Hard Brake Lines - will napa work easily

[jgoldenman]

If this has been covered, please forgive me and point me to the correct thread. I've looked long and hard to no avail.

I'm wanting to replace hard and soft brake lines all around on a 1973 FJ40. The prebent stuff, while nice, is pricey. So, does NAPA, Advance Auto, or Autozone sell the correct sized (in diameter and length) preflaired brake lines that will bolt on without having to cut and flare any lines? Do they also have all the right fittings? Are there any other brake parts that should be replaced while I'm at it? Should the brake line unions be replaced?

I've read that lines that are a little too long can been bent or coiled to "fit" so they just have to be at least the required length. I also saw some info about the green lines that NAPA (and probably others) sell that is easier to bend.

If someone has done what I'm talking about, please reply. Part numbers would be awesome too if it's not too much to ask.

I'd just assume take this job to a shop as I'm a newbie in a big way. Has anyone gotten a complete brake line overhaul done in a shop? What did it cost and who would you recommend in NC.

Thank you greatly for any help.

 

[green40]

Take measurements of all the lines you want to do and hit Napa. Buy the lines that come closest to the lengths you need (longer). Buy a tube bender (they aren't much $20 or so)
Bring an old line with the fitting on it and they can match it up.
Easy job, don't waste your money on having a shop do it. If you are afraid to do
jobs like this sell the Cruiser now!

 

[Michael Hanson]

Most lines are fairly easily bent with a bender and a little time, dont get in a hurry. MIke

 

[Rigger]

Posts 2 and 3 both have good advice in them. And, to speak to your question, I bought pre-made lines from Napa and they are working fine. I looked at buying prebent lines, but in the end I bought straight ones and bent them myself. The Poly-Armor lines that Napa sells bend easily by hand without a bender. I used a bender in a few places.

I was really intimidated by the prospect of running my own lines, so I procrastinated like crazy. Finally, when I just plunged in and bent a few, I learned for myself how easy it is. But don't take my word for it; buy some and try it. Even if you completely screw up on a few of them, it is no big deal, because they are cheap. Think of it as the cost of tuition! And, as has been stated already, don't pay someone to do this job. Do it yourself and become one with your Cruiser!

Edit: I bought a few couplers from Napa, but I used old Toyota tee fittings that were cleaned up. I only needed two tees. You can also source the hoses (soft lines) from Napa or any other parts place. I'd recommend using as much new stuff as possible, so you end up with a clean and new system with new parts and new fluid.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Just learn how to double flare tube. It really is easy and a good skill to have around Land Cruisers.

Classic Tube sells coils of 3/16 line(Part # C3) and really nice 10mm x1.0 ferrule nuts(Part #ST8036) . You can get regular steel tube or stainless. The regular steel is more malleable and easier to flare.

Then you are not tied to a fixed length and can do what ever you want.

I do carry several lengths of the pre-flared stuff for trail repairs.

Just you you know it doesn't take that long, I did all of the lines on my FJ60 in a couple of hours. It's easier than you think.

The most important steps are to cut the tube with a tubing cutter, and then to de-burr perfectly prior to flaring.

 

[BB]

I just finished redoing the rear hard lines on my 72, and adding a FJ60 booster and master with a proportioning valve. New lines are not that hard to do. If you have the old lines, you can use them as a guide for making up the new ones - a coathanger can be used to bend the pattern too. On my first attempt, the cheap double flaring kit I had would not allow me to make a leak-free flare. I went to Sears and spent about $60 on a decent double flaring kit, and with that, the job was easy. A tubing bender is handy, but you can also use sockets, pipe, etc to bend the line around. Coolerman's brake line how to on this site is a good resource, the flaring info he presented was very helpful to me. A tubing cutter, a file to deburr the outside of the brake line, a reamer to clean up the inside of the line and a 10 mm flare nut wrench will also be useful tools for the job. Good Luck!

 

[jgray]

Another vote for learning to make your own brake lines... I bought a flaring tool when I did my rear disc brake conversion and added a proportioning valve under the hood... I had bent all my lines and put the correct ends on where needed... I think I messed up my first attempt at a double flare but after that its pretty easy and I'm using a cheap double flaring tool from Advance Auto parts ($35 IIRC)...

 

[Bill McC]

If you find your brake line nuts are smaller and or new ones from Napa are too big you will need to order 9mm line from SOR. Napa nor anywhere else won't have them.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

If you find your brake line nuts are smaller and or new ones from Napa are too big you will need to order 9mm line from SOR. Napa nor anywhere else won't have them.

Bill-Pretty sure that by 73, all Land Cruisers had gone to the 10mm ferrule nuts and 10 x 1.0mm threads.

One of the problems with the Napa lines and from similar places, is that while the threads on the nuts are correct, the flats on the nuts are 11mm. That means you have to carry 2 different flare wrenches. The Classic Tube Ferrule nuts I listed are perfect and a dead match for OEM Toyota.

If you are careful, you can reuse the old ferrule nuts, but new ones are $0.90 each so why nut just replace and have new?

 

[jgoldenman]

I stumbled upon another tread that adds a bit of info concerning the size of lines and fittings:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/241430-brake-line-tube-nuts-m10-x-1-0-size.html

I'm considering - sort of- ordering pre-bent lines from classic tube. The online price is $450 stainless - $90 for original equipment = $360 for oe. I noticed their .pdf catalog price is $225 for stainless and $180 for original equipment. Have they increased the price that much, or am i missing something. Wow. I might try and call em tomorrow.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I stumbled upon another tread that adds a bit of info concerning the size of lines and fittings:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/241430-brake-line-tube-nuts-m10-x-1-0-size.html

I'm considering - sort of- ordering pre-bent lines from classic tube. The online price is $450 stainless - $90 for original equipment = $360 for oe. I noticed their .pdf catalog price is $225 for stainless and $180 for original equipment. Have they increased the price that much, or am i missing something. Wow. I might try and call em tomorrow.

For $25 worth of tube and ferrule nuts, you can re-do an entire Land Cruiser worth of brake lines. Plus, you can route them the way you want, like over the top of springs and the like. This is a really good skill to have. Then you can have any line you want for the rest of time. Stainless is a waste of $$ in my opinion, unless you live in Ohio, or some similar rusty place. Even then, regular steel tube will last 10-15 years. Get a local to show you how to make brake lines, and go for it.

 

[TLCONE]

As mentioned above by someone, do it and be one with your Cruiser. It really is easy. I bought a cheap flaring tool from Harbor and did my entire cruiser. After 10 years I'm still using the flaring tool and am in the process of doing the rig again, I converted to FJ60 axles and 4 link. Also, the steel bends by hand, I've never used a bender.

 

[jgoldenman]

I stumbled upon another tread that adds a bit of info concerning the size of lines and fittings:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/241430-brake-line-tube-nuts-m10-x-1-0-size.html

I just realized that thread applies to 60 series wagons, so it probably doesn't apply to my 40.

Thanks for all the input.

Does anyone know the right dimensions I need to get for the 73 fj40? That is one of my hang ups, is getting the right size lines and nuts. Will napa's pre-flaired lines work? what size? I don't really know what size to get. Do the 3/16 preflaired lines from napa fit, do they have the right sized nuts? I guess I just don't want to get it wrong on brakes - ya know.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

What flaring tool does Mud like?
I have broken a few of these or found they do not hold the tubing well.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

HH-I have the Rigid flare tool and I use a die that came out of one of the cheap auto parts kits. It works great and is nicely made.

To Jgoldenman--I am virtually certain that a 73 will have 10 x 1.0 ferrule nuts, but you know what?-you can go outside and measure and then you will know. It isn't rocket science. 3/16 is the correct size tube. No one is going to be able to spoon feed you the lengths you need. Go and measure and buy the lengths that are closest, then bend to fit if that's your plan.

The Napa lines in the correct size can be made to work. I have used them before but they will not be perfect since you will having to adapt them to your needs. It is much better to make lines specifically to fit your truck. The other problem with the Napa lines, (actually it's an annoyance more than a problem) is that the flats of the ferrule nuts are 11mm, so you need an 11mm flare wrench. The flats on the Toyota nuts are 10mm.

There is no difference between the double flare on an FJ40 or 60 unless you have one of the early FJ40 with the 9mm fittings(I think the small ferrule nuts stopped in '69). My 97 uses the same sizes as well so it's a long term size convention for Toyota brake lines.

You are making this much harder than it is. Pull a line off your truck, go to Napa and match threads, bend into place to fit. You will learn more in 30 seconds than an entire day of typing on IH8MUD. Then find a local Cruiserhead who can show you how to make these lines using the part numbers I provided from Classic tube.