Heating up while climbing uphill (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 16, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
4
Location
woodland, ca
Hey everyone, I've spent several hours scanning forums for info on engine temp fluctuations. I'm going to perform a coolant flush today, but would like some additional advice. Last week I drove 900 miles with my 84' FJ60. At one point of the trip, I had to drive up a very steep section of freeway (Northbound portion of the 101, just past San Louis Obispo for those of you who are familiar with California). By the time I "summited," the gauge indicator had almost reached red. This occurred at night (maybe 75F at the time). The rest of the trip was problem free, even in 100 degree temps. I've noticed that every time my LC has to take on hills, the gauge reading increases, although never as significant as the aforementioned fluctuation. One more thing that may be worth mentioning; I drove the LC for the first time in a month or so several weeks back. I turned on the AC, and after like 5 miles of driving in very hot conditions, the rig almost overheated. I've read that when cars sit unused, carbon build up can accumulate, temporarily rising temps until regular use burns off the build up. Don't know if this is pseudo science or not, or if this is an attributable cause to the sudden temp rise.


Just about everything is stock (original 2f and H42); has a carb fan, and the fan clutch looks to be in good shape.
Should I consider replacing the Tstat? The coolant reservoir has the shi**y yellow coolant, so ill be flushing and replacing with Toyota red. Lastly, when I flush, should I do the heater core too? Hoping that clearing out the coolant will alleviate. It's an interesting problem in that it only really occurs when going uphill, aside from running the AC the one time. The cruiser is a creampuff and really hasn't gotten much use, so I'm trying to change that, while being proactive about any red flags.

Thanks in advance Mudders!
 
Flushing won't solve the problem. In fact no Toyota owner's manual on any of their cars recommends flushing the cooling system. Just drain and refill. Flushing won't hurt anything but it also won't help anything.

The temperature gauge in the FJ60 is notoriously unreliable. Nothing it shows can be taken seriously as fact. While your engine may have gotten hot climbing that grade, there's no way to be certain if the stock gauge was your only reference.

Climbing long grades can overwhelm any cooling system. The cooling system can keep the engine within operating limits on the flats, but once the long haul up the hill is in progress, it can't keep up and the coolant temperature continues to rise.

The number one component in the cooling system that can improve cooling performance is the radiator. If yours is old, it's not cooling as efficiently as it did when it was new.
 
Flushing won't solve the problem. In fact no Toyota owner's manual on any of their cars recommends flushing the cooling system. Just drain and refill. Flushing won't hurt anything but it also won't help anything.

The temperature gauge in the FJ60 is notoriously unreliable. Nothing it shows can be taken seriously as fact. While your engine may have gotten hot climbing that grade, there's no way to be certain if the stock gauge was your only reference.

Climbing long grades can overwhelm any cooling system. The cooling system can keep the engine within operating limits on the flats, but once the long haul up the hill is in progress, it can't keep up and the coolant temperature continues to rise.

The number one component in the cooling system that can improve cooling performance is the radiator. If yours is old, it's not cooling as efficiently as it did when it was new.
Thanks for the advice! I hear you. I just don't want to mix the coolant I have in the rig currently with a different color coolant product and harm the engine. I would avoid changing the coolant type altogether if it were not for the fact that the current stuff sucks. I keep reading horror stories about the cheap yellow fluid and how victims of engine damage wished they had used the original green or toyota red.
Do you have any expereince with aftermarket radiators? I assume originals that are in good shape are nearly impossible to come by. Thanks again OSS!
 
If I were to buy a new radiator right now I’d get the copper/brass 4-row radiator from CityRacer. I’m not saying you definitely need a new radiator, just sharing this option. It’s also sold out but you might email to ask about restock plans.

 
If I were to buy a new radiator right now I’d get the copper/brass 4-row radiator from CityRacer. I’m not saying you definitely need a new radiator, just sharing this option. It’s also sold out but you might email to ask about restock plans.

Thanks ntdb! I'll look into these.
 
Sometimes a little piece of crap in your carb can cause a lean mixture. Go up hill it partially blocks an orphace. point it downhill and shut off the engine and it moves away So you’re back to normal until the next steep up hill.
 
How old is the fan clutch? Can you hear it start to roar when the temp gauge goes over half?
I need to look through the service records I have to determine the age. I've only had this rig for a few years. I can't remember whether the fan was audible or not. I was so fixated on the temp gauge. I'll listen to that next time I go uphill. I'm taking it to the Sierras this week.
 
Also, if the fuel gauge spikes at the same time the temperature gauge does - that's not a real overheat but an electrical issue
 
Both. Definitely a 60 problem too. The 60 and 62 gauges are identical except for the dial face and needle
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom