Hand brake won't disengage
- Thread starter snapaxle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Can you see if there is cable slack upstream of the bell cranks? If so, then it's a rusted bell crank. If not, it could be in the cabling or a stuck shoe.
- Thread starter
- #3
Ok, checked the cable, where it comes out of the underside of the vehicle one piece of the tube had been pulled out and wouldn't fit back in place without some help. So it is disengaged, but now loose as hell. It is going to be rusty I feel sure. Can't see a damn thing as everything is coated in ziebart crud.
Noob question I know but where is the bell crank, crawling around on 20 degree cement has caused a lack of brain function right now?
Noob question I know but where is the bell crank, crawling around on 20 degree cement has caused a lack of brain function right now?
Last edited:
I thought maybe it was frozen.
Sometimes water collects on the mechanism and turns to ice when the temperature drops.
The ice can preclude smooth motion of the cable, making it difficult to release the emergency brake.
Because I have had the emergency brake freeze "on" several times in other vehicles, I do not use the e brake when parking in freezing temperatures
Sometimes water collects on the mechanism and turns to ice when the temperature drops.
The ice can preclude smooth motion of the cable, making it difficult to release the emergency brake.
Because I have had the emergency brake freeze "on" several times in other vehicles, I do not use the e brake when parking in freezing temperatures
Last edited:
My entire handbrake assembly needs to be rebuilt. It's rusted up and if I put the brake on, it'll stay that way and make all sorts of funny noises while driving around. I'm sure that the shoe is toast too. You either have a rust issue or a moisture issue.
It's right at the rear inside of the brake assembly. Just follow the cable along the axle and it will hit the bell crank before going into the drum.
Good adjustment link pic with other links for adjustment: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/228915-e-brake-tightening.html#post3445810
Very easy to replace the whole rear cable assembly. I broke mine trying to adjust it (adjuster frozen, common issue) on a trip and found a dealer that had one. Replaced/adjusted it in camp in about 20 minutes.
If you've ever seen what a dinky little thing the tranny parking pawl is, and what can happen when one breaks...
If you've ever seen what a dinky little thing the tranny parking pawl is, and what can happen when one breaks...
I just replaced my rear rotors, shoes and pads. It's not hard at all. Ralph Hayes sent me everything I needed for around $400 and it took me two hours. One bell crank was frozen in the on position, so I had to beat it back and forth with a hammer and drift just to get the old rotor off. I sprayed it with corrosion block and forced it back and forth before it could finally move normally with the springs.
Sorry I didn't shoot pics...FSM and directions that came with the brake parts were very good. Rear facing shoes are the same and both fronts different for left and right. Everything else is pretty standard.
Sorry I didn't shoot pics...FSM and directions that came with the brake parts were very good. Rear facing shoes are the same and both fronts different for left and right. Everything else is pretty standard.
^ This. My procedure at every stop:
1) D>N
2) P-brake on.
3) Foot off brake, let p-brake take load
4) N>P
Do it a few times and it's just one fluid movement.
This way there is zero load on drive train while stopped. Americans are so used to the ease of 'P' that no one remembers the days of MT when you had to use P-brakes. A properly adjusted LC P-brake can easily hold the vehicle on any grade. Obviously, cant the front into the curb as an added measure of safety when off the trail.
The parking brake bellcrank is prone to rusting itself in place. Mine were both locked solid.
Its fairly easy to take it out, grind of the rust, refinish and replace along with new pins [available from stealer parts]. FSM for diagrams which will show how simple this job really is.
Its fairly easy to take it out, grind of the rust, refinish and replace along with new pins [available from stealer parts]. FSM for diagrams which will show how simple this job really is.
Last edited: