Head Gasket Replacement - List of Parts and "While in there" (1 Viewer)

[robnicko]

If the head is not warped (unlikely, but possible), you can still replace the valve seals, which is a really good idea, and which you cannot do without removing the cams. You won't ever do this unless you're
a) a glutton for punishment, or
b) going to remove the head. Which you just did.

This is really another false economy situation; you already have the head ready to replace the seals, the cost of doing it now, and with your mileage it should be done, is really less than it would be to do it later.

I would also recommend, for the sake of economy, since you have the fuel rail off, replacing the three O-rings on each injector, after you clean them. The procedure is in the service manual. You do not need to send them off to have them "professionally cleaned" unless you know you have a fuel delivery problem. If you don't think you do, you don't.
View attachment 3739633

23250B: 90301-07001 (O-ring)
23250C: 90480-13005 (grommet)
23291: 23291-14010 (insulator)
You need (6) of the above.

You also need (4) of the gaskets (crush washers) 90430-12026 for the fuel lines.

Also, you was mentioned that you didn't have the tools replace the crank nut. You can "rent' one for free at Advance Auto Parts. You'll need the 3/4" drive torque multiplier and torque wrench. You can remove the nut without a torque mulitplier or large impact wrench, if you're game. You still need a socket that'll fit the nut, and a breaker bar for it. Slip a steel tube over the bar that'll reach the ground, bypassing the frame, and support the far end on a wooden block. Raise the frame a couple of inches off the ground, position the tube so that it rests on the block and drop the frame back of the ground. The weight of the truck will break the nut loose. You'll still need the torque wrench to reinstall it, but that's far easier than removing it.

this is great advice, i did it when doing the HG on mine but also refreshed the injectors at home with new basket filters and ran lots of TB CLeaner through them with a 9V battery to pulse them. They turned out great after that

 

[Shipwreck]

It is probably too late for the OP's situation, since he already yanked the head, but here is a suggestion for those that may read this post in the future:
Before following any of the excellent advice given so far, I would send a sample of oil in to Blackstone to aid in getting a correct diagnosis of what is going on with your engine. Don't assume it is just the head gasket.

 

[GrassFedFarmer]

Wow... I asked for you all to let me have it, and you certinaly did. Much thanks.

First... this machine has abotu 197K miles on it. The engine was dropped in by previous owner. Head has not been gone through to my knowledge.

Second ... I have another red 80 with a blown engine. I actually got this Lexus as a replacement while I rebuilt that one. Then it blew the HG. So now I stopped the engine pull on the red 80 while I get his one up and going. So tool purchases are easier to justify. I'll be using everything twice.

Third ... sounds like the resounding "you should" here is I need to do a valve job. To be honest, I am actually trying to save. You all make the very obvious, and sound, recommendation to just bite my cheek and do it. So... I'd need to machine the surface (is that "decking"), valve seals, valve grind (?), and valve adjustments? The machine end of this new to me. I'll be a total idiot for this first one.

In my defence... I have read on this forum several accounts of heads just getting bolted back on with success. I figured even if it's slightly bent at rest, the torqueing back on straightens it all out. It's aluminium and it worked fine before I too it off. I just want to say I gave this a ton of thought before my original decision...I didn't just wave this off

On head bolts - my thinking was to not try and "save" here. Just get OEMs and suck it up. I didn't want to try to make the call on stretched bolts even with the instructions in the FSM. I apprecaite the suggestion jpoole of jsut ordering a few in case some did fail.

azusa - I do have access to straightedge... I would buy one give the second item above...I'll be doing this twice. Wire brushes are easy, so cleaning I'm not too worried about.

Azca - I've added PCV valve and grommet. I had already listed the fule filter, and will plan to notch (Otram tip).

Fj80oregon - I would absolutely have no issue adding in all the "cheap and easy" stuff... I suppose I'm looking for an assist on what those things are. I'm very grateful for your offer of an assist in tools, and I'm assuming, in brain scraping. I really appreciate it.

Malleus - You've laid it all out pretty well. On the head bolts, I'm just swapping out. Since I'm now leaning to go in for machining, I'd dissasseble intakes and clean it all up. Thanks for the tip on the Carbon Off. I also like the rebuild kit for the PS pump. Appreciate the bolts and nuts pics. I've added fuel injector rubbers and crush washers.

BTLSHP - I have also considered making my own but I see there are some out there so I might be spared my embarassing welding.

baldilocks - I appreciate the sentiment, but the farmers I know are not tyipcally "just make it work" type of people. They, and I hope I, often do a better job that a mechanic and will spend all they have to "get it right". It is often that farmers, myself included, do not have the luxury of idle cash. So, we must make tradeoffs. I fee that sometimes this comes across as "cheap" or, in the worst of assumptions, "lazy". Neither is true of course, but the nuance is lost on the spectator. I really appreciate the offer of an assist on the wrench. Thank you.

robnicko - I like that idea... easy(ier) for me to do it at home, and I gain some experience. Great suggestion.

To everyone, I appreciate all the great advise, and I take the follwoing away:
- I'm now seriosuly considering taking the head in. You've all made very good points. I'll have to look around, and see what this would cost. As some of you alluded to, I have limited resources, but it seems to me the dollars put into a valve job would be a wise investment.
- A full radiator replacement? Struggeling to see what the invesment is here.
- I had not really considered anyting on the fuel side of things. I appreciate all the injector suggestions.
- I have updated my spreadsheet if any of you are that kind of "sick". I thought this might be useful for someone else out there in the universe at some point.

TLR - I'm considering a valve job and machining. I've added a bunch to my list. It's getting 'spensive and I may have to make some tradeoffs.

Gratefully,

GrassFedFarmer

 

[Malleus]

this is great advice, i did it when doing the HG on mine but also refreshed the injectors at home with new basket filters and ran lots of TB CLeaner through them with a 9V battery to pulse them. They turned out great after that

I just removed the baskets, cleaned them with gasoline and put them back in. Maybe I got lucky they cleaned up. They were dirty, but came clean pretty quick.

 

[calokie]

Wow... I asked for you all to let me have it, and you certinaly did. Much thanks.

First... this machine has abotu 197K miles on it. The engine was dropped in by previous owner. Head has not been gone through to my knowledge.

Second ... I have another red 80 with a blown engine. I actually got this Lexus as a replacement while I rebuilt that one. Then it blew the HG. So now I stopped the engine pull on the red 80 while I get his one up and going. So tool purchases are easier to justify. I'll be using everything twice.

Third ... sounds like the resounding "you should" here is I need to do a valve job. To be honest, I am actually trying to save. You all make the very obvious, and sound, recommendation to just bite my cheek and do it. So... I'd need to machine the surface (is that "decking"), valve seals, valve grind (?), and valve adjustments? The machine end of this new to me. I'll be a total idiot for this first one.

In my defence... I have read on this forum several accounts of heads just getting bolted back on with success. I figured even if it's slightly bent at rest, the torqueing back on straightens it all out. It's aluminium and it worked fine before I too it off. I just want to say I gave this a ton of thought before my original decision...I didn't just wave this off

On head bolts - my thinking was to not try and "save" here. Just get OEMs and suck it up. I didn't want to try to make the call on stretched bolts even with the instructions in the FSM. I apprecaite the suggestion jpoole of jsut ordering a few in case some did fail.

azusa - I do have access to straightedge... I would buy one give the second item above...I'll be doing this twice. Wire brushes are easy, so cleaning I'm not too worried about.

Azca - I've added PCV valve and grommet. I had already listed the fule filter, and will plan to notch (Otram tip).

Fj80oregon - I would absolutely have no issue adding in all the "cheap and easy" stuff... I suppose I'm looking for an assist on what those things are. I'm very grateful for your offer of an assist in tools, and I'm assuming, in brain scraping. I really appreciate it.

Malleus - You've laid it all out pretty well. On the head bolts, I'm just swapping out. Since I'm now leaning to go in for machining, I'd dissasseble intakes and clean it all up. Thanks for the tip on the Carbon Off. I also like the rebuild kit for the PS pump. Appreciate the bolts and nuts pics. I've added fuel injector rubbers and crush washers.

BTLSHP - I have also considered making my own but I see there are some out there so I might be spared my embarassing welding.

baldilocks - I appreciate the sentiment, but the farmers I know are not tyipcally "just make it work" type of people. They, and I hope I, often do a better job that a mechanic and will spend all they have to "get it right". It is often that farmers, myself included, do not have the luxury of idle cash. So, we must make tradeoffs. I fee that sometimes this comes across as "cheap" or, in the worst of assumptions, "lazy". Neither is true of course, but the nuance is lost on the spectator. I really appreciate the offer of an assist on the wrench. Thank you.

robnicko - I like that idea... easy(ier) for me to do it at home, and I gain some experience. Great suggestion.

To everyone, I appreciate all the great advise, and I take the follwoing away:
- I'm now seriosuly considering taking the head in. You've all made very good points. I'll have to look around, and see what this would cost. As some of you alluded to, I have limited resources, but it seems to me the dollars put into a valve job would be a wise investment.
- A full radiator replacement? Struggeling to see what the invesment is here.
- I had not really considered anyting on the fuel side of things. I appreciate all the injector suggestions.
- I have updated my spreadsheet if any of you are that kind of "sick". I thought this might be useful for someone else out there in the universe at some point.

TLR - I'm considering a valve job and machining. I've added a bunch to my list. It's getting 'spensive and I may have to make some tradeoffs.

Gratefully,

GrassFedFarmer

GrassFed
How many Miles was on the replacement engine?

I'm posting the following comment as empirical knowledge that's know thought the 1FZ-FE community, also to invite responses from those who are confused and in disbelief .
On Average.... the 1fzfe is know to blow head gaskets in the 220,000-260,000 mile range (give or take 20,000 miles). Someone will soon chime bragging about having over 300,000 miles on a stock head gasket (without completely knowing the history of their used 3 owner vehicle )

 

[effjay80]

So my 210K 94 1FZFE is now at machine shop on receiving end of PREVENTIVE head gasket job. Truck was running perfectly, oil analysis Blackstone reports stellar, but absolutely no question the gasket was showing signs of deterioration when the head came off the block. It would've gone at some point up the road.

 

[BTLSHP]

GrassFed
How many Miles was on the replacement engine?

I'm posting the following comment as empirical knowledge that's know thought the 1FZ-FE community, also to invite responses from those who are confused and in disbelief .
On Average.... the 1fzfe is know to blow head gaskets in the 220,000-260,000 mile range (give or take 20,000 miles). Someone will soon chime bragging about having over 300,000 miles on a stock head gasket (without completely knowing the history of their used 3 owner vehicle )

Now you are really scaring me. 235k miles.....

 

[calokie]

So my 210K 94 1FZFE is now at machine shop on receiving end of PREVENTIVE head gasket job. Truck was running perfectly, oil analysis Blackstone reports stellar, but absolutely no question the gasket was showing signs of deterioration when the head came off the block. It would've gone at some point up the road.

smart call on preemptive HG maintenance.
My guess is the 1fzfe HG “end of lifespan” is caused by thermal cycling of the 2 materials with unlike CTE (Coeficiency Thermal Expansion)
However… the fact that Toyota used cast iron block with an Au head is actually great design, means in most cases you can just replace the HG and be good for another 250,000ish miles. Thats a very reliable engine.

Sad thing is, most people are buying used 80s on the market with 225,000 miles then dumping their life savings into modifications and expecting zero engine issues

 

[calokie]

Now you are really scaring me. 235k miles.....

I thought the HG already gave up?

 

[BTLSHP]

smart call on preemptive HG maintenance.
My guess is the 1fzfe HG “end of lifespan” is caused by thermal cycling of the 2 materials with unlike CTE (Coeficiency Thermal Expansion)
However… the fact that Toyota used cast iron block with an Au head is actually great design, means in most cases you can just replace the HG and be good for another 250,000ish miles. Thats a very reliable engine.

Sad thing is, most people are buying used 80s on the market with 225,000 miles then dumping their life savings into modifications and expecting zero engine issues

Ugh! Mechanic told us not to preemptively replace HG at 235k miles. And we got so far into the thing for there stuff.

 

[Malleus]

Wow... I asked for you all to let me have it, and you certinaly did. Much thanks.

First... this machine has abotu 197K miles on it. The engine was dropped in by previous owner. Head has not been gone through to my knowledge.

Second ... I have another red 80 with a blown engine. I actually got this Lexus as a replacement while I rebuilt that one. Then it blew the HG. So now I stopped the engine pull on the red 80 while I get his one up and going. So tool purchases are easier to justify. I'll be using everything twice.

Third ... sounds like the resounding "you should" here is I need to do a valve job. To be honest, I am actually trying to save. You all make the very obvious, and sound, recommendation to just bite my cheek and do it. So... I'd need to machine the surface (is that "decking"), valve seals, valve grind (?), and valve adjustments? The machine end of this new to me. I'll be a total idiot for this first one.

In my defence... I have read on this forum several accounts of heads just getting bolted back on with success. I figured even if it's slightly bent at rest, the torqueing back on straightens it all out. It's aluminium and it worked fine before I too it off. I just want to say I gave this a ton of thought before my original decision...I didn't just wave this off

On head bolts - my thinking was to not try and "save" here. Just get OEMs and suck it up. I didn't want to try to make the call on stretched bolts even with the instructions in the FSM. I apprecaite the suggestion jpoole of jsut ordering a few in case some did fail.

azusa - I do have access to straightedge... I would buy one give the second item above...I'll be doing this twice. Wire brushes are easy, so cleaning I'm not too worried about.

Azca - I've added PCV valve and grommet. I had already listed the fule filter, and will plan to notch (Otram tip).

Fj80oregon - I would absolutely have no issue adding in all the "cheap and easy" stuff... I suppose I'm looking for an assist on what those things are. I'm very grateful for your offer of an assist in tools, and I'm assuming, in brain scraping. I really appreciate it.

Malleus - You've laid it all out pretty well. On the head bolts, I'm just swapping out. Since I'm now leaning to go in for machining, I'd dissasseble intakes and clean it all up. Thanks for the tip on the Carbon Off. I also like the rebuild kit for the PS pump. Appreciate the bolts and nuts pics. I've added fuel injector rubbers and crush washers.

BTLSHP - I have also considered making my own but I see there are some out there so I might be spared my embarassing welding.

baldilocks - I appreciate the sentiment, but the farmers I know are not tyipcally "just make it work" type of people. They, and I hope I, often do a better job that a mechanic and will spend all they have to "get it right". It is often that farmers, myself included, do not have the luxury of idle cash. So, we must make tradeoffs. I fee that sometimes this comes across as "cheap" or, in the worst of assumptions, "lazy". Neither is true of course, but the nuance is lost on the spectator. I really appreciate the offer of an assist on the wrench. Thank you.

robnicko - I like that idea... easy(ier) for me to do it at home, and I gain some experience. Great suggestion.

To everyone, I appreciate all the great advise, and I take the follwoing away:
- I'm now seriosuly considering taking the head in. You've all made very good points. I'll have to look around, and see what this would cost. As some of you alluded to, I have limited resources, but it seems to me the dollars put into a valve job would be a wise investment.
- A full radiator replacement? Struggeling to see what the invesment is here.
- I had not really considered anyting on the fuel side of things. I appreciate all the injector suggestions.
- I have updated my spreadsheet if any of you are that kind of "sick". I thought this might be useful for someone else out there in the universe at some point.

TLR - I'm considering a valve job and machining. I've added a bunch to my list. It's getting 'spensive and I may have to make some tradeoffs.

Gratefully,

GrassFedFarmer

Just reread your post. A couple of thoughts:
1) Yes, "decking" the head (which is usually the description of cutting the block, not the head) is machining the head flat.

2) No, you cannot flatten the head by torqueing the head bolts. You can warp it that way, though.

3) There is no valve adjustment per se on this head (see my SBC comment in point 4). The valve clearance is set by the shims under the springs. Unless you have a seriously worn shim, or cam, you reuse it/them (the shims) when you reassemble the head. If your cam is worn, no amount of shimming is going to fix it.

4) You can absolutely reuse head bolts. Toyota recommends this in the service manual. A lot of people try to use SBC experience to rebuild this engine and it doesn't translate from one platform to the other, in most cases. That's why you are best served by following the manual. That's also why I would not let a machine shop without 1FZ-FE experience work on my engine.

5) Yes, you can skip the valve seals and do that later, with the head in the truck, but honestly, you'll have so much money in this by the time you figure all the shop work to cut the head and grind the valves, you should be able to afford that, if you can afford the shop work. And most shops will put them in gratis; mine did.

6) Lastly, you should not skip the new O-rings on the injectors. You will likely damage them getting the injectors out to clean them, and you do not want to pull the intake again just to replace a cut O-ring. Buy (7) sets of O-rings, just in case you screw one up. You'll only do that once; after you've done it once, you'll know how it's done - lube with gasoline and twist a lot.