Harmonic Balancer Nut install

[Rockiemosley]

I am in the final stages of re assembly on replacing the harmonic balancer in my 1985 FJ60. I have searched the boards but still can’t decide if I should locktite the big nut that holds the balancer on, and how much torque. I used a jack handle pipe on the wrench to get it off. I don’t have a torque wrench that goes high enough for the 120-150 ??? Pounds that I think it requires. I wonder if some locktite and 2 ugga-uggas on the jack handle extension is good or do I need to find a big daddy torque wrench? Any advice?

 

[OSS]

That’s a super critical nut. Don’t mess around or it might mess with you. Get a torque wrench.
Anything tightened that strong doesn’t need Loctite. If you Loctite it - it may never come off again.

 

[2mbb]

I agree that you should have a torque wrench that can handle that. 150 ft-lbs is a pretty common upper limit for a 1/2" drive wrench.

 

[bcolvin]

I think most parts stores have a big torque wrench in their loaner tools.

 

[Gimme a 60]

I think that you can also apply motor oil to the shaft where the brass key is... should make the balancer come off easier for the next time.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Back when I was busy Toyota of Texarkana installed ours. They didn’t torque it well and it ruined the crank on a low mileage engine,they took no responsibility and said it was a known problem . I bought a new long block from Toyota of Dallas.I’ve never had one come loose again in 40 years. That said torque it too spec !

 

[TheElegantFox]

I had mine walk off twice, thankfully was able to grab an OEM nut from Toyota, but the main cause for it walking was a wobbling harmonic balancer. As these HBs age, the rubber in the originals degrades and can develop wobble, I sourced a used one and it also walked. I fixed mine by getting a new OEM one, but they're currently NLA. There are some aftermarket options. I would verify you have a trued HB before getting everything torqued to spec and then only use about the largest torque wrench you can find and add a cheater bar to that. All the torque specs should be in the FSM.

Here's the thread where we diagnosed my issue: [3FE] Main crank pulley keeps walking, time for engine rebuild? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3fe-main-crank-pulley-keeps-walking-time-for-engine-rebuild.1272265/

 

[Spike Strip]

If you follow the FSM you don't need loctite.

If you can't measure the torque for whatever reason, get it as tight as you can (stand on the wrench if you have to), and a little blue loctite won't hurt anything.

This is a somewhat common issue because the FSM isn't followed.

Every time I change the oil, I check that nut.

 

[deaven]

After rebuilding my 2F in my 1985 FJ60, I had the pulley walk off the shaft after about 1500 trouble-free miles. I had used my impact wrench to install the nut, and during the hours of recovering the vehicle, I had plenty of time to not remember torquing the nut with a torque wrench, unfortunately.

The nut is somewhere along the highway, and the key was pulverized and ground into silvery goo. It wasn't fun, but it could have been way worse. I got a used replacement nut and key from CruiserParts, and thanks to this thread and other related threads, I chose the following course of action, which I'll characterize as FSM plus harmless voodoo:

1. Clean threads thoroughly, and oil lightly, also remember to smear oil on the underside of the nut flange that contacts the pulley.
2. Apply some blue threadlocker to the threads (voodoo #1).
3. Use web strapping around pulley, hooked to frame, to hold pulley in place while tightening nut to 144 ft-lb with an actual torque wrench.
4. Ponder the lack of a locking tab. Think a lot about how much it sucked to lose the first nut. Fabricate a locking plate from scrap, with 2 M10-1.5 bolts fitting 4-5 threads into the tapped puller holes in the pulley (voodoo #2).

Hey, I know the FSM is scripture, but a bit of voodoo can't hurt. Leaving this plus a few pics for others, since I benefit from this site all the time.