Head Gasket Replacement - List of Parts and "While in there" (1 Viewer)

[GrassFedFarmer]

Hello,

First, I have benefited so much from this site. It really was the reason I decided to buy my first 80 some 15 (?) years ago. So thanks to all of you. This is my firt post.

I have a 1997 Lexus that has a blown head gasekt. White cloud on starting, using coolant, ect. I've pulled the head and could see it was cyclinder 6. Now I'm at a bit of quandry. What parts to get and what should I do while I'm in there.

I've created a spreadsheet that lists each part, part number, cost, and source. I hope it is viewable by the internet...

A few notes:
- I broke a knock sensor on tear down, so I need one of those which is why I listed it.
- The heater valve is junk and so I'm replacing that too. I'm having some trouble sourcing the hoses though.
- I had a hard time finding the exact nuts for the exhaust manifold.
- I'd like to get into the oil cooler and clean it and put in new gaskets.
- I'm not going to do the main seal and oil pump gasket. I'd like to, but I don't have a way to get that nut off easily.
- I'm not doing a PHH replacement...looks like it was done by previous owner and I see Breeze constant torque clamps there.
- I've left the intake manifold on the head since I'm not machining. I have no plans to get in there.
- I have not pulled the fuel rail or injectors.

I'm not planning on doing a valve job. It did overheat due to a failed engine coolant temp sensor failure, but I got it home and parked, replaced the sensor. I did drive it for a week or so until I started noticing the signs of the blown head gasket.

I'm going to wrap the ERG, not delete. I have emissions here.

I have a lot of residue arund the power steering pump... is that power steering fluid leaking or the oil pump (or main seal)?

I'm very open to suggestions, so if I'm way off, please be sure to let me have it.

Gratefully,

GrassFedFarmer

 

[calokie]

How many miles on the 80 when the HG gave up the ghost?
Replace your: front crank seal, Harmonic Balancer/Crank Pulley, Radiator, radiator hoses, water pump, oil pump seal (front of engine behind crank pulley), power steering pump and O-Ring, Timing chain cover seals (leaks oil near the power steering pump) And anything else that's made with rubber not mentioned, Rubber has a 10 year working life.

 

[jpoole]

The valve stem seals should be replaced as part of this work unless they were recently replaced. If the head has more than 100k on it I'd also go ahead and have a machine shop do the headwork for you including cleaning, valve job, testing, etc.

The head bolts are torque to yield. You may get away with reusing them but it's also possible, maybe even likely, that one or more bolts will fail during install. Best bet is to replace them all but if you are looking to minimize spend I'd still order a few new ones and use the new ones during install. This will give you a few used spares that you can swap in for any bolts that stretch out/fail during the torque procedure.

There are a few common leaks in the PS pump area. Beyond ones mentioned above the timing chain cover often leaks below the distributor in the seam between block/cover. This is not easily replaced/resealed with the engine in place and while the leak there is typically pretty minimal I'd consider cleaning and attempting an external seal while you have access. I've read of folks having success with this approach on the forum though I've not tried it. I'd guess chances of an external seal working are not great but it could be an easy thing to try.

Beyond the above you basically want to replace all rubber items you can get your hands on

 

[azusa]

Do you own or have access to a straight edge, wire wheel to clean gasket off engine block?

 

[Azca]

PCV valve and grommet, fuel filter (make sure to notch for future easier removal), all vacuum hoses and any hoses on the driver side of the block. Check the wire harness at the EGR for heat damage, repair as needed and wrap with insulation.

Is the brake booster original or old? Spendy for preventative maintenance but, it will never be easier to pull again, unless you rebuild the engine.

You also have it apart this far, why not do the injectors, o-rings and injector wire connector replacements?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Hello,

First, I have benefited so much from this site. It really was the reason I decided to buy my first 80 some 15 (?) years ago. So thanks to all of you. This is my firt post.

I have a 1997 Lexus that has a blown head gasekt. White cloud on starting, using coolant, ect. I've pulled the head and could see it was cyclinder 6. Now I'm at a bit of quandry. What parts to get and what should I do while I'm in there.

I've created a spreadsheet that lists each part, part number, cost, and source. I hope it is viewable by the internet...

A few notes:
- I broke a knock sensor on tear down, so I need one of those which is why I listed it.
- The heater valve is junk and so I'm replacing that too. I'm having some trouble sourcing the hoses though.
- I had a hard time finding the exact nuts for the exhaust manifold.
- I'd like to get into the oil cooler and clean it and put in new gaskets.
- I'm not going to do the main seal and oil pump gasket. I'd like to, but I don't have a way to get that nut off easily.
- I'm not doing a PHH replacement...looks like it was done by previous owner and I see Breeze constant torque clamps there.
- I've left the intake manifold on the head since I'm not machining. I have no plans to get in there.
- I have not pulled the fuel rail or injectors.

I'm not planning on doing a valve job. It did overheat due to a failed engine coolant temp sensor failure, but I got it home and parked, replaced the sensor. I did drive it for a week or so until I started noticing the signs of the blown head gasket.

I'm going to wrap the ERG, not delete. I have emissions here.

I have a lot of residue arund the power steering pump... is that power steering fluid leaking or the oil pump (or main seal)?

I'm very open to suggestions, so if I'm way off, please be sure to let me have it.

Gratefully,

GrassFedFarmer

Welcome, so you’re going to take on a sizable project and not do it right way? Just curious why you would not replace all the cheep easy stuff that’s right there, your head is going to need to be machined a couple thousandths minimum. Your valve guide seals need replaced and the valves adjusted. Time and money spent now will cause you less pain later. Replace the main seal and harmonic balancer. Use Partsouq enter your vin and start adding parts to your cart.

 

[Malleus]

OK, so all that is good advice, and I did at least that when I replaced my son's head gasket in 2022. You have three choices:
1) do it the way a shop would - replace the gasket and be done;
2) replace everything that's easily accessible now that the head is off, and clean everything really well; or
3) something in between the two extremes.

If you're trying to save money, and you know you don't have any problems other than the ones you mentioned:

a) You absolutely need to verify your head deck and block are flat. It costs nothing but time, and if you skip this step, and the two surfaces aren't flat, you're going to do this job again. The block is likely OK, the head is likely warped.

b) If the head is warped beyond limits, you will have to disassemble it, or the machine shop will, in order to cut the head. It's false economy not to have the valves reground at this point, because the cost of going back to do it later is the same as the entire job you're doing now. Yes, you'll save the money on the valve job, but it'll cost you a head job to save that; it's not a deal. That's if the head is warped.

c) You must check the head bolts before reusing them. The procedure and limits are in the service manual. If they pass, reuse them. That's why the procedure exists.

d) You should absolutely clean the intake halves and throttle body of all the carbon build up in them. Carbon Off is the stuff to use, unless you're taking the head to a machine shop. They may have a hot tank (a commercial dishwasher with industrial cleaner in it) that can do the job; I'd use the Carbon Off and do it myself. You'll be glad you did. Buy a quart; you'll have plenty left over for later use.

e) Get a rebuild kit for the power steering pump, and replace the high pressure hose too; it's old and it leaks. Rock auto sells it (Rein) and I think it may be the OEM supplier to Toyota. It certainly looks like it to me.

I would only replace the brake booster if it's failed. There is no economy in replacing that if it still works, "just in case it may fail later". My 2¢.

Your exhaust header nuts are 90179- 10128 (replaces 90179-10037)

Toyota recommends you replace the studs too 90116-10169

You need (13) of both.

 

[Malleus]

If the head is not warped (unlikely, but possible), you can still replace the valve seals, which is a really good idea, and which you cannot do without removing the cams. You won't ever do this unless you're
a) a glutton for punishment, or
b) going to remove the head. Which you just did.

This is really another false economy situation; you already have the head ready to replace the seals, the cost of doing it now, and with your mileage it should be done, is really less than it would be to do it later.

I would also recommend, for the sake of economy, since you have the fuel rail off, replacing the three O-rings on each injector, after you clean them. The procedure is in the service manual. You do not need to send them off to have them "professionally cleaned" unless you know you have a fuel delivery problem. If you don't think you do, you don't.

23250B: 90301-07001 (O-ring)
23250C: 90480-13005 (grommet)
23291: 23291-14010 (insulator)
You need (6) of the above.

You also need (4) of the gaskets (crush washers) 90430-12026 for the fuel lines.

Also, you was mentioned that you didn't have the tools replace the crank nut. You can "rent' one for free at Advance Auto Parts. You'll need the 3/4" drive torque multiplier and torque wrench. You can remove the nut without a torque mulitplier or large impact wrench, if you're game. You still need a socket that'll fit the nut, and a breaker bar for it. Slip a steel tube over the bar that'll reach the ground, bypassing the frame, and support the far end on a wooden block. Raise the frame a couple of inches off the ground, position the tube so that it rests on the block and drop the frame back of the ground. The weight of the truck will break the nut loose. You'll still need the torque wrench to reinstall it, but that's far easier than removing it.

 

[BTLSHP]

You are in a different spot than I was. My harmonic balancer failed. I know when it failed from an odd sensation at idle, about 400 miles later we saw that the outer ring was 1/3 of the way off and the belts looked odd.

It is expensive. I made a cheap tool out of steel stock from Home Depot. It is worth getting out of the way given the age of our cars and the cost of it really coming apart.

 

[Malleus]

As far as buying parts is concerned, if your order is larger than $50, you need to buy from Dave Stedman. If it's less, or you need parts sooner, buy them from your local dealer or an online dealer like Ourisman in Richmond, VA or Olathe in Kansas.

Your dealer can get anything that's in the regional warehouse next day. Ourisman ships usually within a day and since they also pull from the regional warehouse, you can usually get your order that week, at reduced prices, compared to your dealer. I buy wholesale from my dealer, and Ourisman's prices are always lower than theirs.

Stedman can beat anyone's prices.

 

[baldilocks]

To break the crank bolt loose: I have twice use a 30mm impact socket on a 1/2” drive breaker bar. Some have broken 1/2” and had to buy a 3/4” drive bar. Fit the socket and bar onto the bolt head then either tape or bungee the breaker bar up to the passenger side frame rail. Bump the key and the bolt should be loose.

There has been a lot of encouragement to spend a good deal of money in this thread but the fact is that if you can honestly tell yourself you will keep this 80 for the long haul then you will be kicking yourself in the future for not just doing all things suggested now.

If you truly are a “farmer” as your handle indicates, I understand the “just fix it good enough to get this hay off the ground and into the barn” mentality. That’s not ideal in this situation.

If you do end up removing the crank pulley and don’t have a torque wrench big enough to torque the bolt back in, contact me and we can see about you using mine. I’m up in the Battle Ground Area.

 

[Malleus]

I misread your comment about the residue around the power steering pump. It usually leaks at the rear, but there are seals at both ends, which are in the rebuild kit, 04446-60080. It's not possible to know what is leaking from a description, and a picture might not even tell the story. I'd say wash the front end and see where it comes back from, but you're past that now.

I'd think that if the leak was oil, you'd see it on the bottom edge of the cover. Also, leaking ATF, which is what's in your power steering system, is considerably thinner than oil, regardless of how long it's been on there and what it's picked up over time. If you can wipe it off, it's probably ATF; if you have to scrape it off, it's probably oil. ATF is red and oil isn't, but if it's been on there any length of time, it could have picked up some gnarly road stuff, so color may not help you identify it.

That's not a guaranteed, scientific analysis, but it's the best I can do from here.

 

[Malleus]

To break the crank bolt loose: I have twice use a 30mm impact socket on a 1/2” drive breaker bar. Some have broken 1/2” and had to buy a 3/4” drive bar. Fit the socket and bar onto the bolt head then either tape or bungee the breaker bar up to the passenger side frame rail. Bump the key and the bolt should be loose.

There has been a lot of encouragement to spend a good deal of money in this thread but the fact is that if you can honestly tell yourself you will keep this 80 for the long haul then you will be kicking yourself in the future for no just doing all things suggested now.

If you truly are a “farmer” as your handle indicates, I understand the “just fix it good enough to get this hay off the ground and into the barn” mentality. That’s not ideal in this situation.

If you do end up removing the crank pulley and don’t have a torque wrench big enough to torque the bolt back in, contact me and we can see about you using mine. I’m up in the Battle Ground Area.

I hesitated to recommend using the starter, because although I've never tried it, I've been told by some who have it didn't work for them.

I also didn't mention using an impact driver, because you have to remove the radiator to use one, and I didn't do that, so I didn't want to recommend a procedure I hadn't personally used.

I understand the OP's position about doing what's necessary and not what's nice, because parts cost money, and not everyone has the money to do what would generally be a good idea. If it was all just work, that'd be a different story, but some jobs need parts, so if you have limited funds, you have to do only what you can.

Personally, I'll never pull another head, unless I pull the drivetrain. The amount work required is the same, and you can get so much more done with the engine and transmission/transfer out. And I say that having the use of an engine bay troll.

 

[baldilocks]

At that point what prompted any action at all becomes a complete engine re-seal job minimum if not a “what the heck” rebuild. I’ve removed one 1fz head with the engine in frame. It wasn’t a picnic but certainly not what I’d call a nightmare.

Well, the starter method to remove the crank bolt worked for me twice. It’s worth a try for sure. Replacing broken tools or even buying a 3/4” breaker bar that we may never use again is cheaper than paying a shop.

Leaving an inch of space with a rag in-between the frame and breaker bar can offer some momentum to help break the crank bolt loose.

 

[calokie]

I hesitated to recommend using the starter, because although I've never tried it, I've been told by some who have it didn't work for them.

I also didn't mention using an impact driver, because you have to remove the radiator to use one, and I didn't do that, so I didn't want to recommend a procedure I hadn't personally used.

I understand the OP's position about doing what's necessary and not what's nice, because parts cost money, and not everyone has the money to do what would generally be a good idea. If it was all just work, that'd be a different story, but some jobs need parts, so if you have limited funds, you have to do only what you can.

Personally, I'll never pull another head, unless I pull the drivetrain. The amount work required is the same, and you can get so much more done with the engine and transmission/transfer out. And I say that having the use of an engine bay troll.

The Bump Start Method didn't work for me, nor did the Milwaukee Impact, I ended up buying a torque multiplier from Amazon. People will say its wasted money however combined with a crank holder tool it makes the job much safer and easier. FYI it took over 750 Ft pounds to break my crank bolt loose

 

[Malleus]

That static torque is real bite, especially when you combine it with rust.

 

[Fj80oregon]

I see your local to me, I have all the tools you need for this job and happy to lend them. Harmonic balancer holder, 3/4 drive 600ftlb torque wrench and have rebuilt almost 20 1fzfe’s over the last 5 years. Pm me if you want any assistance. Wes

 

[Fj80oregon]

The Bump Start Method didn't work for me, nor did the Milwaukee Impact, I ended up buying a torque multiplier from Amazon. People will say its wasted money however combined with a crank holder tool it makes the job much safer and easier. FYI it took over 750 Ft pounds to break my crank bolt loose

They get real stuck on some engines and others not an issue. I use a 1/2 Impact on a 20 gallon air tank and it zips them off pretty quick

 

[calokie]

They get real stuck on some engines and others not an issue. I use a 1/2 Impact on a 20 gallon air tank and it zips them off pretty quick

I later found the service records in the toyota database dating back to 2007 stating that the local Toyota dealer couldn't remove the crank bolt. @Fj80oregon almost up to 20 now? I'm keeping you on my extremely short list

 

[tmxmotorsports]

If not mentioned fuel injector wiring housings