Headlight Tab Repair

[Chris Lynch]

I AM OPEN TO ALL LEGITIMATE SUGGESTIONS.

I have a 2002 Lexus LX470 with 130,000 miles on the odometer. Looking for a solution to broken headlight mounting tabs. Had a front end fender bender and I am interested in either a repair kit or a company that I can send mine to in order to have them repaired by someone who knows exactly what they are doing. I just cannot come out of pocket for a new set. Even 2nd hand sets seem to carry new-in-box prices. This truck is 16 years old, that is a tough sell for me. Love the truck though.

I have searched the forum and I have seen reference to a "tab repair" kit or something like that which is available for a different model Lexus. I have searched and I can't find it for the LX470. Does anyone know if this even exists and, if so, what the part number is?

Open to all suggestions.

Thanks!

 

[DirtDawg]

I think your best bet to retaining your current lamps and repairing the tabs is going to be fiberglass. A small fiberglass patch/repair kit should work just fine, usually found at most auto stores. It will bond to the plastic well and be strong enough to hold it well. Plus it is relatively easy to work with if you know what your doing.

 

[Patineto]

pictures are essential..

 

[DirtDawg]

pictures are essential..

Not really, just google LX470 headlight and you'll see what he's referencing. One mounting tab shown below, other two are on the bottom.

 

[Patineto]

Not really, just google LX470 headlight and you'll see what he's referencing. One mounting tab shown below, other two are on the bottom.

I ask because the location of the exact failure point determines the optimal method, gusset, splines, long bands, metal straps, zipties, endless what to do it

For sure "Super glue" is useless at least glued edge to edge, actually pretty much any type of glue is not going to last edge to edge, not even plastic welding and I have done a ton of it repairing motorcycle fairings (On the surface of the fairing work okay because the contact surface is very large) or if the headlight tap is broken on a "U" or a "H" shape, then again 5 minute epoxi will work well if you build it up

This is my favorite "Two minute" fix..

As you can see is not perfect (SLid under load, my fender repair was not perfect so it was actually helpful that it moved) but it will never come undone, If I have a few more supplies (or need) I will cut a small plate of Phenolic resin (like on circuit boards) is somehow flexible depending on the thickness, cut with scissors just fine and with a pass of heavy grid sand paper holds glue pretty well, personally I used bicycle chainring bolts if I have area expose on the two side of the break, very solid connection..

Anyway this is how el cheapo fix look from the back (only need to last three days until I got the new turn signal so I did not worry to much..

The lense got broken anyway so it was a Goner.

 

[DirtDawg]

While I agree there are many ways to skin this cat, I believe for the OPs sake that fiberglass is the go to. Doesn't matter what kind of break, it can be mended and it will hold permanently. I would stay away from epoxies and glues, as @Patineto stated, because too little surface area + forces from driving and bumps = bond failure.

On one set of headlights I built, the owner brought them to me with several mounting tabs broken but he stated "they're fine, it still holds the headlight on". Knowing that I could never retrofit a set of broken lights, I fixed all the tabs with fiberglass. 1 year later and I have no complaints from him, tabs are still holding great.

 

[Patineto]

While I agree there are many ways to skin this cat, I believe for the OPs sake that fiberglass is the go to. Doesn't matter what kind of break, it can be mended and it will hold permanently. I would stay away from epoxies and glues, as @Patineto stated, because too little surface area + forces from driving and bumps = bond failure.

On one set of headlights I built, the owner brought them to me with several mounting tabs broken but he stated "they're fine, it still holds the headlight on". Knowing that I could never retrofit a set of broken lights, I fixed all the tabs with fiberglass. 1 year later and I have no complaints from him, tabs are still holding great.

I like to think of "FIber glass" as a bonded gusset, since technically (actually in a more colloquial way) you can use old t-shirts/blue jeans, Hemp (phenolics are mostly made of canvas and some paper) but yes fiberglass and all the other fancy forms of weaves are great) and a "Resin" can be so many things this days even J&B weld with cows hair does wonders in a pinch, even a "Prepreg" is a self contained patch kit, a very expensive patch kit that needs to be terminally catalyze..

I think is more about the User and his abilities and the time available (Personally don't like to use, faster, rigid catalyzers) that the materials used, like why say down there "No es la Flecha, si no el indio"

 

[Travis351]

Plastic pipe strapping worked for me.

 

[Chris Lynch]

Plastic pipe strapping worked for me.

Plastic pipe strapping? Is this what you are talking about?

 

[Patineto]

Plastic pipe strapping? Is this what you are talking about?

View attachment 1319532

kindly disagree.

First the plastic as to much mold release, rollers on the mold much to smooth, chemically it will not hold epoxy, JB weld, super glue, whatever in a chemical bold level, maybe a silicon like E6000 a little by friction (if you course, "Spike" the surface)

Then the more rigid the brace the better it will works..

This is a very obscure material that sincerely I don't have a way to trace, I wish I did (Inline skate racing boots use a similar resin so the shoe can be reshape to the feet..

The one I have is a fiberglass/carbon blend, but is not a "Thermoset/Thermostable" resin is a made with a thermoplastic resin aka that it can be bend and form with heat (and reheat and re-heat again and again)

Hand thermoform seatstays protectors for my Nicolai M-pire downhill bicycle.

Never mind the fender, that was a really stupid idea.

In any case, this is maybe the Holy grail of repair bandaids, since you can bend it with just a heatgun so it totally fit the shape you are reinforcing/repairing/bracing and then use epoxy resin to bond it too the part, (very fast process, not messy, no glue spills.

All this as long as you have a "Edge" or a surface to the glue to hold on too, again the on that fix the part is the person the materials are just resources..

 

[LEX]

I'd look for an OEM single replacement or an after market set from eBay than trying to rig it. That's just me.

 

[Patineto]

I'd look for an OEM single replacement or an after market set from eBay than trying to rig it. That's just me.

As with bicycle inner tubes I always patch them and then keep them as back up.

The way I see it is much easier to gain experiences in a control environment like at your house or shop than the middle of the road, then again I understand my views are a little extreme.

 

[Chris Lynch]

Would the combination of plastic welding with the follow-up of a fiberglass patch for extra strength work?

I would still prefer to send these things to someone who actually knows what they are doing.

 

[Travis351]

Plastic pipe strapping? Is this what you are talking about?

View attachment 1319532

Yes, that is what I used, but after popping the hood to snap a pic, I noticed that I only used it for the turn signals. I used screws instead of glue. It's held since 2009.

 

[DirtDawg]

Would the combination of plastic welding with the follow-up of a fiberglass patch for extra strength work?

I would still prefer to send these things to someone who actually knows what they are doing.

Like I stated before, fiberglass alone will be enough. Been using it on headlight builds since 'nam. Whether I am reshaping the housing to fit a larger projector or repairing an existing part it's always held.