). I never thought about where to put the controller until I had the parts and was looking under the dash to find the factory harness. There just wasn't any obvious place to put the controller within reach of the driver.

For such a wide vehicle (relatively speaking), there isn't much room around the driver's knees. To the left of the steering wheel under the mirror button bank would get whacked getting in and out, there's an airbag under the steering wheel, and there wasn't much room to the right. No part of the top of the dash is flat, etc.

I have a Tekonsha P3 I was going to use, it's a bit bigger than the cheap units, but should be pretty flexible about orientation (as long as the front points mostly to the front).

Best I came up with was installing where the ash tray currently is. Anyone have a better or less invasive idea? A picture?
 
On a related note, anyone have a good idea where to mount a brake controller? I have a 18' flatbed (toy hauler) that I was hoping to tow (so I can finally sell my Tundra). I never thought about where to put the controller until I had the parts and was looking under the dash to find the factory harness. There just wasn't any obvious place to put the controller within reach of the driver.

For such a wide vehicle (relatively speaking), there isn't much room around the driver's knees. To the left of the steering wheel under the mirror button bank would get whacked getting in and out, there's an airbag under the steering wheel, and there wasn't much room to the right. No part of the top of the dash is flat, etc.

I have a Tekonsha P3 I was going to use, it's a bit bigger than the cheap units, but should be pretty flexible about orientation (as long as the front points mostly to the front).

Best I came up with was installing where the ash tray currently is. Anyone have a better or less invasive idea? A picture?

I have a few ideas. I don't know much about brake controllers, but I have a question: Why do you need one? I thought Class IV vehicles with a 7-pin hitch harness can supply brake power to your trailer? Can't you use a gyroscopic unit that measures how much brake force is needed based on your deceleration G's and does braking automatically when a +12V brake light signal is applied?



Option 1) You know where the leather knee pad is to the right of your right leg? There is space inside of that if you are good at modding.

Option 2) Under the drivers seat so you can reach between your legs to control the brake bias?

Option 3) On the center console to the right of your right leg there is a horizontal black plastic piece. Mount it on there, forward enough that the seat doesn't hit it when all the way forward.

Option 4) The ashtray would be doable -- but there is not a lot of space behind there. Pretty much the depth of the ash tray is about it.
 
I have a few ideas. I don't know much about brake controllers, but I have a question: Why do you need one? I thought Class IV vehicles with a 7-pin hitch harness can supply brake power to your trailer? Can't you use a gyroscopic unit that measures how much brake force is needed based on your deceleration G's and does braking automatically when a +12V brake light signal is applied?

The brake controller is either time delay (cheap) or has the gyro you mention so mounting orientation matters. Lighter trailers might have hydraulic surge brakes and not need a controller, heavier ones have electric brakes (mine does) and need a controller. The controller sends variable voltage to the trailer to say how hard to apply the brakes. You need to be able to adjust the gain to compensate for trailer weight - empty vs. loaded or for different trailers. In theory you also want it near the driver in case you need to manually apply the brakes if the trailer starts swaying (never happened to me, but...).

I'll take a look at some of the places you mentioned. I think it can be mounted nearly vertical (the older model was +/- 70 degrees), but it needs to be oriented along the long axis of the car for the electronic gyro to work (can't mount sideways on center tunnel).

Sadly the cheaper time delay controllers have almost no restrictions on mounting orientation, they just feel weird and stop inconsistently.
 
Welcome,I put air bags in my 80.It wont move down with my trailers. Mike
 
Thanks for the reply's. I'm considering the replacement springs though I think my short wife won't appreciate having to climb up even more.

Which air bags did you put in your 80? I might reach out to that company to see if they have bags for the 200.

No pix yet (as I haven't decided whether to purchase it) - sorry.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I'm considering the replacement springs though I think my short wife won't appreciate having to climb up even more.

Lol. My whole family is short. I'm the tallest of the lot at 5'5" and I thought my wife would comment about the extra hight. Nope, but my oldest daughter started to climb in, stopped, and said "Hey, what happened to the truck?" I just :D.
 
Hi Roamer,

I've fitted alot of airbag systems to the 200. The brand used are called PolyAirs. These slide inside your existing coil spring at the rear and then supplement it when under load. Work very well and with only 5psi in them, they do not affect ride quality. Takes about 30 mins to install and we used the 100 series rear bags that fitted very well in the 200.

These dont interfere with the KTSS and the only requirement is the air supply lines that feed the air bags are run carefully in split tubing and away from heat and sharp curves and objects.
 
Hi Roamer,

I've fitted alot of airbag systems to the 200. The brand used are called PolyAirs. These slide inside your existing coil spring at the rear and then supplement it when under load. Work very well and with only 5psi in them, they do not affect ride quality. Takes about 30 mins to install and we used the 100 series rear bags that fitted very well in the 200.

These dont interfere with the KTSS and the only requirement is the air supply lines that feed the air bags are run carefully in split tubing and away from heat and sharp curves and objects.

Got any pics?
 
I put the air bags inside my coil springs about 8 years ago they have been great.Do not keep them fully inflated when not towing also do not let them get under inflated.Put the fittings for the air in a place which is easy to check and you dont have to crawl under a wet cruiser to check.My brand is air-lift which is used in 18 wheelers. Mike
 
I tow a boat on a 32 foot double axle, quad disc brake trailer. The total towing weight of the package is 7,800lbs. I have not modified my suspension and I have had no trouble at all for short towing jobs of about 10-15 miles a shot.

Power is more than adequate. No unusual squat. I use a straight heavy duty hitch and ball. The only thing you will need to get is a longer than usual electric hook up as Toyota engineers put the plug hook up off to the side a bit.

I have not done long distance towing so I can't give you a read on that.

If you want to go for aftermarket suspenstion bits, by all means. But before spending the dosh, I would do some test runs with the stock set up. I think you will find it more than adequate.

Now the only thing really missing from the LC 200 as a tow vehicle is a transmission temperature gauge.

Good luck.
 

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