heater control valve location (1 Viewer)

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Jan 22, 2005
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would someone be kind enough to tell me where the heater control valve is located on the LX. I'm trying to troubleshoot the climate control issue and based upon some threards, am trying to rule out the possiblity of a bad heater control valve.
more over, is there a way to check the proper function for the valve to tell if it's ok or not.
thnx.
 
No response in 12 years? Ok den... I’ll give you another try.

My front heater doesn’t seem to get very warm when engine temp is up to normal. Wonder if control valve is opening like I would check on my 80 series.
 
The warm air temp seems fine coming thru top vents but it is much cooler coming thru lower vents at feet. ?
 
I am currently driving on the interstate at 75 miles an hour with the foot open with h I am currently driving on the interstate at 75 miles an hour with the foot open with heat on and no heat.

????
 
Once again... like Julian said, check your coolant level and make sure the system is burped. Went through this on a customers car a week ago to find out he was almost a gallon low on coolant (still working on that issue). Then check to make sure the hot coolant is reaching the heater core (drivers side coolant hose to heater core should be hot).

After that we can look at another culprit.
 
I do have a very slow radiator leak but I to keep coolant level up.

The coolant hose to heater core are you referring to the heater tea?

Also I do feel heat out of the top vents just not the bottom
 
I do have a very slow radiator leak but I to keep coolant level up.

The coolant hose to heater core are you referring to the heater tea?

Also I do feel heat out of the top vents just not the bottom
Yes, the heater T line.

Regardless what you feel we need to start at the basics to eliminate our options.
 
The hot heater T line is warm. The upper radiator hose is warm but the lower hose is not at all.

I did try to make cheese squeezing vigorously the two radiator hoses.
 
Again, burp it and see if you can get the heat to go through the core, if you can’t get it through then you will have to flush it out. Remember that the system will be pressurised if it has been running. Put all heaters to hot (rear/front) with the fans off, have it parked on an incline(front end up) remove the radiator cap and run it until the thermostat opens, I apply light throttle from under the hood(approx 1500 rpm) the coolant level might rise and then drop so it is a good idea to have some coolant mix to hand. Then check level over the next few days when the vehicle is cold. Get your radiator leak sorted, not worth risking.
 
I will try burping again as you describe

I do plan to replace radiator and fan clutch before spring
 
No it’s not. I feel moving air normally but just cool not even warm. I just opened vent with temp gauge to hot and fan speed off. The air at feet felt nice and warm for about 15 sevonf

Both heater Ts felt like the same temp
 
Keep doing it until the thermostat opens or you hear the fan start to roar, hold the revs up to 1500rpm and try squeezing the top hose. These engines are hard to burp as there isn’t much height difference that is why a incline is a good idea. If you cannot get it to work then you will have to look at a circulation issue.
 
I am currently having heat issues. In regards to burping I understand parking on an incline, but what hoses are being and squeezed and why?
 
I squeeze the top hose like a pump to give extra circulation, it might be through boredom and it gives me something to do but I find it gives extra movement across the radiator, so it works like a extra pump.
 
After driving all day I pull up in drive way and right before turning engine off I hear a faint gurgling sound while sitting in truck. Sounds like it is right under shifter/console.
 
Does high pressure on radiator hoses mean thermostat isn’t opening?
 

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