Hey guys,
I originally made this post because I was having issues doing a SIMPLE hardwire of a dash camera. So I figured id write the details down while they are still fresh in my head because I did wayyyy too much digging to find a stupid problem.
I hate messy cables and I think the dash cam is a no brainer for all the city driving in Florida I do. Under $100 insurance policy.
I mounted the camera behind the rearview mirror. I never seen it while driving.
Using Interior trim removal tools.
$5 on amazon.
They look like this
Very simply run a "dash camera hardwire kit" from the center of headliner towards the driver side, down the driver side "A" pillar. Then south down the door rubber door molding/ interior trim pieces.
Mine was a 10ft Mini USB to red (power) and black(ground) wires on the other end. There are two things inline
1. a 12v (truck)to 5v(camera) converter
2. 10 amp fuse
Hardwire kit looks like this.
Mine did not have that fuse looking thing at the end of the red wire. So I had to separately purchase this.
This fuse looking this is separately called a "Add-A-Fuse"
Looks like this. ATM Mini Blade.
If you end up piggy backing on one you put the original fuse in the bottom slot. and new fuse (aftermarket) in the top slot. I already had a 10amp fuse inline and put another 3amp fuse in the top slot. since I took an empty slot I didn't put anything in the bottom slot.
This is on my 2004 I had an empty slot. Put the Add a Fuse in it and closed the cover and was done! Super easy.
I used open slot 15
This fuse box is where I got my power. This fuse box is on the left side of the the driver side foot well. Take off the foot rest. and the plastic 1.5ft trim piece off. everything pulls. no tools required. There is a black plastic case over the fuses pictured below.
Important added note from later in the thread:
Add -A-Fuse plugs are orientataion specific. If you have it plugged in and get no power out of it it's probably because you have it plugged in backwards. Flip it around and point it in the opposite direction and plug it back in and it will work. This is because only one of the blade sockets for each fuse location is hot. The other socket is the load side - no power outputted. It matters which way you plug the Add -A-Fuse in.
I originally made this post because I was having issues doing a SIMPLE hardwire of a dash camera. So I figured id write the details down while they are still fresh in my head because I did wayyyy too much digging to find a stupid problem.
I hate messy cables and I think the dash cam is a no brainer for all the city driving in Florida I do. Under $100 insurance policy.
I mounted the camera behind the rearview mirror. I never seen it while driving.
Using Interior trim removal tools.
$5 on amazon.
They look like this
Very simply run a "dash camera hardwire kit" from the center of headliner towards the driver side, down the driver side "A" pillar. Then south down the door rubber door molding/ interior trim pieces.
Mine was a 10ft Mini USB to red (power) and black(ground) wires on the other end. There are two things inline
1. a 12v (truck)to 5v(camera) converter
2. 10 amp fuse
Hardwire kit looks like this.
Mine did not have that fuse looking thing at the end of the red wire. So I had to separately purchase this.
This fuse looking this is separately called a "Add-A-Fuse"
Looks like this. ATM Mini Blade.
If you end up piggy backing on one you put the original fuse in the bottom slot. and new fuse (aftermarket) in the top slot. I already had a 10amp fuse inline and put another 3amp fuse in the top slot. since I took an empty slot I didn't put anything in the bottom slot.
This is on my 2004 I had an empty slot. Put the Add a Fuse in it and closed the cover and was done! Super easy.
I used open slot 15
This fuse box is where I got my power. This fuse box is on the left side of the the driver side foot well. Take off the foot rest. and the plastic 1.5ft trim piece off. everything pulls. no tools required. There is a black plastic case over the fuses pictured below.
| 1 | PWR OUTLET | 15 | Power outlets |
| 2 | CIG | 15 | Cigarette lighter |
| 3 | ACC | 7.5 | Instrument panel light |
| 4 | AM1 | 7.5 | Multiport fuel injection system/Sequential multiport fuel injection system |
| 5 | DEFOG | 20 | Rear window defogger |
| 6 | AHC-B | 15 | Active height control suspension (AHC) |
| 7 | FUEL HTR | 20 | Fuel heater |
| 8 | POWER HTR | 7.5 | Power heater |
| 9 | AHC-IG | 20 | Active height control suspension (AHC) |
| 10 | EFI NO.2 | 10 | Emission control system |
| 10 | ECD NO.2 | 10 | Emission control system |
| 11 | GAUGE1 | 10 | Gauges and meters |
| 12 | ECU-IG1 | 10 | Multiport fuel injection system/Sequential multiport fuel injection system |
| 13 | ECU-B1 | 10 | Navigation system |
| 14 | DBL LOCK | 15 | Double lock system |
| 15 | BATT CHARGE | 30 | Trailer charging system |
| 16 | A/C | 15 | Air conditioning system |
| 17 | STOP | 15 | Stop lights |
| 18 | OBD-2 | 7.5 | On-board diagnosis system |
| 19 | IDEL UP | 7.5 | Idle-up system |
| 20 | LH SEAT | 30 | Power seat system |
| 21 | DOOR | 25 | Power door lock system, Power windows |
| 22 | SUN ROOF | 25 | Electronic moon roof |
| 23 | RR WIPER | 15 | Rear wiper system |
Important added note from later in the thread:
Add -A-Fuse plugs are orientataion specific. If you have it plugged in and get no power out of it it's probably because you have it plugged in backwards. Flip it around and point it in the opposite direction and plug it back in and it will work. This is because only one of the blade sockets for each fuse location is hot. The other socket is the load side - no power outputted. It matters which way you plug the Add -A-Fuse in.
Last edited:
