The pitting is above the the piston rings. So, should I just replace the head, and not worry about the block?The pitting is common when the heads on these have been cracked for a while and driven that way. It's from the coolant/water that leaks into the cylinder while the motor is running. Some say the water mixes with diesel exhaust and creates sulphiric acid or something like that which then eats at the cylinder walls. As ugly as it looks, you might be fine to run it as it is. As long as the pitting does not extend down to where the rings travel. In fact, every 2LTE short block I've seen apart has at least some of that pitting from when the first gen head cracked. If your compression was good (easy clean starting) before you took the motor apart, then you're probably good to go. It's depressing, I know.
The pitting is above the the piston rings. So, should I just replace the head, and not worry about the block?
After the pre-HEAT, the cruiser always started on first turn. No misfires or rough idling. It's all original with all the emissions in place. Opened and cleaned the intake. It was clean already. 3 cylinder surfaces have no pitting. Sorry, I did not take pix of all cylinders, and I am out of town currently. I felt it had a difficult time accelerating to 40mph (slow on 1st and 2nd, 3rd onwards is good) but after that it was all good. Based on comments from other owners, it seems the slow acceleration is normal. My other car is a BMW, so, it's all in expectations. Then suddenly, over heating began. The reservoir coolant will begin to bubble in less than 10 min....perhaps 5 min. The only coolant leak was from the reservoir overflow. During a start after a overheating episode, the cruiser will start on first turn, it misfires and rough idles for Around a minute. Heavy white smoke during the rough idle. Then back to normal, smooth until it begins to overheat. Thank youCan you comment on how it started/ran before the cylinder head problem? That is what is most important. Or compression numbers if you had a test done.
The piston in cylinder one is at TDC in your picture, so I can't see the cylinder wall at all. Can you take a picture like this (but of the cylinders with the damage?)
View attachment 2108264
I ordered a head. Patiently waiting for its arrival.Sounds to me like the bottom end is fine. As horrible as it looks, I think you're good to continue using it. Throw a new updated cylinder head on there and keep on truck'in.
Misfire and rough idle after the head completely cracked is most likely from coolant entering the cylinders in a much greater volume than it had been initially.
Thanks for keeping me moving forward. I ordered the head with cam installed etc. It came from Melbourne, AU to Cincinnati, via customs in Los Angeles in 18 hours....wow. DHL delivered 1of2 boxes, with the head bolts, and gaskets last Wed. After many escalations, and an email to the DHL CEO (he responded), the head was delivered yesterday. The installation work will begin tonight.Any progress?
I got a new water pump, timing belt kit, a new fan clutch. The Intake is very clean already. The radiator was cleaned before, and it was also checked by a radiator shop. New hoses and drive belts. Thank youGreat advise, however I would stay completely away from scotch brite pads IMO.
I would also replace any coolant hoses, flush the block, heater core and a new water pump. Good time to test the fan clutch as well. Get that cooling system in shape
The new head is installed, the Cruiser is on the road again I drove it around 30 miles today, in traffic and at highway speeds. The temp gauge is constant at around 4/10ths. The engine is smoother and quieter than it was before (I could be imagining ). Pl let me know if you need the part#s of everything that was replaced. I got a complete head from Australia (unpack, and bolt on) for US$1000. Thanks for you help and guidance