h1 wheels with 37 Goodyear MTR's...??

[LilDave01]

This looks like it has already been beaten to death based on my searching, but I'm not finding too much real world, hands on info that isn't a sales pitch. Here goes.... (please be patient)
1. What is the least amount of lift to run the 37x12.50 and keep my flares....and not rub at full flex (I know bump stops can come into play here, but there's so many options.....forgive me for saying this, but I come from the Jeep world....I wanna keep this rig as low as I can)
2. Run the wheel adapters? (Which seem WAY high at 750....for what they are)......or get re-centered wheels?......or buy steel 16.5's and just don't air down below 15psi? (I rarely do air down anyways....and when I do, it's to about 15psi.....I'm not that hard core)
3. I understand my factory gearing will WORK.....but what is going to be the BEST overall gearing for a 37? 4.88? 5.29? Keep in mind, I will still drive this 75mph down the freeway....This will not be a trailer queen.
4. I'm already about to pull the trigger on a 1" BL.... So please keep that in mind when suggesting. Also, I don't mean to sound rude, but if you heard from a friend....of a friend....of your cousin....None of that applies here. Real world, hands on info only please!
P.S......I don't mind trimming a little in the wheel well areas, but my 80 is keeping it's flares! Lol.....Thanks a lot in advance for any info guys!

 

[LilDave01]

I also want to ask.....is there anybody out there reading this, that has hands on (or at least personally seen and very familiar with a rig) experience with running the 37x12.50r16.5 Goodyear MTR on a basic 16.5 wheel such as a Pro Comp steel wheel? Do you air down? If so, to what PSI? Have you rolled one off a bead?

I don't care that these tires are not as hard core off road as a Super Swamper IROK.......My rig will see mostly highway driving, second to that will be random trails/powerlines/overland stuff, and then some VERY light rock crawling..... So, in my opinion..... What I do, doesn't require a bogger/irok/bfg krawler

 

[cheddar bob]

I'm assuming you've got a set of 37x16.5 military goodyears. For what you're going to spend to get the 16.5s to work on the cruiser, you'd be better off with a completely different setup. I'm not even sure you can buy 16.5" wheels new anymore.

I ran into this issue with my K5 blazer I had a few years back. I bought it with 37x16.5 goodyear military retreads. I went to replace the tires and they were almost phased out back then. Went with a 17" setup and it worked out a lot better.

16.5" tires will be nearly impossible to find when in an emergency situation and you need a replacement.

 

[LilDave01]

No, I don't have any, but you can buy them by the stacks at an Army Depot not far from me.....They are dirt cheap is the reason I'm looking into it.

 

[86tuning]

Lots of guys running 37s. Nay has 37s with 4" lift but IIRC no flares and he did a bunch of trimming. Not sure what he did for bump stopping. Last I read, he's running interco trxus in that size and likes them for wheeling and snow etc.

 

[jfz80]

It has been beat to death but I dont see the sales pitch angle on most of the threads covering this. Usually i see someone stating what they got and how it works and rarely is it a vendor or anyone trying to make a profit from their response but


1) 3-3.5'' its not just bumpstops, backspacing will be key here too. You may get away with the set of OME HEAVY 2.5'' springs since youre looking at the 1' bl too 4'' seems to be the sweet spot for BS
2) 750 sounds steep... is that a 6 lug to 8 lug wheel adapter? Granted just a one time purchase but seems it defeats your cheap rubber motivation a bit. Id buy a set of 6 lug steel 16.5 rims if i were in your shoes.
3)well its an opinion but best for me with that setup would be 4.88 though most everyone will tell you 5.29. But since you say your gonna be driving it 75 id hate to be turning 3200 +/- rpm for a long time. Thought thats where the power is she'll be screaming and guzzling some fuel
4)oops not a question but a friend of a friend of my cousin said it will work. Ok kidding been running 37s since 07. The BL will help make room for the tires but now youve got a smaller target audience as there are tons of iterations of different spring combos across the members here but not as many different combos also mixed with the body lift. You may have luck perusing the BL threads seeing who is running what as well.

My experience: J rear (3.5') and 4'' slee front and run 3 different sets of 37s.
All on a 17x7.5'' wheel with 5'' backspacing so they were sucked in away from my flares at the expense of light rubbing on the frame in back and control arm up front. I could have added spacers but it didnt bother me. I am back on the same wheels now and may add a 1'' spacer though i no longer run with my flares. You should dig up some posts by ToolsRus and have a read. He will cover the flare wedge to trim in the rear to keep them in place as well as other good points. I think he had J's with a 2'' spacer so near 5'' up front.

From your description of use in your second post you may ask if you need or want the 37s or why.
If for looks then thats acceptable just saying it gets into more complicated territory when going 4'' of lift and higher. If your fine paying for pieces to make it perform closer to stock then have at it. Just saying if you could stay under 2.5'' lift where castor is easy and problems are few, couple that with a body lift and could only fit a 36? would you be just as pleased? I know it doesnt allow the discount rubber option but just a point to consider. Then again you could go 2'' BL as well

 

[LilDave01]

Great info!

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