Headlight/Sidelight Removal -- Radiator Removal

[75PIG]

OK --- I give up --- don't wish to break this assembly. Below thread talks to sidelight removal and much force.

I have removed the signal light to gain access to a third bolt to remove the headlightassembly; to gain access to the radiator. In total I have removed three bolts and one screw which attaches the headlight to the sidelight. Is there another bolt? I would think that the headlight assembly should come out freely after removal of the three bolts.

Found this discussion on the Forum for the sidelight.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/91211-front-parking-clearance-lamp-removal.html#post1108768

I have not been able to find in the FSM nor good description on the forum (pictures are always great). I have included pictures.

See pics below and any assistence would be appreciated.

 

[75PIG]

And these pictures.

 

[75PIG]

Isthere a 4th bolt for the headlight assembly?
Does the sidelight assembly have to be removed 1st to gain access to a 4th bolt?

Look at the 4/30/06 Wussypup thread (provided). See the picture with sidelight removed. Is that a 4th bolt to be able to remove the headlight assembly.

I don't want to break this thing.

 

[75PIG]

Yep, got to the 4th bolt --- by the way, removal of the sidelight hurts. You do have to force it and in doing so, when it comes free, you get a knuckle into the sheetmetal. I went inside the signal light opening and worked it with my left hand inside while digging in with my fingers on the outside at the seam of the light and the body side panel. It kills your fingers.

Notice, the push fasteners were not even rusty! DS was dificult and PS was easy. Of course I started with the DS.

Anyway, I now have access to the horizontal radiator bolts. Need to remove the battery next and get to my vertical bolts to remove the radiator. I went with a new Toyota radiator from Cruiser Dan. Notice the kiddie pool below the rig to drain the radiator and engine. Worked very well.

See headlight/sidelight pictures for those, like me, who are as not as experienced and concerned with breaking these expensive parts.

Notice the dragonfly that has been getting a free ride on me --- don't think he cares too much. He was a little dry and lifeless!

 

[75PIG]

More pictures of the lights out of the way for the radiator removal.

 

[superjuice]

Looking to swap my radiator soon, found this thread with some good info, hth

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/377551-94-lc-radiator-swap-pics-comments.html

 

[kidglove13]

You do not need to remove the battery and tray to get at the rad bolt below it.

Save yourself the headache and drill like a 3/4 - 1 inch hole through the plastic battery tray just above the rad bolt and then you can access the bolt with some socket extensions

It is way easier that way, well at least I thought so

 

[75PIG]

What I have found out is that there are nuances/differences between years of Landcruisers. Mine is a 93 and that coupled with my newbie-ism, has made this job a little more difficult. I have a few more questions since some of the posts described above talk to no need to "move" the condensor in his 1996 LC.

Cary (Lifer - 1996 LC) states:

5) By following SUMOTOY's intstructions I did not have to move the condensor, remove any grill pieces or the headlights. All the parts you need to swap the earlier radiator for the later come with the radiator. It is a true bolt in.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/98832-1996-radiator-replacement-tips-comments.html

1993 FSM (pages EG-337 - EG-348) does not include anything about obstruction by the condensor to get the DS upper radiator bolt out. However, clearly it is in the way. The first pic, look in the center and see the rubber shock and metal washer. I cannot get this out w/o moving the condensor. If I have to move the condensor, do I remove it at the 2 shock absorber bolts (see pic #2).

Will I damage the connections on the condensor if I move it? I think I hve to move it because i do not know how I would get the bolt back in due to the clearance. Cannot see doing this w/o removing the battery tray. See pics below:


Superjuice - thanks for the thread. I found that one earlier. It is a great thread and guided my recipe for removal of the radiator. Here are some others posted by 96Beast:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-comments.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-comments.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-im-there.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...wap-flush.html


Kidglove - thought about drilling a hole and saw your earlier post. However, with the condensor issue, could not see this working for me.

More on next post:

 

[75PIG]

Other questions:

I have removed the bottom bolts (per the FSM). I would think that the shock absorber washers should come loose from the bracket. I still have the DS upper bolt in place due to the condensor issue to resolve (don't want to have to recharge the AC unit by creating a leak).

Once I get the upper horizontal radiator DS bolt out, do I just hammer on these lower washers to separate from the bracket?

Here are some additional pics:

 

[75PIG]

and more pics:

 

[75PIG]

The PS lower bracket does not move as I would have expected it to after removal of the lower bracket bolt. I can take a "hammer" to it but will wait until I get some input on the DS upper radiator bolt and condensor.

 

[arcteryx]

Remove the nuts on the side of the bracket attached to the rad. There are 2 on each side.

 

[75PIG]

Arcteryx -- Quite the family of LCs. I have the 1993 - the Rig, the 75 - Pig, and the 1972 - Jitney.

Thanks -- I had already loosened the AC condensor and was able to remove the upper DS radiator bolt. The two bottom brackets were "age" stuck and I rocked them back-and-forth to loosen and used a small hammer to break the bond of the washer to the bracket. The radiator is out.

Next I have to remove the water pump and then back-flush the block again to get more crap out of it. I had flushed with distilled water 4 times at 3 gallons each time. Should have gotten most of the antifreeze out of the engine. However.... it was a waste of $12 for the distilled water since I am ging to use an ordinary house water to increase pressure and get more "junk" out.

The "junk" looks like others have posted (e9999). Still don't understand how Toyota could get the "casting" material left behind in the engine. Not good QA/QC - however, the engine is still running after 189K so, must not be too bad.

More pictures: 1st is radiator and lower DS leak and upper PS leak. 2nd is up-close of DS lower leak. 3rd is junk from the metal tube from engine to upper radiator. I pulled a finger forward and got a bunch of more "grainey" stuff.

 

[finderscuba]

More pictures of the lights out of the way for the radiator removal.

I love the re-purposed kiddie pool!!