Had my cruiser checked out by Mcintosh Imports

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Met with Terri this morning and had him do a bumper to bumper evaluation. I'll def. be doing business with them again, very honest and took the time to explain everything to me so I could understand (I would barely consider myself mechanically inclined).

Found a few issues that kind of made me wish I had a mechanic look at everything before I signed the bill of sale :bang:.

Good news:

  • Little, to no rust, good body and frame
  • Suspension up to par
  • Brakes are good
  • Overall, good quality
  • Most issue on his page and half evaluation are simple, quick fixes even I could do (brake light, replace wheel bearings..)
Bad news

  • Front Birfields starting to leak. I told him I want to do the mini truck axle swap for the disc brakes. I'll be fine for awhile.
  • Ignition points worn
  • Blown Head Gasket :crybaby:
I asked that he do a compression test and here are the figures:

1 - 150
2 - 130
3 - 130
4 - 125
5 - 115
6 - 155

SO next thing I guess I'll be doing is having him fix the head. He said he watched a bubble of air move the whole length of the head along the gasket back to the last cylinder. Should I have him do a leak test also?

I want any and all issues resolved if the head is pulled...valves, springs, pins. What do you guys think?


Well it's not a big leak. 115 is not that bad but running on a blown headgasket is not healthy.

How about a second opinion? Why not check the compression yourself? Go buy a compression tester from Northern or Harbor freight. Say $30. Unhook the coil wire. Take out a spark plug and screw in the tester. Open the butterflies on the carb ( have someone press the gas pedal all the way down and then insert a long screwdriver to hold them open) Then crank the motor over 4 to 5 times and read and record. All the way fron to back.

It's not hard and goes a long way in knowing the condition of the engine.

I'm not saying the first opion is wrong but it's always nice to have a second.
 
High level quote is $800

$50 - gasket
$100ish - machine shop fee for the head
$630 - labor

Kind of what I expected, I asked about the valve job and he asked if the cruiser smokes (which it doesn't), he didn't feel it was necessary.

I think i'm going to skip the parade, not sure about those low speeds and getting the block too warm.

Thoughts on the quote?

As Micheal has stated. If your pulling the head off. Have the valves done. Including new stem seals.

That being said I'd have it shaved, new seals, valves done, have springs checked and shimmed, have it checked for cracks (magnafluxed) and have a Toyota head gasket and manifold gasket put on it.

Also while it's off have the machine shop redo the oil galley plug.


It's more money than your looking at but it's going to be a quality product.


What's the year and history of the cruiser? How many miles?
 
She'll be going in the shop first week or so in January. I'll make sure the valves are done as well.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
As Micheal has stated. If your pulling the head off. Have the valves done. Including new stem seals.

That being said I'd have it shaved, new seals, valves done, have springs checked and shimmed, have it checked for cracks (magnafluxed) and have a Toyota head gasket and manifold gasket put on it.

Also while it's off have the machine shop redo the oil galley plug.


It's more money than your looking at but it's going to be a quality product.


What's the year and history of the cruiser? How many miles?

X2 what was the determination that the gasket is blown? For a dry test the numbers don't look tooo bad. FYI, you can uses a compression tester to pressurize each cylinder to see if air is leaking out the valves (air coming out carb or exauste) or bubbles in radiator (head gasket). If its running good, not overheating, no coolant in oil...IMHO I would ajust the valves and drive it as is.
 
Low #5's typically seem to be an exhaust valve. I may be stubborn but I don't get a blown head gasket from a bubble running along the head... IMHO see if you can have a club member in the area help you run a compression check again ( wet and dry, valves adjusted properly, engine warm, all plugs out, good battery, etc).
 

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